Hey guys.. so..I took all my suspension apart (uprights, both front crossmembers/radius rods, Shocks etc.) to change my clutch and replace my ball joints.. so I did it once and got everyhting back together.. I literally took the car off of the jackstands ONCE (never got to drive it) and found out that something was wrong with the clutch so I had to tear it all back apart..

while taking all the suspension back apart.. I noticed some bolts were very loose, almost finger tight.. so this time around, I am planning on using locktite on all the bolts while putting them back together.

MY QUESTION: are there any bolts I should not put locktite on?

I know many people have different opinions ...so to keep it as non-confusing as possible.. maybe we can focus on any problems that would result in a problem instead of opinion alone! (not saying your point-of-view is not welcome)

thanks alot guys!

 

well all the suspension uses a castle nut with a cotter key so no lockite on them

stater bolts or tranny bolts i wouldnt use it there either
clutch bolts none there either


what bolts and or nuts were loose when ya took it back apart? did you tourque them to spec?

 

The only ones I've had problems with are the two front radius rod nuts in the crossmember. After I reinstalled them with fresh bushings, the nuts eventually started walking out, creating a unique 'dynamic toe effect'

 

the radius rod bolts were loose aswell as the bolt holding the shock to the LCA.. and yes I torqued them.. only the ball joints use cotter pins.. so what about everyhting else?

and why not on the clutch? and/or tranny? I was under the impression that those are the bolts that SHOULD have locktite on them ..

thanks for the quick response

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fireant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only ones I've had problems with are the two front radius rod nuts in the crossmember. After I reinstalled them with fresh bushings, the nuts eventually started walking out, creating a unique 'dynamic toe effect' </TD></TR></TABLE>

haha sounds dangerous.. but glad you found that problem.. i didnt actually remove the radius rods from the crossmember.. I just took it off as one unit (xmember/R-rods)

do you know of any reason I shouldnt locktite the others?

thanks for the response!

 

you can use locktite on the trans and clutch if ya want but it be hell getting them back out

and ya your correct only upper, lower and tie rod ends use pins.

 

sounds good.. thanks for the info

 

i wouldnt see any harm in using locktight. i would personally make sure any washers are in the correct spot espesially lock washers. if so then yes go ahead it wont hurt anything. just make sure u clean all surfaces that u are applying lock tight to and make sure u are using a removable lock tight. i believe the red oned is permanant but some one pleas correct me if i am wrong

 

Well...if you look at some of the bolts they have a nylon insert on the shaft. So if it makes ya feel better you could put loctite on those bolts since the insert won't serve it's locking function as well as it did when installed fresh, but the repair manual doesn't really say anything regarding using locking compounds. I'm partial to uber clean suspension setups (given I've rebuilt a CRX's twice now) so I actually bought some new bolts, and I can tell ya the new ones do not have that little insert but are coated in this translucent green stuff that I figured served as an anti-rust agent and maybe locking compound. It seems several folks even put anti-seize on their bolts to make removals easier, so I wonder about the need for loctite. And, as far as those front radius rod nuts, I believe the repair manual specifies they be replaced since they are one use lock nuts (has a metal rim that digs into the rod shaft on install), yet I would think nylok nuts could replace them as a more reusable option.

 

i would use the GREEN loctite because it's removable. maybe blue, i forget. definitely do NOT use the red...you'll regret it later. torque specs are key

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxsirg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I actually bought some new bolts, and I can tell ya the new ones do not have that little insert but are coated in this translucent green stuff that I figured served as an anti-rust agent and maybe locking compound. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That "green stuff" is hi-temp urea grease, it's a long lasting lubricant, not a locking compound.

If everything is torqued properly, than there is no reason to use a locking compound.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90sedan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That "green stuff" is hi-temp urea grease, it's a long lasting lubricant, not a locking compound.

If everything is torqued properly, than there is no reason to use a locking compound. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Really? It's not greasy at all but a hard adherent film. I'm not saying your wrong, just didn't seem like grease.

 

Urea grease is used as a lubricant for metal to metal contact points, and a light layer is applied to some parts from the factory, another example would be an oil pump. While it may not be very greasy, it probably only has a very small layer that was applied years ago when that bolt was manufactured.

And it's the only green lubricant/grease that Honda produces.

 

Hmm...I dunno...I think this is more of a hard coating. Ah...but I'm not able to get pics where I am now. Another time, another thread I suppose.

 

wow guys thanks for all the replies!

After my op I got the clutch in and started to bolt up the transmission (forgot to put the flywheel cover on so thats tomorrow!)

I used the red loctite on the flywheel / pressure plate bolts.. but i will be sure to use a different kind on the suspension because I dont want to regret it later

I am going to get new coilovers soon so thanks for the heads up!


crxsirg , 90sedan , zrickety , tico , sleepingciv , fireant

thabk you for all of your replies.. please keep the info comming as it will take me a few days to complete my re-install

 

im not trying to me rude or mean just that u had used the red locktight on clutch bolts might have not been the smartest idea. next time when u service ur clutch it will be the biggest pain in the *** to break those apart not to mention that its already fustrating unbolting those and keeping the crank still. i wish u the best of luck bro..;et us all know how everything turns out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tico &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im not trying to me rude or mean just that u had used the red locktight on clutch bolts might have not been the smartest idea. next time when u service ur clutch it will be the biggest pain in the *** to break those apart not to mention that its already fustrating unbolting those and keeping the crank still. i wish u the best of luck bro..;et us all know how everything turns out</TD></TR></TABLE>

I understand.. I have never dealt with loctite before.. and this clutch has ben such a pain in the ***.. I just wanted everything to be solid.. I used an impact gun to remove the bolts.. so if I ever need to again, i hope that will work okay.. if not - lesson learned.

thanks for the feedback! (no offense taken!)

 

if you ever replace the pressure plate or clutch again, you will be lucky if those bolts don't break off. but i've seen red-loctited bolts come out before, so it is possible. good luck!
in the future, just use a good torque wrench and factory specs...99.9% of the time they stay put

 

There's no reason to use loctite on your suspension parts. In fact, there really isn't much on a car that I would use loctite on other than wheel studs for spacers and things like that.

 

ACT clutch company actually recommends a
"high-temperature thread locking compound for performance applications"..

One of my friends pressure plate bolts backed out
and cut a hole in the transmission case:


Applying heat will aid in removing bolts coated with loc-tite
and as long as the flywheel isn't aluminum you should be fine..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88DXCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ACT clutch company actually recommends a
"high-temperature thread locking compound for performance applications"..

One of my friends pressure plate bolts backed out
and cut a hole in the transmission case:


Applying heat will aid in removing bolts coated with loc-tite
and as long as the flywheel isn't aluminum you should be fine..</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the info 88DXCRX

zrickety had me scared bacause I can seee them breaking off now haha..

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SovXietday &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There's no reason to use loctite on your suspension parts. In fact, there really isn't much on a car that I would use loctite on other than wheel studs for spacers and things like that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the info.. but like I said.. my radius rod bolts were loose as well as a few other.. but i agree that the correct torque settings should be sufficient!

thanks again guys!