running the 04 dc5, currently have I/RH/E k-pro, and i'm thinking about picking up some ITB's. I am having a hard time choosing boost or staying N/A. From what i've read these should be a good upgrade due to the rsx's high compression, and high redline. I just want some overall facts on what i should expect when i get them installed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joey funk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">running the 04 dc5, currently have I/RH/E k-pro, and i'm thinking about picking up some ITB's. I am having a hard time choosing boost or staying N/A. From what i've read these should be a good upgrade due to the rsx's high compression, and high redline. I just want some overall facts on what i should expect when i get them installed. </TD></TR></TABLE>ITB's are worthless on a street car. get stage 2 cams, RBC, and some tuning

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joey funk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am having a hard time choosing boost or staying N/A.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Supercharge.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nahonda04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ITB's are worthless on a street car. get stage 2 cams, RBC, and some tuning </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep. ITBs are only good in very specific racing applications.

 

I would consider going Supercharged lol... come on you know you want to have some fun lol

 

but ITB's sound so good... and the K20 loves them. If staying N/A I'd say hell yeah. You'd have something more than others. Plenty of people have the RBC and standard bolt ons.

 

It looks so good too:

 

N/A all day..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Type-’S’paz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Plenty of people have the RBC and standard bolt ons. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's because it is a practical bolt-on for a daily driver. ITB's aren't.

Do people forget that you need an air filter (or 4) for ITB's on a daily? Not to mention that you have relative little to no gain (or even a loss) in the midrange over a good intake manifold.

 

Just was about to say the same thing as stated above. Would be quite useless if it's not going to see continuously any track what-so-ever.

 

its gonna be really pricey. but it be bad *** though

 

just get a ported RBC it will probably get you almost the same gains

 

price isn't the issue in this situation. I know there pretty spendy. its always hard making the decisions. personally just thinking about my dc5 with ITB's gives me the chills, i couldn't even imagine the sound of it. and yea with those and and if i pick up a set of brain crower stage 2 cams i think the gains would be great. with a good tune of course I race often and people always ask me if what turbo i have or if i'm sprayin, when i tell them i'm N/A they freak out.. thats the big nudge i have for staying all motor.

 

ITB's arent worthless and can be practical for a DD car. They come stock on a BMW M5 for a reason. Those who haven't been able to make them work properly just dont know what they are doing. Also, there is more than one brand of ITB's which people all to often forget, and maximizing their performance depends on your setup as a whole. The appearance cosmetic forum is filled with cars that are turbo, have itbs, K swaps and still aren't fast. Get it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soulpwr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ITB's arent worthless and can be practical for a DD car. They come stock on a BMW M5 for a reason. Those who haven't been able to make them work properly just dont know what they are doing. Also, there is more than one brand of ITB's which people all to often forget, and maximizing their performance depends on your setup as a whole. The appearance cosmetic forum is filled with cars that are turbo, have itbs, K swaps and still aren't fast. Get it? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I hope you have $$ for proper tuning

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Type-’S’paz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but ITB's sound so good... and the K20 loves them. If staying N/A I'd say hell yeah. You'd have something more than others. Plenty of people have the RBC and standard bolt ons. </TD></TR></TABLE>

a spooling snail sounds better than ITB's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc5tegk20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I hope you have $$ for proper tuning</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's really not expensive if you have a competent tuner.

 

I have a set of HP 54mm itb's on my race motor.

I am more than happy with them. Besides making really good power, they are smooth and idle is verry good.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soulpwr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ITB's arent worthless and can be practical for a DD car. They come stock on a BMW M5 for a reason. Those who haven't been able to make them work properly just dont know what they are doing. Also, there is more than one brand of ITB's which people all to often forget, and maximizing their performance depends on your setup as a whole. The appearance cosmetic forum is filled with cars that are turbo, have itbs, K swaps and still aren't fast. Get it? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Practical? I don't think so. Maybe if you just hit the lottery and have nothing left to spend your time/money on.

A good intake manifold with good tuning will be at least 90% of properly tuned ITB's and it'll be a whole lot cheaper.

If you try hard enough you can make anything work or 'streetable', but that certainly doesn't mean it is the best, or most economical, approach.

Also, BMW engineers their car/motor to with with a certain type of induction system. It's like saying you can turbocharge anything properly because a turbo comes stock on a Mazda.

Don't get me wrong...I'm a fan of ITB's. But they don't really have a practical application on a street car, especially with the quality of Honda OEM intake manifolds.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Practical? I don't think so. Maybe if you just hit the lottery and have nothing left to spend your time/money on.

A good intake manifold with good tuning will be at least 90% of properly tuned ITB's and it'll be a whole lot cheaper.

If you try hard enough you can make anything work or 'streetable', but that certainly doesn't mean it is the best, or most economical, approach.

Also, BMW engineers their car/motor to with with a certain type of induction system. It's like saying you can turbocharge anything properly because a turbo comes stock on a Mazda.

Don't get me wrong...I'm a fan of ITB's. But they don't really have a practical application on a street car, especially with the quality of Honda OEM intake manifolds.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry to tell, you wont get a stock honda manifold to flow 460 cfm's. A good set of ITB's will be streetable and make the power.

About the only manifold that will make better power than the ITB's will be the IPS manifold. But expect to pay $1800 for one.

 

hmm, like i said price isn't a issue, and installing isn't ether. But this is my DD, and if ITB's arn't for a motor thats going to be run all the time maybe they're not the way to go for my car. So i probably wont stay N/A for this dc5, i can start a different project on a ek hatch or something. Thanks a lot for the info guys.

 

E30 M3 also came from the factory with ITBs. I love those cars.


I think ITBs are sick but for my car it would be more baller status than anything. I'll just drop that cash on a JRSC and love the look of people's faces when they see a glorious whinning sound coming from the front of my car. :D

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onefstek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sorry to tell, you wont get a stock honda manifold to flow 460 cfm's. A good set of ITB's will be streetable and make the power.

About the only manifold that will make better power than the ITB's will be the IPS manifold. But expect to pay $1800 for one. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Go ahead and tell us what mods you need to take advantage of this amount of airflow.

There is a misconception that ITB's + standard bolt-ons will yield tons of power over a good Honda OEM IM.

In order to make ITB's really work, you need the cooresponding mods. They just don't add tons of HP by themselves.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Go ahead and tell us what mods you need to take advantage of this amount of airflow.

There is a misconception that ITB's + standard bolt-ons will yield tons of power over a good Honda OEM IM.

In order to make ITB's really work, you need the cooresponding mods. They just don't add tons of HP by themselves.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

No they don't make power just with itb's.

My set up is in my sig. Well most of it.

My steet set up is a stock crv block 9.5:1 cr, stock type s head, k20z1 cams, 54mm itb, one of my own headers, kpro.

It makes 240 whp and 185 wtq, ran a 12.4 @ 110 in a 2350 lbs car.

The same head I have on my car it flows 290 cfm's @ .500" lift with no manifold (just clay) on it.

Put a PRB manifold on the flow bench and it only flows in the 270 cfm's.

A PRC manifold flows 290 cfm's and a RBC flow about 300 cfm's.

Now put any of those manifolds on a stock type s head will hinder the flow of the head to only 270 cfm's.

And thats with no tb on any of the manifolds.

With the itb's it only droped 2 cfm's across the board. And thats with a set of 54mm itb's.

 

Yeah I agree with Stefan... just wait til more people get there hands on a IPS manifold and KXV's.