Anyone out there having problems with their abs in their 90-93 teg it is not complicated to remove, and inexpensive.

Many forums explain lengthy removal procedures etc. as well as all these things you must buy.

The only things you need are:

Prop valve stamped 40/40 can be found in some si models and rs integra's 90-93

Brake line bender

Small line cutter

Thats it

Your stock master cylinder and booster will work perfectly, and your old brake lines can be cut and bent to fit perfectly in less than an hour you can do all of this

I will post pics as soon as possible

Just remove your ABS cylinder

Screw rear brake line fittings into the R marked prop ports to suspend the valve

Screw into strut tower to be sure of no problems down the road

Then bend and cut your front lines, and two lines from the master cylinder.

Use your old fittings, just clean them up, one fitting from the master cylinder will be twelve millimeter as opposed to the ten millimeter inputs for the prop valve , just use an extra fitting you have two or three extra in your abs system.

Just cut, slide fittings and flare the ends, screw into place you will be in full working order

After this you can remove your abs computer, if it is a two door it is located behind the passenger side rear interior panel, four ten millimeter bolts, unplug from ecu. All sensors to wheel bearings can be removed as well, and abs relays also.

Underneath your battery there are many abs components which can be removed as well then allowing the battery tray removal. This is a nice cleanup and open space to view and work with.

As i said i will add pictures tonight at some point to better illustrate it

Just trying to lend a helpful hand to those who are contemplating removal for weight, or mechanical difficulties and the expenses which come with fixing it.


While were at it, anyone want to post any trouble they ran into with a b20 swap or b16 swap in their da, and pics? Thanks.

Lastly, is their an under crossmember for underneath the engine which will fit the da to remove the massive stock one?

 

to answer your question about the crossmember:
i removed mine when i installed my 5zigen header and never put it back on with no noticeable side effects. im sure this probably isnt advisable for some reason or another but ive yet to discover it.

 

thanks for the info

much appreciated

when you did your gsr swap what were the more difficult things you ran into, anything? i was thinking about doing a c1 swap but, also debating building up my bottom end and boosting my ls, with the ls tranny longer gear set up

 

there are a few companies that makes front cross members that are less bulky than the stock. Full-race in the one would recommend. You should never remove this as it holds all of your front end geometry in place.

 

got pics?

 

actually can't find my dig cam, but when i get out of college tomorrow i will find it and take some pics just to forewarn you im in the middle of majorrrrrrrr bodywork and just work all together

when i bought the car i paid seven hundred for it so granted it was in pretty bad shape but yeah i will throw some pics of the prop valve install tomorrow

main reason i did this is because everyone has said you need the rs lines and non abs boosters and you don't it just seems like a waste of money and overall the giant abs cylinder is just ugly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93_db2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there are a few companies that makes front cross members that are less bulky than the stock. Full-race in the one would recommend. You should never remove this as it holds all of your front end geometry in place. </TD></TR></TABLE>
it does not hold all of my front end geometry in place. its simply a brace. i was talking about the one that goes front to back, not the one where the radius rods connect to.
to the op: swapping a gsr motor is pretty straight forward. i originally made all of my mounts from dc2 and da mounts and just recently bought innovative ones. Id be willing to sell you the mounts, if you like. i also used an s80 trans. hardest thing about my swap was just swapping dizzy internals from obd2 to obd1 and that wasnt that hard. pm me if you have an questions!


Modified by be18see1 at 10:30 AM 11/6/2008

 

i wanna see pictures

 

i have had the one from front to bad off for 1 year or so hit a ton of pot hols and drive on really bad roads all the time never had one prolbom y swap the inside of a dizzy just chang the plug from the obd2 one to the 2 obd1 ones

 

Whats up fellas, dont know how old this is but wanted to know if there were pics available, im about to do this and want to be sure which lines are being hooked up where.. i have the 40/40 valve already and really just want to get a idea of the middle and final product.. Thanks fellas

 

well its 6yrs old, and you just need lines from the mc to the prop valve then the prop valve to the wheels. google a pic of a teg without abs.

 

thanks i have a pic of the valve hooked up.. so basically any remaining lines will just be put aside?