Bought a 83mm B18C1 block from Laskey Racing about a year ago to replace my B16. Went for Benson sleeves, CP pistons, Pauter rods, ACL bearings, ARP head studs etc Cometic Head gasket all assembled by them and then shipped.

This was mated to a ITR head freshly skimmed.

Ever since the engine was put together at a local garage it has used water. The water has gone in the oil as I can look under the oil cap and there is custard but this comes and goes. After driving the car hard there is less but easy driving there is more. Probably the extra head is making it evaporate?

After the garage put the engine together they tuned it immediately. The car made 386hp at the fly with a GT2871R turbo and reads 200psi in all 4 cylinders.

I dont have any water or oil leaks btw.

So i thought it was the Cometic HG. Replaced this firstly for another Cometic Head gasket and then with an 83mm bored Honda HG. When I fitted the Honda HG i had the head skimmed and pressure tested. No problems found.

I think with the Honda HG it is using slightly less water but it used around 1 overflow reservoir every week which is a fair amount!

So today I was talking to CPL Racing (one of the best UK tuners http://www.cplracing.co.uk) as i was thinking of having the car remapped there in a couple of months. I asked him what he thought and he immediately said it is likely one of the sleeves has dropped or it hasn't sealed properly where they are pressed in. He said he had had exactly the same issue before with Golden Eagle sleeves. This is VERY concerning for me.

So what do/ can I do??? I can't afford to build another engine, and this engine is now junk and is worthless.

Now I went with Laskey because I thought they were/ are the best at what they do and i spent a lot of money ($5000) with them because I wanted a solid engine.

 

so the engine runs good, it has good compression, and it makes good power..... just add water and dont worry about it if its been doing it for a year its obviously not getting any worse. Also is just your overflow loosing coolant, or will it drain from your radiator as well?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rota92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mike will take care of you, please give him a call and I'm sure he will work it out. He is a stand up guy and great for our community. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I am confused, you say, "all assembled by them and then shipped"... then you say "Ever since the engine was put together at a local garage it has used water" and "After the garage put the engine together they tuned it immediately"???

Which is it, Laskey assembled the entire long block and you did nothing but have it put in the car or did your local "garage" put the engine together? Cause from your post it looks like the local shop did?

You obviously have a headgasket issue... have you checked anything before you made the conclusion it is a block problem though. Like rechecked that the head/ block surface is flat with a true straight edge? How do the bad headgasket look when you replace them, any tracks to maybe tell where there was a issue?

Also whats the tune like, you sure your not lifting the head from alot of timing or whatnot head stud issue, I say that since it sounds like it pressure checked (I asume that means leakdown and compression both) out fine? What did they torque the head studs too on assembly, stock or arp spec with moly?

I would not be so quick to jump at the motor being junk... Mike Laskey/ Laskey Racing/ Benson do top notch work FOR SURE, they will help you out I would bet but you might wanna do some problem solving first before you get too carried away.

EDIT: btw I ask the questions and whatnot, not because I dont believe you could have an issue with the block... the world is not perfect and either is Mike... **** does happen. Its just extremely rare on his stuff from what I know personally and have seen here over the years.

He will definately help you work through it I would bet, the customer service is top rate and Mike has helped me with questions many times on the fly when I call.


Modified by twkdCD595 at 12:06 PM 10/20/2008

 

how does the oil look when u change it? is it very thin and more brownish rather than black? does it have a weird smell? it it is, then most likely the sleeve sank. And i would def worry about it. this can lead to pre-mature bearing wear which can lead to a spin bearing.

do u have alot of blowby?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Coreymdean &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so the engine runs good, it has good compression, and it makes good power..... just add water and dont worry about it if its been doing it for a year its obviously not getting any worse. Also is just your overflow loosing coolant, or will it drain from your radiator as well?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I will worry about it! I only driven it for about 4 months over the past year. If there is a lot of water in my oil then eventually i've basically got half oil and water mixed which im sure bearings are not going to like!

If i dont fill up my over flow then eventually the water in the rad system gets loads of air and the car will start to over heat. So yeah it will drain from the rad system.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by twkdCD595 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am confused, you say, "all assembled by them and then shipped"... then you say "Ever since the engine was put together at a local garage it has used water" and "After the garage put the engine together they tuned it immediately"???

Which is it, Laskey assembled the entire long block and you did nothing but have it put in the car or did your local "garage" put the engine together? Cause from your post it looks like the local shop did?

You obviously have a headgasket issue... have you checked anything before you made the conclusion it is a block problem though. Like rechecked that the head/ block surface is flat with a true straight edge? How do the bad headgasket look when you replace them, any tracks to maybe tell where there was a issue?

Also whats the tune like, you sure your not lifting the head from alot of timing or whatnot head stud issue, I say that since it sounds like it pressure checked (I asume that means leakdown and compression both) out fine? What did they torque the head studs too on assembly, stock or arp spec with moly?

I would not be so quick to jump at the motor being junk... Mike Laskey/ Laskey Racing/ Benson do top notch work FOR SURE, they will help you out I would bet but you might wanna do some problem solving first before you get too carried away.

EDIT: btw I ask the questions and whatnot, not because I dont believe you could have an issue with the block... the world is not perfect and either is Mike... **** does happen. Its just extremely rare on his stuff from what I know personally and have seen here over the years.

He will definately help you work through it I would bet, the customer service is top rate and Mike has helped me with questions many times on the fly when I call.


Modified by twkdCD595 at 12:06 PM 10/20/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

The block was fully assembled by Laskey. I literally took delivery of it and gave it to my local garage who fitted the head with the cometic HG and stuck it in the car. They tuned in on the dyno. It always used water from day one when it was on the dyno i had to fill up the over flow so the tune has nothing to do with it.

If i dont boost and drive the car slow everywhere the car will still use lots of water so its not like im ragging it to death and its then using a lot of water.

I then replaced the HG 2 times myself. Skimmed and pressure tested. ARP head studs torqued to about 80 lbs with engine oil.

I've never checked if the deck was straight when installing the head. I thought if the head was skimmed and the block is brand new why would there be any issues.

I know Mike does quality work thats why i went with him and i do know mistakes happen. Im just gutted it looks like its an issue with the block as I simply cannot afford to buy another one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how does the oil look when u change it? is it very thin and more brownish rather than black? does it have a weird smell? it it is, then most likely the sleeve sank. And i would def worry about it. this can lead to pre-mature bearing wear which can lead to a spin bearing.

do u have alot of blowby?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes the car has A LOT of blowby at idle. When you take the oil cap off it blows up a lot. i pm'd mike a while ago and he said this is normal.

I'll change the oil this week and see what it looks like.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK4Vti &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The block was fully assembled by Laskey. I literally took delivery of it and gave it to my local garage who fitted the head with the cometic HG and stuck it in the car. They tuned in on the dyno. It always used water from day one when it was on the dyno i had to fill up the over flow so the tune has nothing to do with it.

If i dont boost and drive the car slow everywhere the car will still use lots of water so its not like im ragging it to death and its then using a lot of water.

I then replaced the HG 2 times myself. Skimmed and pressure tested. ARP head studs torqued to about 80 lbs with engine oil.

I've never checked if the deck was straight when installing the head. I thought if the head was skimmed and the block is brand new why would there be any issues.

I know Mike does quality work thats why i went with him and i do know mistakes happen. Im just gutted it looks like its an issue with the block as I simply cannot afford to buy another one.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

That could be part of your problem... correct me if I am wrong but my ARP's were more like 80ft lbs with MOLY not oil. With oil you have to torque MUCH higher than with moly to achieve the same clamping force, per ARP.

Agian someone correct me if I am wrong.


Modified by twkdCD595 at 12:55 PM 10/20/2008

 

I torqued the head studs to 80 or 85 (which ever one it said on the instructions that come with them), which is correct for engine oil. Its much less with the Moly lube that comes with them. And i did them in the correct order too.

 

Gotcha I forget your running a smaller stud in the b series than me as well so thats why the numbers look off.

Just trying to cover the basics stuff... instead of just going right to it being a dropd sleeve.

 

Yeah thats fine mate. I really really do wish its me and i've not torqued something down properly or something. It would be great if it was a simple fix. Thats why i've posted on here to see if there is something i might have missed and its not a block issue.

 

80 ft-lbs is fine. i did my head like that all the time with zero problems. Sounds to me like u have a set of bad sleeves.

Alot of blowby is def not normal. if ur oil cap fills up with white foamy oil residue then u have a bad sleeve. i've seen it way too many times

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">80 ft-lbs is fine. i did my head like that all the time with zero problems. Sounds to me like u have a set of bad sleeves.

Alot of blowby is def not normal. if ur oil cap fills up with white foamy oil residue then u have a bad sleeve. i've seen it way too many times</TD></TR></TABLE>

could just as easily be a headgasket... will do the exact same thing anytime you get coolant/ water in the oil.

rota is right, in the end you need to call mike cause its just guess work until you tear into it or whatnot.

 

Hi Guys,

Been working on the car with Matt since all this turbo started about 3 years ago, matt has tried 2 cosmetic and 2 honda headgaskets.....

 

Try Bars Leak, or an additive like it, if you don't have it there. See if this greatly reduces your problem.

 

What additive will it be advertised as? Rad Weld???

 

Just like Ryan said, call Mike.

After bouncing around between different builders, hurrendous issues, and way too much headache, we decided to start working with Mike and haven't looked back since. He's a standup guy, and won't leave a customer hanging.

 

Not knocking his work at all!!! It is just difficult because we are a few miles away from you crazy kids... this is a good time for Mike to show his customer service off.... free advertising is best aint it... as i said, we aint trying to make anyone look bad just want the car running as a honda should

 

Any time there is a concern, my email address is laskeyracing@gmail.com and 714-688-0222 is the shop number. I have no problems talking with you guys either way. We do pride our selfs with our work and would love to help you get to the bottom of this. I think what he was saying was I built the bottom end and his shop installed the cycl. head there. One can not assume any problems until we go down check lists. Even if a block does drop a sleeve, and this is any mfg. of sleeving it does not mean the engine is junk. It just needs to be fixed. I know GE Carries a 1 year warranty and Benson carries a lifetime on his Signature series sleeves. People who believe in there stuff will give you a warranty in case there are issues like these. So Matt, you are not alone here or in the dark...how can I help you?

 

No offense, but u have had the motor over a year, and you want Mike to step up too something a year later. Mike did the bottom end, whats too say the head wasnt warped? or their is problems with the head?
I think its wrong for you to come make a thread without trying to resolve or talk to mike, he is on h-t you could have Pmed him also,before making a thread about him.

 

what type of coolent do you use and how much with water?

that "custard" gunk on rad cap ive seen it happen on cars that just use pure water and not coolent

But like everyone else has said email/call laskey

 

Hi mike,

sorry about all this.... The thread was not at all meant to drag your name down as your work is superb... I am trying to get matt on the phone but as it is 2300 here i am struggling.... Matt mentioned that he called you a while back, we just wanted to help other people in a similar situation with there engine, i have helped matt with the build so if you could run through what to check then hopefully we can get this sorted....

james

 

I'm interested to see what's the outcome of this !!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ninesecrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any time there is a concern, my email address is laskeyracing@gmail.com and 714-688-0222 is the shop number. I have no problems talking with you guys either way. We do pride our selfs with our work and would love to help you get to the bottom of this. I think what he was saying was I built the bottom end and his shop installed the cycl. head there. One can not assume any problems until we go down check lists. Even if a block does drop a sleeve, and this is any mfg. of sleeving it does not mean the engine is junk. It just needs to be fixed. I know GE Carries a 1 year warranty and Benson carries a lifetime on his Signature series sleeves. People who believe in there stuff will give you a warranty in case there are issues like these. So Matt, you are not alone here or in the dark...how can I help you?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hi Mike

Just tried to call the shop but you must have left for the day. Not sure what the time is over there so i'll call again tomorrow.

Im not trying to knock your business that's not what the thread was about. I was trying to get advice as to where to go next. Anything I could try etc. I'm not trying to put a bad word against you in a public forum i'm simply looking for advice.

I spoke to you a while ago about it and you sold me a Honda head gasket but that was the last time I spoke to you.

I've only done about 3000 miles on this engine so for now i've stopped driving it. Im very reluctant to drive as i dont want to cause any possible damage as you can imagine.