Looking to get a mint set for the right price 15 x 6.5 +45 offset but I am unsure about them fitting around my front brakes. I have the fastbrakes 11" front disc brake upgrade with the Wilwood Dynalite II 4 piston calipers. Currently I am running 16 x 7.5 +43 offset Kosei K1 Racing with very little clearance between the spokes and the caliper, like approx 1/8" or so. I was wondering if anyone could or has measured the distance from the hub mount to the inside of the spokes so I could reference that to what I currently have on the car. The car is a 1990 civic hatchback. Thanks in advance.

 

Rywire told me these wheels wouldn't clear the calipers

 

how does he know this? just wondering if its from experience or word of mouth?

 

he has those brakes and had some 38+ offset.

 

oh, well the wheels I bought are the +45 offset. Do you know if it was an issue of outer diameter contact or strictly inner spoke contact? And thanks a lot for the response, although I already put in the order regardless. I always wanted these wheels, and I know all about the plaguing cracks etc etc that follow ownership. I have another civic that I can use them on if they don't work but I really hope they do. I'm trying to find a period correct wheel that will work with my current setup on that car. Again thanks for the help.

 

the spokes hit the calipers I too love these rims and the 38s stick out farther than the 45s.

 

I'm not trying to sound rediculous here but offset has always been a simple thing that I may and most may misunderstand. I thought that offset is zero if the hub was even with the centerline of the wheel, positive if it is toward the front or face of the wheel and negative if behind the centerline of the wheel or more toward the back of the wheel. If that is the the case then wouldn't +38 offset be less of a positive offset than a +45? Just getting this information from tirerack.com . Not trying to argue just trying to figure it out.

From Tire rack:

The offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel. The offset can be one of three types (measured in millimeters).*

Zero Offset
The hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel.

Positive
The hub mounting surface is toward the front or wheel side of the wheel. Positive offset wheels are generally found on front wheel drive cars and newer rear drive cars.

Negative
The hub mounting surface is toward the back or brake side of the wheels centerline. "Deep dish" wheels are typically a negative offset.

 

your kinda right, i think if hte spokes hit, the offset wouldnt matter. Basically its the outer rim that is moved but the spoke to hub relationship would be the same. Its been along day lol

 

Well adding positive offset doesn't help with the caliper clearance afterall according to this site which I copied this off of and it makes much more sense after reading it as well.

Positive offset moves the hub-mounting surface toward the OUTSIDE of the wheel; negative offset moves it toward the car. None of this is important, though, because the offset is measured between the wheel's hub-mounting surface and the centerline of the wheel; it has NO bearing on the distance between the hub-mounting surface and the spokes.

The only thing you're interested in -- for the purpose of deciding whether a given wheel will clear a given caliper -- is the distance between the hub mounting surface and the spokes. That's not "offset" and it's not "backspacing"; it's usually called "caliper height", "caliper clearance", or "caliper relief". "Backspacing" is the measure of the distance between the hub-mounting surface and the plane of the inside edge of the wheel. In other words, it's just like offset except that you measure all the way to the inner side (the side closest to the car) of the wheel rather than just to the centerline.

To determine the necessary caliper height, take a wheel off the car and lay it aside, then look at the hub on the car. Measure how far the caliper "sticks out" from the surface to which the wheel will mount; that's how much clearance you need between the wheel's mounting surface and the wheel's spokes.


From http://www.nsxprime.com

Looks like I'll be using them on the other car or maybe selling the big brake kit and getting different calipers, it'll be hard to let those go though, I don't think I could go backwards as far as braking goes, I love how they work with the rear discs now.

 

thinking about it now, it may be possible with the more positive offset I could get away with arp extended wheel studs, open lugs and a spacer... I'll have to wait till the wheels get here to figure out what I'll be doing. Again thanks for the input to the situation. I'll post what happens and some pics of the wheels when I get them. Apparently they are basically new in the original boxes.

 

let me know if it works, i got rnrs and wanna do the wilwood kit

 

pic of the car they hopefully will eventually be going on. This was taken last year inside the Honda dealership where I used to work as a service tech. This was before it was lowered on Tein SS coilovers and before the OEM foglights were installed. So needless to say it doesn't look like a 4x4 anymore but I'm really into the clean look.

 

clean ef man, im a fan. Rnrs would compliment it well

 

They came today, I measured for the brakes and came up with needing 15mm H&R spacers so I bought those and ARP extended wheel studs. I also purchased 205/50-R15 Falken Azenis RT-615's. I still have to get some open lugs and new valve stems.