I put a new IACV in my civic hatch, it has a d16z6 swap fully built and it still idles at about 2k and jumps up and down from there and after warming up, it idles normal at 700 rpm.

Does anyone know what to do to fix this? Please don't tell me to search b/c they all say new IACV.


Modified by z6htch at 8:03 PM 11/6/2008

 

um check the tps for correct voltage . also try to lower the idle with the idle set screw i doubt thats the problem because its bouncing worth a try . thats usually your Tps or IACV also just curious but what motor did u get the newest IACV from ? because obd2 iacv's are different between the y7 and y8 motor one is a 3 wire and ones a 2 thats why i asked where u got the new one from

 

Idk what it's from. I got it used from a guy for free and said it would work on my engine.

 

any CEL's?

 

Currently it is, but from what I was told, the codes were fuel injectors, iacv, egr, and eld. I just got the car and it has bigger injectors and the engine is built for turbo.

I still have to check them myself. but the z6 doesn't have a egr valve if I'm correct? and I have no clue what the electrical load detector is, if anyone can help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by z6htch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Currently it is, but from what I was told, the codes were fuel injectors, iacv, egr, and eld. I just got the car and it has bigger injectors and the engine is built for turbo.

I still have to check them myself. but the z6 doesn't have a egr valve if I'm correct? and I have no clue what the electrical load detector is, if anyone can help</TD></TR></TABLE>

ur ELD is located in your fusebox under your hood . the code could also be caused by a exposed wire making contact somwhere . so check for any exposed wires or do what i would do and simply go to the junkyard and grab a used underhood fusebox so if that dont work u know for a fact its a exposed wire somwhere hope i helped man also make sure u have the correct iacv like i said they have a 2 wire and a 3 wire for d series . and z6's dont have egr's

 

Okay I kinda do. Could I just replace the eld or do I need a new fuse box? And the connecter for the iacv plugged into the new one and only had two prongs. So is that the right one, even though it still doesn't work?

 

how many wires on the plug for the iacv and how many prongs inside the iacv sensor ? if its the same number on each side thats rite . i would pull the iacv off the intake mani and make sure the gaskets there and the screens are clean and yes u must replace the fuse box

 

Check, check and check.. still doesn't work. I have no idea what to do now! lol

 

FITV?

 

I'm sorry mike I'm a noob w/ abbreviations lol. Whats that mean? thanks

 

Ah I found the write up on how to clean it I'll try this tomorrow and let you guys know what happens.

 

if your still having the problem after cleaning the IACV it could be the TPS.

 

its ur fitv valve. its under the throttle body with two water hoses coming out of it. u need to open it up and clean it reall good with carb cleaner and loosen or tighten the big screw/bolt thing inside. theres a write up on it under faq but i dnt have the link. the iacvalve takes over the idle ONCE the temp is up to par/warm in other words but before the engine warms up the fitv is the one thats doing the idling.. think of it kinda and dont quote me like a choke valve on the carbs.. hope this helps

 

Id have said air in your coolant... I had alot of idle problems after putting my new engine in, hunting for idle and the idle being too high. Cleaned both my FITV and IACV and that didnt help, turned out there was air in the heater matrix causing the car to hunt for idle until warmed up

After bleeding my coolant again the car idled great! If you replaced your IACV its possible there will be air in your coolant still, worth a try!!

 

1. Air in the coolant, Leave the cap of and run the car till the fan comes on.
( While adding coolant as needed^^)

2. Egr, Either get a helms manul and clean it or RR it.

3. Check for a vacum leak, Even the smallest hole can make a differnce.

 

Okay I cleaned the fitv and still nothing.. It idles worse now, and I checked the codes. They are a 22 and 29 if I'm correct. 22 is the vtec pressure sensor, what do I do about this, and is this making my car idle funky.

Z6's don't have egr, but how do I bleed the coolant? AND.. I have no idea what code 29 is if I read it right cuz it blinks so dam fast.

 

did you tighten the big white screw/ plug when you took the FITV out ?

 

ALSO get this, my temp gauge doesn't work, and I doubt my gas gauge does cuz its been on full since I got it and won't move but I've only driven about 15 miles. like its all the way up there and the temp is all the way down. I give UP!!!!! help!

 

open your FITV screw the thing inside tight with your fingers or spin it with a screw driver. im almost 100% that's your problem. if its not that your coolent could be low tha also causes weird idle and is often overlooked.

 

I did that and the car won't even start screwed in. Ugh I give up! and there is plenty of coolant in the overflow so it isn't low right?

Somebody just come over lol and fix it for me.

 

OH MY GOD I QUIT SOMEONE HELP!

 

Have you opened the radiator cap and bled the coolant yet? Just cos there's loads in the overflow doesn't mean there aren't bubbles in the system

 

No I haven't and how do you do that, nobody will explain lol. I'm a noob, sorry about all this

 

Some one help and how do I fix a vtec pressure switch cel?