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idle quality on 680cc's with ectune

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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 02:03 AM
  #1  
wolve's Avatar
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From: netherlands
Default idle quality on 680cc's with ectune

as the topictitle says,

i run 680's on my completely stock b18cR with a WAI and a 50-100 dry shot fuelled trough the ecu.
i know 680's are big for that but i plan on running e85 next season.

i'm a selflearned DIY tuner. streettuned my setup for afr and run a combined gsr/b16 timing map adjusted a little on the butt dyno.
once everything is together i'll head to a dyno to finetune the timing.

my question is:
ever since my install of the 680's my idle is lumpy as a cammed v8
now i tried adjusting the afr for better idle but emmisionstesting needs to be stoich (14.7 afr)

basicly, what tricks and tips are there for smooth idling 680's on stock b18cr

thnx in advance
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 07:28 AM
  #2  
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Never tuned injectors that large. I would hazard a guess that the duty cycle is to short for the injectors. Are they Saturated or Peak and Hold?

If they are Saturated the duty cycle may be too short and you may still be getting too much spray. A Peak and hold would probably work better with it's faster response time.

Can you post what the injector duty cycles your target AFR/idle are at.... to give us a reference point.

Last edited by GhostAccord; Nov 19, 2008 at 07:34 AM.
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 08:16 AM
  #3  
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you're doing something very wrong.

I've used everything from stock to 1000s without any issue.

You should try playing with the offset and battery voltage curves in the injector calibration. Be careful - if you make substantial changes to get idle right, you might have to re-tune high-vac <500mbar
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 12:56 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by GhostAccord
Never tuned injectors that large. I would hazard a guess that the duty cycle is to short for the injectors. Are they Saturated or Peak and Hold?

If they are Saturated the duty cycle may be too short and you may still be getting too much spray. A Peak and hold would probably work better with it's faster response time.

Can you post what the injector duty cycles your target AFR/idle are at.... to give us a reference point.
i'm by no way an experienced tuner and do not pretend to be, this raw tune was made on the fly to an event. 5min before we left i wired my new injectors in (680 precisions instead of 240 honda). i created a basemap so it would start up, and made adjustments while driving towards belgium with the laptop on my cousins lap.
after 15-20 min i was reasonably satisfied with my WOT portion of the map and part throttle needed for the 200 mile drive towards the event.
ignition part i took over from my previous tune i was driving on for about a year with no problems. ignition tuning was done with a combination of gsr and b16a maps and little adjustments done of of 3rd gear pulls timed on the stopwatch.
at the event i had about 5-10 min of laptop time to figure out why nitrous (dry 50 shot) was not working and to make a guestimated gamble what to run for timing and added fuel on the spray (because someone stole my laptop charger when they tryed to steal my car, but luckily i had a 0.20 ct kill switch they could not find )
after the event my car got back in the garage, so i did not fiddle alot with things to get idle right, but to be honest, i don't know where to fiddle so some pointers to what i'm doing wrong would be very nice,

because i'm a noob

p.s. times i ran that event are in my sig, totally stock b18cr+50 shot+street tires+unprepped landing strip+first time
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 05:50 AM
  #5  
wolve's Avatar
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From: netherlands
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Originally Posted by blundar
you're doing something very wrong.

I've used everything from stock to 1000s without any issue.

You should try playing with the offset and battery voltage curves in the injector calibration. Be careful - if you make substantial changes to get idle right, you might have to re-tune high-vac <500mbar
you guys rock!!!

and i'm a ****in moron

all this time i was under the impression that i was running precision 680 saturated injectors. after your recommendation i went too look up battery ofsetts of my injectors

http://injector-rehab.com/kbse/lag.htm

great site, so i looked up 680's value's....then suddenly i saw 2ohm resistance.....then i looked up stock honda obd1 is around 12-14ohm and peak and hold are around 2-3ohms.....

i got scared and confused at the same time, was i running peak and hold without resistors? if so then why is'nt my ecu fried?

found out i bought 650 high impendance precisions () and tried to run them in ectune with the battery offset tables from an 680 peak and hold precision ()

so all in all, i'm confident this will solve the issue, just dazzled that it did not substancially hurt performance seeing the 104mph on stock setup.


does anyone happen to know the battery offset value's for the precision 650's high impendance (saturated)????
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 09:05 AM
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You won't ever be able to plug in someone else's values. They'll get you close, but never exact. Experimentation is always best. Try unscrewing the power feed from the alternator to the main box on the passenger shock tower. Your voltage will drop a ton, fix it with offsets then reconnect + interpolate in the middle.
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