Wifey wants heated seats so I will be doing that for winter time. I need to tap into a 12 Volt 10Amp source and am wondering it the 5th plug above the underdash fuse panel will suffice. I know the 4th plug only switches on with the headlights but the 5th is on as soon as you turn the car on, which is what I want. The kit should come with its own fuse. Any help is appreciated. I have a manual at home and will see what info it has on that plug, but I'm at work and am brainstorming the layout right now. Thanks
Steve

 

Just go straight to the ignition harness, what car? i could give u wire colors

 

sorry it's the 95 civic dx. So tap off the power lead to the ignition harness? What about the plyg I'm talking about? All I have to do for that is crimp a female plug onto the wire and plug it in without splicing anything. Just need to know if it can handle it. Thanks again.

 

I wouldn't use the option connectors for this purpose. They may hold 10amps but for the duration you're talking I'd run a separate 12awg wire to the battery with a 30 amp fuse inline. (add a relay if you want it ignition switched)

For the price of the wire and time to run it, it's worth preventing the chance of randomly popping fuses or worse yet, an under dash fire.

 

thanks relic1. more work but the safest option i guess.

 

12v- white
ign- black/yellow
acc- yellow

The 12v constant in the ignition harness can support 10a with no problems.
Im sure the heated seats came with an inline fuse on the power? That would be enough for your setup.

If you dont feel confortable going into the ignition harness then you sure can run 12ga wire to the battery.

 

so white is constant
ign is when car is on
acc is when in acc position only or also when car is on?
Thanks for clarifying in advance!
Yes there is a supplied inline fuse and even if there wasn't I would have installed one. Thanks again.
Steve

 

acc- will have power when the car is at acc position and on(running)
yes white will have constant 12v power.

 

Alright, I now have the heater elements for teh seats and am hoping to install them this weekend. I am thinking about tapping into the rear power window wires. I don't have power anything in my 95 civic dx so my questions are:
1. Will the wires be there anyways, like they sometimes are?
2. In the link below, the wires I am thinking about are the yellow or green ones, will simply adding the power relay (with arrow at top) be all that is necessary to make these hot when the car is on and off when the car is off?
http://picasaweb.google.com/st...03314

I THINK this will work as long as the wires and relay are there already. Can anyone confirm this though? The option plugs in the fuse box underdash do not provide enough current for this. Thanks again
Steve

 

those wires will only have power on them when the rear window switch is in the down position.
Not to mention if you have a manual everything car those wires (and switches) do not exist.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">those wires will only have power on them when the rear window switch is in the down position.
Not to mention if you have a manual everything car those wires (and switches) do not exist.</TD></TR></TABLE>

OK thanks mang. That sucks. Are there any wires down by the floor that I can tap into? I can't think of any other ones. I know my fuse box under the dash has a bunch of fuses for circuits that don't even exist in my car, which is why I thought the wiring would be there too. Oh well. If anyone has any other thoughts on tapping instead of going throught the firewall that would be appreciated. I have already put up a firewall soundproofing wall on the engine side and it would be a pita to take that down to run a wire from the battery. Thanks guys
Steve

 

OK I did some more research and found fuse taps. see this link to see what I'm talking about:
http://picasaweb.google.com/st...07490

I have found one switched fuse in my under dash fuse panel, but that will only do for one of my seat heaters. I need one more and do not want to tap into a used circuit. Like I said before I do not have power windows and when I checked the power window and power lock fuses (all of which are 20Amps and I only need 10), only the front left power window fuse was always hot while all the others were dead. I need a switched fuse and am now wondering if I put the power window relay into its slot on that panel if it will switch the fuses on and off with the ignition? I can obviously pick one up for cheap/free at a junkyard, but don't want to make that trip if it won't do a thing. See the other link in my other post to make sense of the power window circuit to see if this new idea would work. Thanks again people. Almost there!
Steve

 

dont use those shitty fuse taps, that is the ghetto fab way. do as stated above, run a line from the positive battery terminal with an inline fuse and use a relay to make it ign switched

 

I really don't understand why you don't want to tap into the ignition harness. It's plugged directly into the fuse panel that you are trying so hard to find a wire from. You could tap BOTH seats into the ign wire on that harness and be perfectly fine. They are 40amp wires I believ so as long as you put a 10amp fuse in line you would be fine. Running a wire to the batter and then hooking up a relay you would still have to tap into an ignition source anyway so why are you trying so hard to make this more difficult?

 

LSVTEC, that is what I was looking for this whole time. I didn't know if you could have 20 AMPS being drawn continuously from that 40 AMP wire. I didn't know if doing so meant the car would run crappy. I guess if it is only used for starting the car then who cares what you do with it after the car is running. Am I correct? I will do this above all other options if that thinking is ok. I have to look at a wiring diagram to make sure which wires to tap into. What's the color of the wire(s)? Thanks again.
Steve

 

Looks like black with yellow stripe OR the solid yellow wires would do. Is that correct? Thanks in advance.
Steve

 

In all honesty I thought you just weren't listening to everyone who was telling you to pull it from the ig harness. Yes it will be fine to run that and won't effect the car. If it were me though I would hook one of the heaters to the reg ig (yellow) and the other heater to the 2nd ig (Black Yellow).

Sorry if I can off as an ******* (I was having a bad day at works )

 

Not at all. You sounded more like "um hello it's easier if you...". So it's all good. Besides I wanted to see as many options before I went for it which will be tonight if all goes well. Thanks again.
Steve

 

OK I tapped into the black wire with yellow stripe and everything works. Thanks for putting up with me people.
Steve