stereo kill switch
does any one know how to do a kill switch with the stereo...i have read on some forums that if u dont have the stereo on the car wont turn on can any one give me more details on it or give me pics on how do it...i have a 94 honda civic hatch
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by noender »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does any one know how to do a kill switch with the stereo...i have read on some forums that if u dont have the stereo on the car wont turn on can any one give me more details on it or give me pics on how do it...i have a 94 honda civic hatch
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If you want to force the stereo to be on before the car can be started, you use the amp/power antenna lead off the stereo to control an NC relay hooked up on the fuel pump wire.
But, doesn't the stereo turn on with the ignition anyway, making this mod useless?
</TD></TR></TABLE>If you want to force the stereo to be on before the car can be started, you use the amp/power antenna lead off the stereo to control an NC relay hooked up on the fuel pump wire.
But, doesn't the stereo turn on with the ignition anyway, making this mod useless?
I think he means in terms of removable faceplate. I've always thought of this type of security to be moreso of a thoughtful gimmick than anything, but to each their own.
My issue is that, if this interrupts the starter then you have an issue: The radio is not a 'true' 12v source. Turn the starter, it dies off. Even against a true 12v, the power dip will make the stereo turn off due to voltage loss, thus the starter will stop spinning (assuming this is a starter kill anyway). If it's a fuel pump kill, even scarier.
My issue is that, if this interrupts the starter then you have an issue: The radio is not a 'true' 12v source. Turn the starter, it dies off. Even against a true 12v, the power dip will make the stereo turn off due to voltage loss, thus the starter will stop spinning (assuming this is a starter kill anyway). If it's a fuel pump kill, even scarier.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Davus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My issue is that, if this interrupts the starter then you have an issue: The radio is not a 'true' 12v source. Turn the starter, it dies off. Even against a true 12v, the power dip will make the stereo turn off due to voltage loss, thus the starter will stop spinning (assuming this is a starter kill anyway). If it's a fuel pump kill, even scarier.
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Put faceplate on (to allow radio to power up), turn on ignition (do not start the car), wait for fuel pump to prime (you can hear it), start car. Even if the power dies off enough to kill the radio (my OEM radio stays on while starting), there should be sufficient fuel pressure to start the car without the pump active. However, without the faceplate, the pump will never prime, and the car can't be started.
This should work. I actually somewhat like the idea (if you have a detachable faceplate aftermarket radio).
Of course, all of this is just me thinking. There could very well be a reason (or multiple) why this is either a bad idea, or won't work...
My issue is that, if this interrupts the starter then you have an issue: The radio is not a 'true' 12v source. Turn the starter, it dies off. Even against a true 12v, the power dip will make the stereo turn off due to voltage loss, thus the starter will stop spinning (assuming this is a starter kill anyway). If it's a fuel pump kill, even scarier.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Put faceplate on (to allow radio to power up), turn on ignition (do not start the car), wait for fuel pump to prime (you can hear it), start car. Even if the power dies off enough to kill the radio (my OEM radio stays on while starting), there should be sufficient fuel pressure to start the car without the pump active. However, without the faceplate, the pump will never prime, and the car can't be started.
This should work. I actually somewhat like the idea (if you have a detachable faceplate aftermarket radio).
Of course, all of this is just me thinking. There could very well be a reason (or multiple) why this is either a bad idea, or won't work...
I've considered this as well. My issues is that I don't have the fastest head unit in the world, as far as power up goes, and my car would stall before it came back to life after cranking. You would need some sort of capacitor(?) on the wires to keep stereo active during cranking. Also, you'd probably want to make the stereo 'always on' (put a diode from the yellow wire to the red, to make the stereo think car's running) for simplicity. I mean, this could all work, but I still see it as a humour/novelty more than security. Yet again, to each their own. 
tl;dr: Put capacitor on stereo. Diode red with yellow.

tl;dr: Put capacitor on stereo. Diode red with yellow.
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