just replaced my front brake pads and the calipur on the passenger. I bled the brakes twice. When I turn the car off, the brakes feel normal. However, when I turn the car back on it feels like there is air in the bakes. I even tried bleeding the brakes with the car on. Any ideas?

 

more info? hows the pedal feel like does it drop to the floor after being pressed for a long time?

 

Did you bleed all brakes and in the right order? (Rear Right, Front Left, Rear Left, Front Right)

 

yes, pedal drops to the floor after being held down for a bit

 

uh, nope - thanks

 

Assuming there is no air in the system, the most common cause of a brake pedal sinking to the floor is a faulty brake master cylinder.

 

Replacing brake pads alone doesn't warrent a bleed as long as you don't open the valve. Replacing a caliper will, but only on that corner. You definitely don't have to bleed all four wheels for what you did.

How did you bleed the brakes? Which corners did you do? How do you know there isn't any air in the system?

I always use a setup like this to make sure I don't pull air back into the system as I bleed:

 

alright guys, sorry but i was full of grease so my sister was posting for me and not updating properly. Here is what happened. I replaced my brake pads just on the front and found that on the passenger side (right) i had a leak. There was a tear in the boot so i replaced the whole caliper. Well when i went to bleed the system the first 2 times i had no problems but as soon as i turned on the car it dropped to the floor.

I tried to bleed it a 3rd time and WHOA!!!! suddenly i've got an *** load of air bubbles. it's ridiculous. i bled the same brake (the rear right- where you are supposed to start) for no less than 15 minutes straight and STILL had air coming out. I swear to you if the whole system had nothing but air and not a drop of dot 3 i could have bled it by now.

Anyway, i tried that for a while until it got too dark and cold to continue and i let it be for the night. I don't understand how there could possibly be so much air. Also, just for kicks i tried to bleed the front left for a moment, and there was no air. Seems like I'm having all the problems on the right rear.

Any ideas???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austinkli &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Well when i went to bleed the system the first 2 times i had no problems but as soon as i turned on the car it dropped to the floor</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you bleeding with the car off? You have to have the car on to bleed so there is vac to the system.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austinkli &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i bled the same brake (the rear right- where you are supposed to start) for no less than 15 minutes straight and STILL had air coming out. I swear to you if the whole system had nothing but air and not a drop of dot 3 i could have bled it by now.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you're replacing the front, the rear should have nothing to do with bleeding. If you've been bleeding for 15 min and still getting air out of the rear, that would mean the whole thing was filled with air in the first place and would have been giving the condition before you changed the pads. You shouldn't have touched the rear if you were only doing the front.

What are you doing to bleed? What is your process?

 

First off the car being on or off has nothing to do with it, the booster only assit in pushing the pedal down with little effort. I personally wouldnt have the car on cause it might cover up or not allow you to see or feel a problem in the pedal that you would with the car off. Also i would say this, there has to be another leak somewhere else where you are pulling air in cause if you have bled it enough to where there would be no more air in it then its got to get it from some where. I would try to bleed it at the porp. valve and work my way back and second the bleed process always start from the furthest point of the master cly. right rear, left rear, right front, driver front. if you are still getting air constanly out of the porp. valve then go furthur up to the master cly, it has to be coming from some where.

 

feel your brake master cylinder full then begin your bleeding process.....if that doesn't work or make it any better


i would check the new caliper, and brake line and make sure you put the brake line washer on if left off can leak

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrhatch2356 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First off the car being on or off has nothing to do with it, the booster only assit in pushing the pedal down with little effort. I personally wouldnt have the car on cause it might cover up or not allow you to see or feel a problem in the pedal that you would with the car off. Also i would say this, there has to be another leak somewhere else where you are pulling air in cause if you have bled it enough to where there would be no more air in it then its got to get it from some where. I would try to bleed it at the porp. valve and work my way back and second the bleed process always start from the furthest point of the master cly. right rear, left rear, right front, driver front. if you are still getting air constanly out of the porp. valve then go furthur up to the master cly, it has to be coming from some where.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well that's what we thought too, that's how i did it the first 2 times. the 3rd time however i looked in the hanes manual and it actually goes rear right, front left, rear left, front right. Weird I know but that's what it says.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AutoXer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are you bleeding with the car off? You have to have the car on to bleed so there is vac to the system.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've never in my life heard that, but as I said, I did try that once, and still no better.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AutoXer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you're replacing the front, the rear should have nothing to do with bleeding. If you've been bleeding for 15 min and still getting air out of the rear, that would mean the whole thing was filled with air in the first place and would have been giving the condition before you changed the pads. You shouldn't have touched the rear if you were only doing the front.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very not true sir, no matter which brake you get air into, they are all connected so you need to bleed them all.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AutoXer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What are you doing to bleed? What is your process? </TD></TR></TABLE>
This

 

As you were busy pumping away did you look to see if the resivor (sp)
was full and not empty i.e. sucking in air?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CTRwannaB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As you were busy pumping away did you look to see if the resivor (sp)
was full and not empty i.e. sucking in air?</TD></TR></TABLE>
it was full. And after i filled up the container i refilled the resevoir.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrhatch2356 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">always start from the furthest point of the master cly. right rear, left rear, right front, driver front.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Untrue.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrakeExpert &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bleed the brakes Right Rear, Left Front, Left Rear, Right Front. You do not go farthest to closest with Hondas.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

You're waiting too long to top off your resavoir. You need to look after every couple times you open the bleeder to ensure you're not pulling in more air. If you don't you will be doing it until the day you die.

You do not need to have the car running, nor should you for safety reasons.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by starion88esir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're waiting too long to top off your resavoir. You need to look after every couple times you open the bleeder to ensure you're not pulling in more air. If you don't you will be doing it until the day you die.

You do not need to have the car running, nor should you for safety reasons. </TD></TR></TABLE>
no i'm not but i'll check. the resevoir barely looses anything at all. No burps whatsoever. for all practical purposes i know how to bleed brakes. I've done it on my celica and once before on my room mates gsr. I'm just stumped as to why it never stops putting out air. Spoke with a mechanic earlier and he told me jack the front end up and open it up and just let the air drip out into the bottle which is what i'm doing now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by honda.lioness &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This is the correct way for your Civic. See the factory service manual for the 95 Civic linked at http://ww1.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html. You can also see this sequence at http://www.autozone.com, in its free repair guide.

I do not turn my engine on when bleeding the brakes. I use a Mity-Vac pump, though I suspect the two-person way with one person carefully pushing the brake pedal is better at evacuating air.

Are you making sure the brake fluid reservoir never burps? That is, it is not getting so low as you bleed that it uncovers enough to suck in a big air bubble, are you?</TD></TR></TABLE>

please guys, the order is not the problem. I never get past the first brake. I'm starting on the correct brake and it never stops pushing air out. Sometimes i get a few pumps of nothing but fluid, then suddenly i'll push the brake a fourth time and tons of air comes out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austinkli &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no i'm not but i'll check. the resevoir barely looses anything at all. No burps whatsoever. for all practical purposes i know how to bleed brakes. I've done it on my celica and once before on my room mates gsr. I'm just stumped as to why it never stops putting out air. Spoke with a mechanic earlier and he told me jack the front end up and open it up and just let the air drip out into the bottle which is what i'm doing now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you're not allowing air in at the resavoir it's pulling it in from somewhere else. You need to find where or you won't fix the problem. Gravity bleeeding (what the mechanic told you to try) won't help if you're pulling in air any more than your bleeding works for (that's to say it will work for a few pumps only). I always replace calipers in pairs. Check for any signs of leaking at all of the bleeders, the lines, the whole nine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by starion88esir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you're not allowing air in at the resavoir it's pulling it in from somewhere else. You need to find where or you won't fix the problem. Gravity bleeeding (what the mechanic told you to try) won't help if you're pulling in air any more than your bleeding works for (that's to say it will work for a few pumps only). I always replace calipers in pairs. Check for any signs of leaking at all of the bleeders, the lines, the whole nine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks. I've already checked all the bleeders and the lines. no leaking. Does anyone know how to check the new caliper to see if it's bad or not?

 

Any ideas?

 

bump for updates. took the caliper back today and got a new one. put the new one on, bled the brakes until i was getting nothing but fluid. Soon as I turned the car on it goes right to the floor though and was really loose. I left the car on to bleed to brakes and it's still crap but better than it was. any ideas? After dinner I'm headed back outside to bleed the brakes again with the car on since that's the only time i seemed to have progress.

 

i've had a similar problem it had an air bubble in the line.. it felt like it and i bled the line several times but never enough.. i had to bleed the line for soo long that it finally ridded it of the air bubble.. i bled it soo much that i didnt beleive there was that much fluid in the line..

another time there was a little crack in the line had to replace the line

 

thanks for all the help guys. turns out that the caliper that i picked up from advanced was bad. we grabbed a new one and put it on, then we went ahead and bled it with the car on and it felt a lot better. Guess the other caliper was bringing in air somewhere.