i am working (slowly) on an f2d swap in my civic hatch. the motor i am using is an f23a1 which is obd2 and i am converting it to obd1 so it will be (mostly) able to plug right into the harness i got (conversion harness for d15b vtec into ed hatch). i found a distributer from "94-96" accord f22. before i call this guy to ask about it i want to make sure it is the right one for converting the f23a1 to obd1. any help is appreciated. any links related to converting this motor or similar would be cool too. thanks for the help.

 

Yes thats a obd1 distributor you need

 

and i think it can only be from a 94 or 95 accord i think 96 is obd2 but i might be wrong

 

There are two different types of dizzies used in the 5th gen 94-95 OBD1 Accord (F22)
The OBD1 94-95 DX & LX use the TD-59U (TEC external coil) and
The OBD1 94-95 EX uses the D4J92-04 (Hitachi internal coil)

Both of these OBD1 Dizzies have the CKP, TDC & CYP sensors inside the distributor. Anything after 95 is OBD2 and IIRC they only have the TDC sensor in them.

I'm not even sure if any of the OBD1 F22 dizzies will bolt to the F23 head? Someone else will have to chime in with that information.

 

what about using the obd2 f23 distributor but putting obd1 plugs onto it.....i have it done on my hatch.....the motor is a obd2 gsr with the obd2 dizzy....but i had an adapter thing made to plug into the obd1 plug....it works for me....just a thought

 

yeh but the if i use the obd2 then i cant set the timing manually... or so i hear. i will be using a p28 and a stock civic harness. so i will need to set the timing manually, therefore i will need a obd1 dizzy. one thread i read on the swap the guy used his stock civic harness, chipped p28, and used a b18 dizzy, just said that the dizzy would go one with 2 bolts and the 3rd one didnt line up, but it worked. but that was on an obd1 f22 not an obd2 f23. so i am unsure. from what i have read up on it seems i need a 94-95 dizzy. but yeh that dude wanted 30 bucks for shipping so i said no thanks and went on searching. they are pretty hard to find though.

 

would the dizzy and injectors from an f22a4 work?

 

The F22A4 injectors will only work if you have a resistor box. F22A4 240cc injectors are low impedance (peak & hold) The F23 injectors are 240cc high impedance (saturated) So I guess it all depends on what you need to run with your Civic wire harness. I'm going to guess that you need the high impedance injectors...


The F22A4 Distributor is an OBD1 external coil distributor. If the civic harness is wired to include the TDC, CKP & CYP sensors in the Dizzy, then it should work. but I'm still not sure if it will bolt up to the F23 head or not.

 

cool thanks for the help ghost. the f23 injectors are obd2 are they not? so would i be better off splicing the obd2 injector clips into the stock civic harness and ruinning the stock obd2 injectors? that way i dont have to fool with the resistor box. from what i read the obd1 and obd2 injector clips are different. am i correct? i can check tonight after class either way. thanks alot for the help. imma get that f22 dizzy and see if it matches up.

 

Yes the F23 are OBD2. Do you have the original OBD1 injectors that came with your Civic? Those would could be 240cc as well and there would be no need for any injector clip modification if you can find them.

That seems to be what most people opt for. But if you are familiar with pinning connectors you could try to de-pin your injector connectors and swapping them. If that works it will save you a lot of time cutting & soldering the wires. Just de-pinned a few of mine and it's pretty easy. I'm not sure if the OBD1 pins are the same as the OBD2 pins. You could de-pin one wire from each connector and see if they are the same. If they are then Bob's your uncle. :thumbs-up :

 

i have never depinned anything, but there is a first time for everything. imma search it right now but are their any tutorials that you know of on de-pinning? i would like to not ef anything up. also i have some stock z6 injectors, would those work? cause if they would that would be perfect i wouldnt have to repin anything.

 

just read a post to d-series about repinning obd1 plugs for obd2 injectors. it said it was a PITA and that cutting and soldering is easier.

 

Yes your D16z6 injectors are 240cc. I'm not 100% that they are long enough to fit the F23 though. Someone else may be able to chime in to see if they physically fit. Or you can give them a test fit yourself and see if they are long enough.

I just de-pinned 4 of my Stock F22B2 injector connectors in 20 min. It only takes 2 to put them back in. Not sure where the PITA steams from. I guess I'm just used to de-pinning connectors now.

I'll post up a quick de-pin how-to I just have to put mine back together and take pics for you.


*Edit*
Holy F#@k this new VB format is an F'n pain in the *** with all the "You do not have permission, you must refresh and login", "your not logged in" crap.......

 

yeh that would be awesome if you could post up a quick hwo to for de-pinning. from what i read it sounds simple. i will take a look when i get home. i wont be on here again tonight since it is getting shut down at 9pm or w/e. but i will take a look at the injectors and **** tonight and see if they fit. provided i get home at a decent hour. it sure would be nice of they fit though. it would save me some trouble for sure. not that it seems too hard to repin the clips though. either way it will be a learning experience. thanks alot for all the help ghost.

 

Here is a quick and dirty DIY on how to de-pin your injector connectors.

Tools,


Needle Nose pliers and a long small prying tool. A watch makers screwdriver is the best tool. I made my own to fit in to all different connector pin locks. I ground off the end of an old style xmas ornament hook. This one is strong enough that I can put pressure on it and it does not kink/bend in half. It will break before it bends.

On the wire side of your injector connector you should see a small plastic tab sticking out from the rubber seal. Similar to this.



You take your needle nose pliers and grasp the plastic tab. Like so.



With the connector in one had and your pliers in the other. Firmly pull the pliers away from the connector.



If your connectors do not have this plastic tab you should just be able to pull the rubber plug out of the connector with your pliers and or pry it out with a small screwdriver.

Once you have the rubber gasket free from the connector slide it down the wires enough to give you some room to handle the wires individually.



Above is a view of the connector where you will be releasing the pin lock with your trusty screwdriver or pin tool.

With your tool in hand push it into the hole directly below the pin. Like this.



Once you feel your tool hit the back or tab of the connector gently pry downward on your tool forcing the tip of the tool up against the pin. At the same time you should be gently pulling on the corresponding wire.



It's a bit tricky to pry and pull at the same time. With practice it becomes quite easy to do. If you can place the connector in a vice that will make it a lot easier.

You may have to push the wire in and out and jiggle the pin tool a bit to get the pin to release. Again with practice it becomes easier to find the sweet spot when releasing the pins.

Voila Pin removed.


I noticed on my two wire harnesses that the injector connectors had a + and a number marked on the side of the connector that the (+) wire was situated.



The (+) wire is the stripped wire in the injector connector. The solid wire is the injector ground and it is the wire that goes to the ECU. If your connectors do not have any markings on them be sure to mark them before you remove the wires. Use a permanent marker and put (+) and (-) on the corresponding sides of the connector.

Where you have not done this before it may take you a bit to figure out how to get the pins to release. Don't get frustrated and try no to use too much force. it should only take a bit of pressure to release the pins.

Cheers and good luck.

 

some of the '95 cars are OBD2 so be careful where you get it from.........they made the switch about mid model year on the I4, not sure about the V6 but I believe it was made at the same time.