HELP PLEASE!!! F23A1 HITS A WALL BETWEEN 3-4K
i dont know what is wrong with my engine but it is having some serious issues... first off, ever since i installed a MSD igniting and VAFC-II my car has not ran rite... BUT i have had it running better then recently when i had it tuned... after he tuned it it was running decent but that same day it started effin up and now its like its hitting a wall between 3-4k rpm after 4k it JUMPS into power and just takes off like there's no tomorrow. please someone help me
the guy that tuned it isnt as "honda smart" as he thinks he is but he does know cars for the most part... im thinking of just getting a chipped ECU and seeing if that makes a difference cuz it doesnt mess up all the time... any insight into any possible idea as to what it could be would be GREATLY appreciated.
the guy that tuned it isnt as "honda smart" as he thinks he is but he does know cars for the most part... im thinking of just getting a chipped ECU and seeing if that makes a difference cuz it doesnt mess up all the time... any insight into any possible idea as to what it could be would be GREATLY appreciated.
Uhhh....take it back to your so called "tuner". Its obvious that when he tuned your vafc it doesn't run right, doesn't it make sense that it has to do with his tuning?
If you read the instructions that came with the VAFC it CLEARLY states that caution must be used when adjusting the settings as it can cause serious engine damage.
Second, you say your tuner isnt "honda smart", that makes no diffrence in any part of the automotive industry. An internal combustion engine is the same as the next with the exception of a rotary style, or a diesel, other then that they are all the same. Toyota, Chevy, Nissan, Honda doesnt make a diffrence especially when it comes to tuning.
With all that said, either remove the VAFC, or set the settings back to default, or take the car to someone who knows what they are doing, because I dont think the problem is your tuner not being "honda" smart, I just dont think he is too smart at all.
Second, you say your tuner isnt "honda smart", that makes no diffrence in any part of the automotive industry. An internal combustion engine is the same as the next with the exception of a rotary style, or a diesel, other then that they are all the same. Toyota, Chevy, Nissan, Honda doesnt make a diffrence especially when it comes to tuning.
With all that said, either remove the VAFC, or set the settings back to default, or take the car to someone who knows what they are doing, because I dont think the problem is your tuner not being "honda" smart, I just dont think he is too smart at all.
i appreciate all the insight and as for disconnecting the vafc, i have already tried that and all it did was kick my engine into limp mode red lining at 3k and throw a map sensore CEL... as for when he was tuning it i was unable to be there when he tuned it due to work but my buddy that took it out there said that it was running the best he had ever seen it... then it just started acting like its old self and seem like between 3-4k its either not getting enough or too much fuel and ive messed with the vafc to both extremes of the AF range but no dice with any slight hint of adjustment...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patrick84 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i appreciate all the insight and as for disconnecting the vafc, i have already tried that and all it did was kick my engine into limp mode red lining at 3k and throw a map sensore CEL... as for when he was tuning it i was unable to be there when he tuned it due to work but my buddy that took it out there said that it was running the best he had ever seen it... then it just started acting like its old self and seem like between 3-4k its either not getting enough or too much fuel and ive messed with the vafc to both extremes of the AF range but no dice with any slight hint of adjustment... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you using a plug-n-play harness, or did you splice from the engine harness? Did you just unplug it? If so, you're breaking the connection for those vital sensors, and causing the ECU to go into limp mode like you stated.
Anyway, $10 says he set your VTEC to a static point over 4krpm, thinking it is like every other VTEC system that engages at 5k+ rpm.
The F23 low cam stops making power around 3k rpm, and falls on its face by 4k rpm. If you want to keep the VAFC/MSD, set your VTEC engagement to 2300rpm at high load, and 2500 at low load, and I bet the problem goes away all together. Otherwise, I suggest going back to stock, because those devices are pretty much useless.
Modified by AFAccord at 1:39 PM 10/26/2008
Are you using a plug-n-play harness, or did you splice from the engine harness? Did you just unplug it? If so, you're breaking the connection for those vital sensors, and causing the ECU to go into limp mode like you stated.
Anyway, $10 says he set your VTEC to a static point over 4krpm, thinking it is like every other VTEC system that engages at 5k+ rpm.
The F23 low cam stops making power around 3k rpm, and falls on its face by 4k rpm. If you want to keep the VAFC/MSD, set your VTEC engagement to 2300rpm at high load, and 2500 at low load, and I bet the problem goes away all together. Otherwise, I suggest going back to stock, because those devices are pretty much useless.
Modified by AFAccord at 1:39 PM 10/26/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AFAccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Anyway, $10 says he set your VTEC to a static point over 4krpm, thinking it is like every other VTEC system that engages at 5k+ rpm.
The F23 low cam stops making power around 3k rpm, and falls on its face by 4k rpm. If you want to keep the VAFC/MSD, set your VTEC engagement to 2300rpm at high load, and 2500 at low load, and I bet the problem goes away all together. Otherwise, I suggest going back to stock, because those devices are pretty much useless.
Modified by AFAccord at 1:39 PM 10/26/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, I've $10 on that exact scenario as well
Anyway, $10 says he set your VTEC to a static point over 4krpm, thinking it is like every other VTEC system that engages at 5k+ rpm.
The F23 low cam stops making power around 3k rpm, and falls on its face by 4k rpm. If you want to keep the VAFC/MSD, set your VTEC engagement to 2300rpm at high load, and 2500 at low load, and I bet the problem goes away all together. Otherwise, I suggest going back to stock, because those devices are pretty much useless.
Modified by AFAccord at 1:39 PM 10/26/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, I've $10 on that exact scenario as well
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