I'm changing my Si rear brakes in a couple of days and I was wondering if anyone had any pictures or diagrams that can help me out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

Its pretty straight forward job.

~chock front wheels, brake rear lug nuts loose, put car on jack stands, dis engage the parking brake, remove back tires.
~Remove caliper. Not the part the caliper is mounted to.
~Remove the old pads and install the new ones. Make sure you apply anti squeal to the shims and that you reinstall the pad retainer springs. The inner pad is the one with the wear indicator on it. And it will have a little bump on the back that will have to go into the + on the caliper's piston.
~To compress the caliper piston you will have to screw it in. That is why it has the "+" notched in it. Make sure the MC does not overflow while doing this.
~Ensure that the pins that the caliper slides on move freely. If not clean and grease them.
~Reinstall caliper. (17ftlbs)
~Bleed your brakes
~Adjust your parking brake.
~Reinstall your back tires, take it off of the jack stands and clean up.

 

^Very nice write up. Just a quick question about making sure that the MC doesn't overflow. What are some ways to prevent that and why does that happen?

 

When you compress the cylinder in the caliper so it will fit the new (thicker) brake pads brake fluid will be forced back upstream to the master cylinder.

So if your master cylinder is full at the high mark it may over flow.

What I do is I take a old turkey baster and I siphon most of the old fluid out of the MC leaving only about 1/4" left in to bottom.

Your going to bleed the brakes any way so why push the old fluid that is in the MC through the system.
When I go to bleed I just set the bottle of new brake fluid on top of the MC. Like you would an arrow head water bottle on top of a cooler. That way you will run less risk of running the MC dry while bleeding.

 

nice^^

 

Like these guys are saying, the only tricky part is that rear caliper piston. What I found that works, is to take a long *** flat file to turn the + in the piston. It will give you more leverage. Rememeber to make it go in to turn it counterclockwise.

 

No, you have to rotate the caliper piston clockwise , not counter clockwise.

 

I would open the bleeder when you do, as not to shoot deposits or other gunky **** from the caliper back into the system. Calipers are the lowest spot in the system, so that's where deposits gather. You'll want to bleed out your brakes afterward, unless you can ensure you don't get air in there.