Completely Stripped Head Bolt
i'm completely out of ideas now. stripped the head bolt by accident and now there's no way of getting the bastard out. i've used the bolt-outs from sears to slamming a 13mm on there but no luck. i think it must be overtorqued because my 545 ft lb impact doesnt even break it lose. i then chisiled a slit on the bolt so i can slam a flathead to turn it but that didnt seem to do anything. i tried welding the socket onto the bolt but i suck so i have to wait until my friend gets back into town. help me with ideas so i dont have to take it to the shop. thanks.


back in the old days the 12pt head bolts used to strip all the time and the most effective way was to drill the head of the bolt off and then lift the head.
also when you put the head back together DO NOT USE that RED CRAP to seal the v/c gasket it is not needed only a small dab in the 4 corners where the cam tower caps are.
also when you put the head back together DO NOT USE that RED CRAP to seal the v/c gasket it is not needed only a small dab in the 4 corners where the cam tower caps are.
I would weld a larger nut to that sucker (welded through the center of the nut), and maybe apply a little heat to the head. The hard part is getting a good weld on it. I've done this quite a few times, and eventually the weld holds and you can back that sucker out of there. Of course at work I'm doing this on a disassembled block, so you will have to have something covering the valve springs etc. Good luck
i had the same problem but luckly for me the head was toast(bent valves and broken cam)...so i torch that ****!! ahahahahah i tried all the things u tried including a 12 point socket...good luck!
you're gonna have a tough time welding a socket onto that, you might be better off trying to weld a big nut onto it and then use a socket on that.
I think It will be easiest to drill the head off of that bolt, lift the head, and then try to get the bolt out. you will have a lot more options and a LOT more room to work with.
And you don't say why you are pulling the head, but you can get most of the 4 cyl accord motors with low mileage for maybe $450. Just keep that in the back of your head. you might want to consider that based on the problems you are already having.
I think It will be easiest to drill the head off of that bolt, lift the head, and then try to get the bolt out. you will have a lot more options and a LOT more room to work with.
And you don't say why you are pulling the head, but you can get most of the 4 cyl accord motors with low mileage for maybe $450. Just keep that in the back of your head. you might want to consider that based on the problems you are already having.
You've two options:
Have a larg(er) diameter nut TIG (low(er) temp) welded on. or
Disaasemble enought to gain a clear shot at it and grind the head off. Hopefully, when you get the head off you won't find the aluminum block treads coming out with the remainder of the stud.
If you've got the budget for it, get a set of head studs for your reassembly. That way you'll avoid all this next time.
P
Have a larg(er) diameter nut TIG (low(er) temp) welded on. or
Disaasemble enought to gain a clear shot at it and grind the head off. Hopefully, when you get the head off you won't find the aluminum block treads coming out with the remainder of the stud.
If you've got the budget for it, get a set of head studs for your reassembly. That way you'll avoid all this next time.
P
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i'll will try those options but will have to wait til next weekend to give you guys the details. thanks for all your inputs. i was taking the head off to do a headgasket change btw.
IF the Gods truely frown on your project; and the aluminum strips out along with the stud, you've got an alternative fix.
Heli-coils
http://www.timesert.com/
replacement thread inserts
P
Heli-coils
http://www.timesert.com/
replacement thread inserts
P
I would drill it and pull the head off, then hot tank the head and have it checked out. 100-150$ to be completly confident in putting it back on. It is well worth it, I think I paid like 75$ for a 3 angle valve job. Not to mention you would have more space to weld the remainder of the bolt, with the head off.
Ya ive seen good and bad from those. I have seen it fix more than not but, I have seen a spark plug blown through coil packs (Ford E350 van) twice on the same cylinder. I personally wouldnt be very confident in them on something that important.
Originally Posted by P_Adams
IF the Gods truely frown on your project; and the aluminum strips out along with the stud, you've got an alternative fix.
Heli-coils
http://www.timesert.com/
replacement thread inserts
P
Heli-coils
http://www.timesert.com/
replacement thread inserts
P
By the looks of it that head has some heat baked sludge on it. If it were me knowing the head has gotten that hot I would take it to a machine shop and have it checked out. The last thing you want to do is get it back together to find out you have awarped head...
well i finally got that damn bolt off. got my arp studs in but not that confident yet in putting the head back on because i want to check if everything is straight. my good friend said he's always just measured and fine-grit sanded down the uneven parts. he's good with cars and says its cheap and it's always worked for him.
It's a bit of a "Hail Mary" approach, but IF it works - more power to you.
I'd just hate to find you back here with the "My Head Gasket blew again" thread thingie.
Yeh, how did you get it out?
P
I'd just hate to find you back here with the "My Head Gasket blew again" thread thingie.
Yeh, how did you get it out?
P
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