Well i got a couple problems with my hatch today but wiring isnt really one of my strong points.
1st problem the driver side signal lights do not blink at all(front n back) but when i turn the switch for the left signals the dash starts to blink n idle gets a lil erractic also the fuse for the turn signals back up lights blows out from time to time.
2nd problem hazrds also do not work keeps blowing the fuse out when i press the switch.
3rd problem their seems to b a broken ground wire under the dash its right next to the under dash fuse box bolted down to the metal dash support beam and cant find the other half of it.
4th problem i heard the key warning buzzer earlier in the day and now it dont work when i leave the key in cuz of this i locked the door n left the key in the car lol

Any feedback be appreciated I can olny make right turns for fear of being clipped by the boys for not using my signals

 

start picking apart the harnesses close to that broken ground wire, that is possibly causing all three problems. You have to find the ground and re-ground it.

 

also check the flasher unit

 

You need to get a manual that has the electrical diagrams in the back of the book. The electrical chapter will give you a broken down circiut diagram that you can follow. These types of diagrams tell you what color wire the systems is running on, type and number fuse the system uses. With these simple diagrams you can troubleshoot most electrical problems associated with chassis wiring problems. In the front of the electrical chapter there is sometimes a generic trobleshooting guide that will help you. You can use a test light to figure out if you have power on the wire. A test light is a 12volt bulb with two wires attached to it. One attached to the metal housing and the other attached to the bottom.

Electrical problem are by nature a real headache, especially the intermittent ones. I follow the simple rule of KISS ( Keep It Simple Stupid ). Like Crx Jimmy says swap out the flasher unit first and repair the ground wire (IndySporty). All your problems may be linked to a bad ground wire.

PLEASE DO NOT put a larger amp fuse in place for a small amp system just because you can get the system to work that way. It a sure way way to completely fry your entire wiring loom from one end to the other, it will usually happen in the worst of places and weather conditions.

 

Dumbass question where is the flasher unit located

 

any1 else have experience wit the problems im having

 

you need to buy a multimeter and ohms out the wires that are giving you trouble...
its like 100$ for a decent one....will save u time and money in the long run

ohms the wire by going to each end of the wire and place a probe at each end...

should read .4-.2 ohms if the wire is good.

 

more like $20 for a decent one... you just need to read volts and omhs. No point getting a expensive multimeter.

Yeah, try and find the other end of the ground wire. Or if it is on the harness just ground it out and replace the fuses, and see if it works. If not, time to bust out the ole multimeter.

 

Your Turn signal/hazard relay(flasher unit) is located under the dash left side on the interior fuse box. Your turn signal and hazard light switch problem may be one problem. If you can't access a maintenance manual, you can probably pull one up at alldata.com.

 

Ok i reconnected the ground dat i found dat was cut in half but it still didnt fix the the problem but the key warning buzzer works now.Also along wit the other half of the black ground their is a blue wire also cut is dat also a ground they are together in the same loom i found them behind the carpet right by the hood latch.Now when i signal for the left the fuse just blows out completly and the hazard still blows its fuse i tried swapping switches same thing.Could it be the flasher relay but if it was the relay no signals would work at all the right side of my car is normal its the complete left side

 

Okay you now repaired the black wire correct????? The other blue wire in the loom is it solid blue or is it blue base with a colored strip?????? Don't connect the two if you don't know what systems the belong too. Swapping out the hazzard switch didn't help, so you still need to look at the turn signal/hazzard relay under the dash in the fuse box; see if that fixes the problem. The only two other components in the system that are common are the turn signal switch and the side marker relay circuit in the integrated control unit. Another thing that you can do is disconnect the front and rear side marker lights(park lights) at the bulb connector.

Your left/right front marker lights are tied through the integrated control unit. and the rear side markers get power directly from the dash fuse box through a 10amp fuse.

You need to borrow a volt meter and a test light. These two items will help you out in determining voltage, amperage, and resistance (voltmeter). The test light will help in finding power on the wire.

Hope these steps help. Post a message after you do some troubleshooting and I will monitor this message.

 

Yes i reconnected the black ground and the wire that was with the black wire was a solid blue wire.I took the relay out an noticed one side looked melted so i took the cover off the relay and noticed the inside was slightly melted and burnt so i ordered a new one from majestic the question now iz wat cause the relay to burn out like that????If the relay doesnt do anything how can i go checkingto see if the turn siganl switch works properly i have fluke meter and trying to get familiar with how it works.Will let you know wat happenes after i receive the new relay

 

Okay before you go and plug in the relay, you need to test the relay hold pins. First thing take a flashlight and shine it into the relay recepticle. look for any burnt areas in and around the pins. Second with a mirror or if you can, with you eyes, look behind the interior fuse box where the relay wires connect. If you find major damage you are going to have to replace the fuse box. If you can pull the nuts off the side mounts and pull the box down some. Make sure you have the battery disconnected.

Here is a crash course on the fluke meter. The letter "V" indicates volts. "V" with a swiggle line by it is AC Voltage, "V" with a straight line with a a couple of dash lines underneath it is DC Voltage; same for the letter "A" symbol, but you are reading amperage (current). The symbol that looks like a last letter in the Greek alphabet; think college Greek row houses "Animal House" with John Beluchi, Omega is the symbol for resistance. When you do a continuity check, you are checking resistance.

The inside of the relay plug-in will have three posts in it. one: vertical and two that are horizontal. The vertical post should be labeled "L", the bottom horizontal post should be labeled "E", and the top horizontal post should be labeled "B".

Now with the relay removed, switch the fluke meter to read resistance. Take the red lead; which is connected up to the red plug-in port of the meter, and connect it to post "E" of the relay recepticle on the fuse box. Then connect the black lead; which should be connected up to the black plug-in port of the meter, to a good ground point on the car chassis. You should be reading zero resistance on the meter. If you have high readings, you might have a bad ground. Follow the wire off the back of the "E" post to where it bolts up to the chassis; repair the wire.

Test two: with the ignition switch on, connect the red lead to the "B" post and black lead to a ground point; you should be reading battery voltage. If you are not then you have a blown fuse, and a open wire (wire not connect, like your black wire was before you repaired it) on the wire connected to the "B" post. Inspect the wire until you find the problem.

Test Three: You'll need a jumper wire; a 12 gauge wire that is stripped at both ends. Connect one side of the jumper to the "B" post and the other end to "L" post. Turn on the hazard switch; your hazard lights should come on. If you don't have lights flashing you will have a blown fuse on the hazard lights, a blown light some where in the hazard light circuit, a faulty hazard switch, a faulty side maker relay circuit, or a opening in the hazard light circuit.

Test four: With the jumper still attached to the "B" post and "L" post and ignition switch ON. Move the turn signal switch to the Left or Right position. Your turn signal lights should come on repective of the position of the turn signal switch. If not, you have a faulty turn signal switch.

Get back with me after these tests and I will talk you through a Turn Signal Switch Test.

Sorry for being long winded.


Modified by Icaras at 7:13 PM 10/22/2008

 

Did the test as described today here are my results

1.Resistance-Got a high reading of 12-14 ohms o i looked for the ground location and it wuz under the hood on the top right next to the headlight.It had maybe 6 grounds going into it so i sanded it down the frame and contact an used a new bolt and washer checked again it had dropped to 0.01-0.03 ohms
2.Voltage checked in at above 12 volts so voltage is a go
3.Did the jumper test not sure if i had done it right but still blowing fuses

Well i did nt get the light to work but at least the car starts now had to replace the main relay.i opened up the other one and the joints where dried up and dusty


Modified by dc5itracer at 6:48 PM 10/24/2008

 

Have you inspected the fuse box under the dash. What kind of condition is the fuse box in????? With the hazard and turn signal switches disconnected does the fuse still blow???? If this is the case then we need to look at what other systems are connected to the power supply wire.

You can crimp a slot terminal end onto the jumper wire to have a better connection.

Here is another source of information HELMS manuals found in the Civic and Crx FAQ section of the forum. Click of the manuals link and look under the Honda Civic section and you can download your wiring diagrams and manuals for you car; this is what I have been using to help you along.



Modified by Icaras at 3:01 PM 10/26/2008