Engine Replacement...Crank no start
Hello, I just completed an engine replacement on a 99 accord 2.3L I am now getting a crank no start condition. Old engine ran but took on some water and developed lower end knock. I have spark, fuel, compression and my timing is dead on. No MIL light on. ( I made the light come on so I could confirm that the computer is working and it is). I cranked the engine long enough to wet the lifters. As I was swaping out the motor I had to change the fuel injector rail, the intake manifold and plenium (old motor had cruise control, new one did not). I am certain that I am getting spark, fuel, compression and correct timing, as long as I have been working in the field (15 yrs) I have never come across this type of situation and have asked a few local techs and they too are scratching there heads. The motor is used. The harness had an extra leg (connector) but the harness in the car does not have it. Mean anything? Please advise. Thanx.
Are al the grounds hooked up??
On the 90-93s the ground at the T-stat housing would cause this problem.
What did the 'Extra' plug go to?
Modified by hondadude at 10:00 PM 11/10/2008
On the 90-93s the ground at the T-stat housing would cause this problem.
What did the 'Extra' plug go to?
Modified by hondadude at 10:00 PM 11/10/2008
Unfortunately I have no idea where the extra plug goes too, it came with the engine and it was cut. The accord I installed the motor in did not need the extra leg so i really couldn't say where it goes to. As far as the grounds are concerned I did not see a ground to the thermostat housing, I hooked up the valve cover ground the left front ground and the ground to the crank position sensor. Is there suppose to be a ground on the t-stat housing? I did notice that the starter was sparking from the starter body but is still cranking ok, i will replace when vehicle is running but could that mean anything being that that the starter is under the distributor?? Please advise. Thank you.
Do you have a scope Sir, then do you have a pressure transducer. Are you sure of the distributor indexing please, I will assume this was not pulled out of the engine before or during the engine swap. Did you see this engine run before. Double check the rotor installation and that it is pointing to #1 at TDC Compression Stroke.
You have experience and the major items for getting the engine started, are the plugs wet with fuel, do you have a spark tester, can you get 30KV. Have you pulled the injector rail to see actual injection pattern, lean, poor spray pattern, dripping rich.
Cranking and cranking, have you put a little oil in the cylinders to seal up the washed down rings and then cranked the hell out of it again with the throttle wide open. It may still show good compression but a little more never hurt.
Can you please give a better description of the extra wiring. The computer is grounded where, hondadude was mentioning at the tstat housing, that is a popular Honda main harness ground location for the ECU. You did set a code, does this ECU put out a 5VRef and did you verify that please. How about cranking vacuum also.
Lets role with that for now Sir. Do you know exactly what year and what car did the new engine come out of please. Did it come with its own ECU also.
Can you compare the two insides of the two distributors and check the profile of the pick ups inside if they have any, sorry, not super up to speed on the ignition system off the top of my head.
Have seen improper engine swaps with different pick up or crank or cam reluctor profiles give you everything you need but fired at all the wrong times, four sparks, four injections but not properly timed, also improper syncing only sparked two cylinders then the ECU was tricked into restarting the sync and only sparked the same two cylinders, trigger point is the word I was looking for.
Sorry too much crap in there but hope something will help you out. This is why I asked about the scope and pressure xducer, it will show everything in one crank of the engine, spark (ignition) timing and mechanical timing all in one shot. (spark and injection timing usually go hand in hand)
You have experience and the major items for getting the engine started, are the plugs wet with fuel, do you have a spark tester, can you get 30KV. Have you pulled the injector rail to see actual injection pattern, lean, poor spray pattern, dripping rich.
Cranking and cranking, have you put a little oil in the cylinders to seal up the washed down rings and then cranked the hell out of it again with the throttle wide open. It may still show good compression but a little more never hurt.
Can you please give a better description of the extra wiring. The computer is grounded where, hondadude was mentioning at the tstat housing, that is a popular Honda main harness ground location for the ECU. You did set a code, does this ECU put out a 5VRef and did you verify that please. How about cranking vacuum also.
Lets role with that for now Sir. Do you know exactly what year and what car did the new engine come out of please. Did it come with its own ECU also.
Can you compare the two insides of the two distributors and check the profile of the pick ups inside if they have any, sorry, not super up to speed on the ignition system off the top of my head.
Have seen improper engine swaps with different pick up or crank or cam reluctor profiles give you everything you need but fired at all the wrong times, four sparks, four injections but not properly timed, also improper syncing only sparked two cylinders then the ECU was tricked into restarting the sync and only sparked the same two cylinders, trigger point is the word I was looking for.
Sorry too much crap in there but hope something will help you out. This is why I asked about the scope and pressure xducer, it will show everything in one crank of the engine, spark (ignition) timing and mechanical timing all in one shot. (spark and injection timing usually go hand in hand)
I am going to continue on the accord on Friday, the 14th. Needed to get some other repairs out of the shop. Unfortunately I do not have a scope. I did not see this engine run but I can say I am sure the distributor was not removed during the install and am positive that the rotor is at #1 at TDC. I will later try to explain in detail the extra harness, I have been feeling that may be a main ground off the harness and will look further at how the computer is grounded. Please do not apologize for the info....the more the better I greatly appreciate it. Any more info I will also appreciate. Thanks again, be in touch very soon.
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