<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18c1turboedEK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No offense, but u have had the motor over a year, and you want Mike to step up too something a year later. Mike did the bottom end, whats too say the head wasnt warped? or their is problems with the head?
I think its wrong for you to come make a thread without trying to resolve or talk to mike, he is on h-t you could have Pmed him also,before making a thread about him. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think it has been closer to 3 years ago the engine was built? Not a problem though, this is where customer service comes into play. These are the reasons I recommend to everyone when getting something done like this that it is not a fly by night shop because years down the road...I am still going to be here to help Same with Benson and his sleeving, they were the first shop to install iron ductile sleeves in a Honda and still on top of the game We will always be here to help!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK4Vti &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hi Mike

Just tried to call the shop but you must have left for the day. Not sure what the time is over there so i'll call again tomorrow.

Im not trying to knock your business that's not what the thread was about. I was trying to get advice as to where to go next. Anything I could try etc. I'm not trying to put a bad word against you in a public forum i'm simply looking for advice.

I spoke to you a while ago about it and you sold me a Honda head gasket but that was the last time I spoke to you.

I've only done about 3000 miles on this engine so for now i've stopped driving it. Im very reluctant to drive as i dont want to cause any possible damage as you can imagine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry about missing paths, I am back in the shop though if it is not too late over there? I did not take it as a bash, I understand your concerns and hard earned money that has gone into your project. Let's work together on this and see how we can get you back on the road in style

 

was the cometic gasket an OEM style or the O-ring one? the O-ring ones do leak.

 

Ive got a benson sleeved block unused so far...im in for the watch so iff it happens too me..i know about what it is

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ninesecrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think it has been closer to 3 years ago the engine was built? Not a problem though, this is where customer service comes into play. These are the reasons I recommend to everyone when getting something done like this that it is not a fly by night shop because years down the road...I am still going to be here to help Same with Benson and his sleeving, they were the first shop to install iron ductile sleeves in a Honda and still on top of the game We will always be here to help!

Sorry about missing paths, I am back in the shop though if it is not too late over there? I did not take it as a bash, I understand your concerns and hard earned money that has gone into your project. Let's work together on this and see how we can get you back on the road in style </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not sure if your thinking about someone else (i know you sell a lot of engines!) but i bought the block from you September last year and it was in the car October last year. But probably only actually driven it for 3 months this year due to these issues.

But thanks for the positive replys. I really hope we can sort this out. I'll give you a call later on today when America wakes up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">was the cometic gasket an OEM style or the O-ring one? the O-ring ones do leak.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think the Cometic HG was o-ringed but it the one Mike sold me with the block. But i've tried another Cometic and then a Honda gasket since with the same issues.

 

Just been looking round Honda-tech for some ideas. Came across a couple of threads about dowel height. The ones that go between the head and block.

Now the head has been skimmed slightly twice (not sure how much) and the block from Mike would have been skimmed (i would have thought?) but i haven't shortened the dowel height.

Could this be my issue? Anyone has this problem before? Are the OEM dowels the exact height for the OEM head block height or are they slightly shorter?

BTW i dont get white smoke coming from the exhaust and compression is 200psi in each cylinder.

edit: Just looking at this discussion it doesn't LOOK like it would be an issue

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=357657



Modified by EK4Vti at 10:34 AM 10/21/2008

 

It's probably not the dowels, especially if you are just surfacing the head for flatness. I have a head that has been seriously cut to raise the CR and it works fine with stock dowels.

When you had the head off, did you check the sleeve height with a machinist straight edge? I had an old sleeved B16 block that the sleeves were a little wonky in and it used to give me some problems. I eventually got it fixed, but I got really good at replacing head gaskets for a bit. The other thing that I'd check would be the seal at the bottom of the sleeves, I've seen people bore through to an oil or water passage, crack the block when pressing the sleeves in, etc. I'd definitely pressure test the water jacket and see if it leaks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's probably not the dowels, especially if you are just surfacing the head for flatness. I have a head that has been seriously cut to raise the CR and it works fine with stock dowels.

When you had the head off, did you check the sleeve height with a machinist straight edge? I had an old sleeved B16 block that the sleeves were a little wonky in and it used to give me some problems. I eventually got it fixed, but I got really good at replacing head gaskets for a bit. The other thing that I'd check would be the seal at the bottom of the sleeves, I've seen people bore through to an oil or water passage, crack the block when pressing the sleeves in, etc. I'd definitely pressure test the water jacket and see if it leaks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No when the head was off i didnt check the sleeve height. I think what im going to do is pressure test the coolant system and see what happens. Should i do this with a hot or cold engine or both? Then probably take the head off and check the deck for straightness.

How would i pressure test just the water jacket to see if its leaking where the sleeves are pressed in?

 

Hi Mike

Been trying to call you this afternoon... what is the best way to get hold of you or is it best to pm you my number?

Got some time free tonight so wanted to try everything you were going to propose...


Thanks


Modified by EK4Vti at 7:08 PM 10/21/2008

 

sorry, i didnt see that it was going into your oil... i thought it was just using some coolant and not going into the oil. different matter

 

Run a leak down test

 

Spoke to Mike and is a really sound guy, gave me some tips and tests to do... working on car now will keep posted...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK4Vti &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Spoke to Mike and is a really sound guy, gave me some tips and tests to do... working on car now will keep posted...</TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds like you're moving forward.

 

i plan on getting a block from mike here soon.. ive heard nothing but good from him havent really seen any issues come up... hope it works out for you

 

Pressure testing the coolant system should ideally be done with the motor hot.

 

Me and Mike spoke about what could possibly cause the problem. So first thing i've tried is change the oil. When i drained the old oil it was a water oil mix. Very black. And the bottom of the valve cover was covered in custard. Not good.

I just hope this oil water mix has not knackered my main and rod bearings. I'll probably pull the oil pan later this week to see if there is any remains.

So anyway a fresh gallon of oil is in. I've drained the coolant and flushed it. Put a mix of 60% water 40% coolant in the motor. And i've added some rad weld (you guys call it Bars Leak). One of the possibilities is that where the sleeve is pressed into the block there could be a very tiny gap. So fingers crossed this is an easy fix.

I've just done about a half an hour drive and repeatedly checked under the oil cap and there is nothing there. Doesn't seem to have used any coolant from the over flow reservoir.

But its early days and i'll post the outcome on here in the next week.


In regards to Mike he is a stand up guy (as many of you said earlier) and he couldn't want to help me more. Very impressed with the support Laskey give.

 

Water has a fairly low boiling point alone this is why gycol is neccissary to raise the boiling point as well as a proper working radiator cap as pressure increases the boiling point aswell. I wouldn't be surprised if this was the cause of your issue! Water alone unless de-onodized or disstilled can cause impurties which can further help corrosion to coolant passages, radiators and anything esle it comes in cotact with.

You will have to check the deck of the block for straightness and across the sleeves aswell as the cylinder head.

 

I had my GE sleeves leak alot of water from the lower sleeve seal. GE recomended bars leak (a product name) in all of their sleeved blocks.. It leaked alot and after we put int the bars leak we had zeroe issues.. I am apsolutily stunned about that.. I have heard later that even new cars have that put in them from the manufacturer just to make sure that there is no leakage in any hoses etc..

I do know how it feels like when stuff is bought from the other side of the world and it turns up beeing the shop in US fault.. I have bought 3 b-series newly sleved blocks that needed linebore. One had a cracked water pump housing and one could tell it was cracked before it was cleaned by the sleeving company, and my own block leaked water.. Not fun.. Non of the blocks camed from Laskey though..


Modified by The sweed at 11:13 PM 10/21/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arc_55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Water has a fairly low boiling point alone this is why gycol is neccissary to raise the boiling point as well as a proper working radiator cap as pressure increases the boiling point aswell. I wouldn't be surprised if this was the cause of your issue! Water alone unless de-onodized or disstilled can cause impurties which can further help corrosion to coolant passages, radiators and anything esle it comes in cotact with.

You will have to check the deck of the block for straightness and across the sleeves aswell as the cylinder head.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wasn't just using water. I was using the proper mix of water and coolant. I have always done this.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The sweed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had my GE sleeves leak alot of water from the lower sleeve seal. GE recomended bars leak (a product name) in all of their sleeved blocks.. It leaked alot and after we put int the bars leak we had zeroe issues.. I am apsolutily stunned about that.. I have heard later that even new cars have that put in them from the manufacturer just to make sure that there is no leakage in any hoses etc..

I do know how it feels like when stuff is bought from the other side of the world and it turns up beeing the shop in US fault.. I have bought 3 b-series newly sleved blocks that needed linebore. One had a cracked water pump housing and one could tell it was cracked before it was cleaned by the sleeving company, and my own block leaked water.. Not fun.. Non of the blocks camed from Laskey though..


Modified by The sweed at 11:13 PM 10/21/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

Mike was saying that car manufactorers use Bars Leaks in some of their brand new cars which amazed me too. But if this fixes my engine like it did your then i'll be very pleased! Did a quick 10 min drive to work this morning and their was still not custard under the oil cap. Its looking good so far but dont want to tempt fait!

But if I dont have issues until the end of the week then i'll pull the oil pan and pray that there is no bearing damage!

 

I hope this works out ok for you mate.

 

I was 99% sure it would fix your problem

 

I just noticed this thread and do to my previous experiences with Laskey Racing specifically Mike's father I had to post up. About 2 or so years ago I had a 83mm block fully built. Same build as the OPs. I had my local shop put a head on that laskey had portflow work for me. Used a GE 83mm head gasket.

Well once on the dyno we had an issue with white smoke.

To spare you all the details the motor was toast after 1000 miles. Before we pulled the head Earl was very helpful in diagnosing things. He even suggested putting a machinest straight edge on the block to check for a sunk sleeve. Never once did I feel I was going to get screwed over after talking with Earl. We eventually pulled the head and found a dime size chunk melted off the valve relief guide on a piston and signs of detonation on all of them.

I ended up sending the block back. We decided to play it safe and go 84mm. I won't go into the details for buisness sakes but lets just say I got a SWEET deal I think on a 2nd rebuild and parts. Earl and Laskey Racing made my bad situation not so bad.

We later found the problem (which I'm embaressed to admit was my fault....) and everything has been running at 500+ without problems ever since.

Laskey Racing = THE BEST CUSTOMER SERVICE in the tuning scene.

 

I had Laskey sleeve a block for me about 2-2.5 years ago and assembly it.

B18C5 2.0L

Had to send it back twice for him/them to resolve coolant leaking from the base of the sleeves, would pull about 4oz of coolant during a full cooldown (i.e. overnight)

Earl claimed that a "new process" was used on the third attempt which, btw is still running fine as of now.

Just an FYI

 

Pulled the oil pan today and all is fine. No metal shaving or swarf in the pan so all is good.

Just got to get it back on now and its about 5C outside and pitch black with just a torch LOL