I was just wondering...

What is the i-VTEC range (in RPMs) for a '07 Civic LX? I can't tell. My guess it's from 4.5K RPMs to around 6K RPMs, but I'm not sure. Since I'm bump shifting now (manually shifting the auto tranny), I want to stay in my i-VTEC range so I can get the best performance. Thanks in advance.

 

Read up, it's not the VTEC you think it is....

http://asia.vtec.net/Engines/R18A/index.html

Here's more...

http://asia.vtec.net/Engines/RiVTEC/index.html

One more...

http://world.honda.com/HDTV/news/2005-4050705a/


Modified by av911 at 1:45 PM 10/28/2008

 

Why didn't you just get a stick then? I don't think you are benefitting at all from shifting like that. The car is still an automatic and still looses at least 20 percent of power to the wheels no matter how you shift it.

And I didn't think there was any vtec in an LX. For stop light and 1/4 mile racing put that thing in drive and punch it! The computer knows when to shift best. You could hold the brake and give it a little gas to build the revs and then release the brake, that's about all you can do

 

economy vtec ftl.

 

Drop into 3. That's what you want.

 

Why drop it into 3?

 

hi

 

I got an auto because I never learned how to drive a stick.

Thanks for the info...@ least I know I'm saving gas, so it's not a total loss. I'm actually saving up for a real performance car, so it's not a big deal to me. I just thought the R18 had a base VTEC range like its predecessors, but I guess not. *shrugs*

 

i think i've been cheated.....i didnt know that LX model came with i-vtec.

 

First of its not I-vtec

It does have v-tec but not what you think, in the R18's the v-tec is activated when the computer feels the need for extra power. However, the computer is going more for gas mileage so you SOL on speed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 100miles+ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First of its not I-vtec</TD></TR></TABLE>

It IS also called i-VTEC. It's just that the R18 has a different implementation of it.

http://automobiles.honda.com/c....aspx

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by #1 Sailor Scout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got an auto because I never learned how to drive a stick.

Thanks for the info...@ least I know I'm saving gas, so it's not a total loss. I'm actually saving up for a real performance car, so it's not a big deal to me. I just thought the R18 had a base VTEC range like its predecessors, but I guess not. *shrugs*</TD></TR></TABLE>

Should learn stick if you want TRUE performance. MT FTW

Drop into 3 to stop the AT from going into 4th, holding the car in VTEC range.

It's not so great for the tranny, but oh well.

 

Thanks again. So no benefits from what I'm doing in auto-x or road racing? I don't street race & I haven't been to a drag strip in about half a year.

I'll see if I can learn to drive a stick. Already know how to drive a sports-shift. Those are the trannies in some of the newer cars (Infiniti G35/Nissan 350Z); the ones that have the P,R,N,D, then the + & - signs for sports shifting. Hmm...reminds me of Initial D.

 

MT is waaaay better then auto,

Theres nothing like holding an SI at like 5k and dumping the clutch and going threw the first 4 gears

I miss that high revving Z3 and the sound of it.

Oh well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by #1 Sailor Scout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll see if I can learn to drive a stick. Already know how to drive a sports-shift. Those are the trannies in some of the newer cars (Infiniti G35/Nissan 350Z); the ones that have the P,R,N,D, then the + & - signs for sports shifting. Hmm...reminds me of Initial D.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why didn't you just buy a manual and learn with it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by #1 Sailor Scout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm actually saving up for a real performance car, so it's not a big deal to me. I just thought the R18 had a base VTEC range like its predecessors, but I guess not. *shrugs*</TD></TR></TABLE>

OH...no you ditent!!! *waves finger and shakes head*

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K5^ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why didn't you just buy a manual and learn with it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because ruining the clutch on a REAL performance car is fun.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2008fijibluesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Because ruining the clutch on a REAL performance car is fun. </TD></TR></TABLE>

OP: Wouldn't it make more sense to buy an manual gearbox now to acclimate yourself for your REAL car, whatever that may mean?

 

I'd say buy like a 1995 Ford Ranger or F150 MT to learn.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FijiBlueFG2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd say buy like a 1995 Ford Ranger or F150 MT to learn. </TD></TR></TABLE>



I learned on a 1983 GMC Sierra 4 speed (top loader) with granny/low gear. Low (1st) has no synchros so you have to be stopped to downshift into it, but it makes it so easy to start off. I got the truck moving without stalling my first attempt and it was smooth sailing from there. The top loader shifter/transmission combo isn't going to produce any lighting fast, GT-R-esque shift, but it taught me how to shift properly. Going from that to my first manual car (an Accord), made the Accord feel like an sports car as far as how easily it shifted and how much faster it was.