I'm building a 98 GSR, planning on installing some aftermarket cams, single runner IM, and the other typical bolt ons. However, here in cali, running an OBD1 jumped ecu is illegal for smog. If I run a piggyback unit such as emanage or Apexi SAFC NEO, will the code scanner still be able connect and read the OBD2 during the smog test? If so, which unit do you guy recommend I get? It will be for a DD and will get dyno tuned.
I've searched up on both units, but I'm not to familiar w/ tuning lingo such as '16 point or pin' etc, and so everything I read doesn't make much sense to me.

 

anyone can correct me if this is incorrect, no harm done, but I believe obd2 and an safc will simply fix the correction short term, but after a couple keystarts the ecu will re correct and compensate, infact I believe obd1 even does that also, i know this is off the wall a bit but I have NeptuneRTP and it has a max and min correction for target AF ratio, these numbers relate to how much fuel is added or subtracted in total % based on the target voltage the 02 sensor is suppose to hit.

All and all I believe no one should buy an safc and just use it to "look cool" and display rpm and map and whatever else, but dont use it for tuning.

As a tuner friend of mine said, if you just want something like that pick up S100 youl be able to do much much more then with a silly safc, if you want something a bit more powerfull in the long run, pick up hondata/neptune RTP or something else thats a complete engine management package and dont deal with these "bitch fix's"

dont take this the wrong way, but from your question id imagine you dont know a whole lot about tuning and thats cool and all everyone needs to start somewhere, but do your research about what actually an safc does inrelation to a fuel map and youl start to understand why an safc really isnt a good product.

An safc simply fools the map voltage inrelation to the input voltage so the ecu thinks that its getting a map signal differently from what its reading.. so whats the big deal? well the big deal is you have a map value of lets say 220mhg which on my h22 is around idle and it has an ignition value assioated with that which happens to be around 16 degrees before top dead center. so whats this mean?
Ignition timing generally ramp's up as rpm increases ie "from 16 degrees to 20 upwards of 40 degrees then falls back down to ignition value based on numerous things one thing being fuel octane level... ok so that being said, when you alter the map signal the ignition value could be way out of spec for what the engine needs and could harm the engine.


So I recommend you picking up and reading a tuning book like from autozone or some other place, the one I read was about 120 pages which touched on nearly every subject, it really open my eyes to how this all works.


So avoid anysort of piggyback option, but I dont know how good the greddy emanage is, but i would get a s100 or some real programming option insted, you will understand how it works later.

--Aaron

 

I appreciate the lengthy reply, but like I mention in my first post,
a chipped OBD1 ecu is illegal in CA. Therefor I was simply looking for an OBD2 piggyback system that will help me get the most out of my bolt ons and cams.