Title says all. I attempted to do the washer trick to fix my rear camber. Note that i put 2 washers on each bolt. Now, The passenger side went cherry. However, i have some difficulties on the driver's side - I was able to fit the new bolt (M10 x 1.25 x40 SAE 10.9 grade) to the left side, but the right side is real tight after tighten it about 4/5 of the way (see the attach picture)



source: http://www.geocities.com/lx98c...t.jpg
and it wouldn't go in no matter how hard i tried. So i decided to put stock bolts back in with 2 washers on each bolt. My questions are:

1) Has anyone ever experienced this difficulties putting the bolt in? How to fix it? (i used torque wrench and that right bolt must be at least 60 lbs-ft tight, but the factory torque spec is only 29lbs-ft).

2) I am using stock bolts for that driver's side with 2 washers on each bolt - is it safe? (I have 3 people sitting in my car for most of the time so there is going to be some stress on those stock bolts - total weight isabout 480 pounds ).

If you have read this far... i appreciate your help!

Ben




Modified by benitom at 9:00 PM 10/12/2008

 

If the bolt will not go all the way in then when you take the bolt out measure how much dept you have to work with. Use a small screw driver or anything that can fit inside of that bolt hole to measure how long of a bolt you can put.

If it's not the dept problem then you might have stripped the thread.

check which one first

 

i did it too my car you have to replace 2 oem bolts buy it 1/8 more longer and good luck

 

1) there is a lot of room in that bolt hole - I'd say about half an inch space left for the bolt.

2) The bolt only needs about 3/4 of a centimeter of space to get in the hole.

Please advice...


Modified by benitom at 5:55 PM 10/13/2008

 

I advise you to remove the washers and not worry about camber, unless an alignment rack shows it at more than -2.5 degrees. Your tires will be fine as long as you get the toe adjusted to factory specs.

Be very careful tightening those bolts. Overtightening can cause the welded nut inside the frame to break off, and then you'll have major issues to deal with. You'll have to cut holes in the frame in order to re-weld a nut on the inside.

If you do have very excessive camber in the rear, I would suggest going with the proper rear adjustable upper arm kit, the kind that adjusts by turning the upper arm, similar to adjusting the front outer tie rods.

 

It helps to jack the control arm up so that it takes the stress off the trailing arm then you can line the holes up easier. I would back the bolt out that you already have in there then put both in but don't tighten them down until both have started threading.

 

might also try running a tap through those holes in case the threads are jacked up a bit. That should clean them out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">might also try running a tap through those holes in case the threads are jacked up a bit. That should clean them out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You mean running "water" through the hole right?

GABEBAUMAN: I tried that and everything was perfectly aligned, thus the bolt could go in smoothly, but no luch cause i still couldn't get the darn bolt all the way in... there's like 10mm of that gap left.

HELP PLS!!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by benitom &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You mean running "water" through the hole right?

GABEBAUMAN: I tried that and everything was perfectly aligned, thus the bolt could go in smoothly, but no luch cause i still couldn't get the darn bolt all the way in... there's like 10mm of that gap left.

HELP PLS!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, I mean a tap, you know those things that cut threads into metal, or can clean up/straighten damaged threads. A die is opposite of a tap, in that it cuts threads on a metal rod to make a bolt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No, I mean a tap, you know those things that cut threads into metal, or can clean up/straighten damaged threads. A die is opposite of a tap, in that it cuts threads on a metal rod to make a bolt.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Okay, now, i understand what tap means, but what kind of tool/machine would do that, where do i get those? What's the procedure... sorry I am a noob LOL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by benitom &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Okay, now, i understand what tap means, but what kind of tool/machine would do that, where do i get those? What's the procedure... sorry I am a noob LOL</TD></TR></TABLE>

The tool itself is called a tap.

You turn it by hand. Any tool store carries them (including Home Depot and Pep Boys).

 

You need to pick up a metric tap and die set. It will save you TONS of money by repairing stripped bolt holes and studs where you would otherwise be SOL. I bought mine probably 8+ years ago and it has saved me countless amounts of time and money.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need to pick up a metric tap and die set. It will save you TONS of money by repairing stripped bolt holes and studs where you would otherwise be SOL. I bought mine probably 8+ years ago and it has saved me countless amounts of time and money.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just curious about how the machine works? Say the hole is stripped... do you have to put some kind of grease inside while using the machine to make up for that stripped hole?

Anyhow, I actually managed to get the bolt in (with 4 washers on each bolt)! believe the screw wasn't totally aligned with the hole (I thouht it was aligned, but I was wrong... mine needed to be very precise to get those bolts in correctly). Now, I am crossing my fingers hoping that those bolts would stay tight.

THANKS EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP. YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME!

 

FOUR washers on EACH bolt? Wow man that seems a little excessive/unsafe. Are you trying to get back to zero camber or something? You really should leave it around -1.5 to -2 camber for optimum handling.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FOUR washers on EACH bolt? Wow man that seems a little excessive/unsafe. Are you trying to get back to zero camber or something? You really should leave it around -1.5 to -2 camber for optimum handling.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had 2-3 degree of negtive camber and 0 degree toes on both rear wheels and those cambers were eating my inner tires. Right now, the rear wheels are very straight. I will see whether i want to keep it like this or loose one washer on eacbolt. What's the unsafe and disadvantage of having 4 bolts and straight wheels?

Thanks!

 

I doubt the camber was wearing your tires. Do you have an alignment sheet showing that the toe was 0 before? The rear should have about 1/8" total toe-in anyway.

BTW you'll need another alignment after messing with those washers, as that will also throw toe off from where it was.

 

Yea, but it's at home. I will take a snapshot of it once i get off from work today.