ok please et me kow how often at first i should change the oil and what kind on:

Block with, new bearings,new pumps, new rings
and head that has new valves, new oil seals, and shaved head, milled,ported .

do i need to put regular oil and run it for2-4 houndred miles and change again or how does thatgo ?

 

I just did mine like normal when i rebuilt, i just didnt take it over 4-5k rpms for the first 1000 miles so everything can break in good. Royal purple make break in oil but i've never used it

 

bump, more info need more experienced responses, please

 

This question will get the most differing opinionated replies. It's like asking what's the best oil, gasoline, etc. etc.

I'll offer up my personal, first-hand experience based on how I broke my D16A6 engine in after I personally built it using all new pistons, rings, bearings, seals, etc. etc.

I used regular 5W30, non-syhtetic engine oil.

I drove the car easily and kept the rpm under 3500rpm for the first 500 miles, then changed the oil at 500 miles.

I then drove the car easily and kept the rpm under 4500rpm or so until I hit 1000 total miles on the engine, and then I changed the oil.

I then rarely took the engine up to 5500-6000rpm or so until I hit the 3000 total engine mile mark before I changed the oil once again.

After 3000 miles I literally drove the engine/car as hard as I wanted to - meaning frequent redline accelerations, etc. I kept the engine on a 3000 mile oil change schedule after that.

I built that engine 5 years ago and it still runs 1005 perfectly to this day, with ZERO smoking and ZERO oil consumption. The engine itself is an 11:1CR D16A6 non-VTEC engine.

I personally don't think synthetic oil is good during a break in period.

I personally try to stay away from highway runs/out of town trips for the first 5000 miles of a rebult engine's life. Daily driving and bringing th engine through a range of rpm is better IMO to seat rings, etc.

Some people build an engine and rip on it from the beginning, and some others may take even more precautions than I did. It's all personal preference.

 

just like he said ...... everytime i build a fresh engine i run a good filter and magnetic drain plug that you can get from a local parts store/ just match up the threads. any way i run conventional 5w30 in the first start up for around 20 min. then change it this help get rid of **** in the motor from the build .. the i dont change it till about 500 miles then 1500 miles then to 3000 miles then continue every 3000 miles.


after your first 3000 miles you can run any oil you want meaning sytec, if you want..
this has always worked great for all the engines i've built.

 

that sounds like a good response, but because i have original pistong original rods and crank, i think once i hit 1,200 miles i should be ready to go, ok and on a new engine 5w30 is good right ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krysted9354 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that sounds like a good response, but because i have original pistong original rods and crank, i think once i hit 1,200 miles i should be ready to go, ok and on a new engine 5w30 is good right ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't even understand what you're asking or saying.

I was replying to the OP because he started the topic asking a very specific question about his engine build.

I don't mind trying to help you too, but ehat exactly is your question?

 

Its okay if you take the rpms over 3k just stay under 6,5k.. this helps the piston rings expand and seat in properly.. other wise you could glaze the walls and the rings will not seal. dont leave you car idling for long periods of time or rev it in neutral.