i have a little 94 hatchback with a jdm b18c swap and your basic bolt-ons consisting of an aem intake, dc 4-1, aem cam gears, and hks catback. it's running a p72 ecu with a hondata s200 with a stock type-r tune. the car runs great, it went 9.5@76mph in the 1/8 mile, doesn't smoke, runs perfect all the time, and according to the plugs isn't running rich at all. however, i went to get it emission tested in order to register the car, and failed my hydrocarbons by 390 (needing a 220 to pass). i swapped the hondata out for the stock jdm p72 ecu, and it went down to a 320. tried leaning it out more by advancing the distributor all the way, and it still only went down to a 280. my nox looks great, it was only like a .52 out of like a 1.2 i think was passable. it doesn't throw any codes whatsoever. what should i do to get this car through?

 

I would start with new plugs, wires, cap & rotor. then if that fails then just get a new oem catalyst. should fix it up pretty good.

 

Mist water into the throttle body to break up carbon build up on top of the pistons. Sounds nuts, but it works.

 

Water? I didn't know you can do that. Try using carb cleaner or brake cleaner instead.

 

Maybe the engine is running too cold. You might want to check the thermostat and the coolant temperature sensor.

 

its got a new bosch cap, wires, and rotor, and new ngk plugs. i also put a new oe thermostat in it. not sure about the cat, but it doesn't act like its stopped up. im thinking maybe o2 sensor, its weird but the jdm ecu doesn't throw a code but on the p72 it will throw a code 41 unless the o2 heater is disabled.

 

New: air filter, NGK spark plugs and wires only, cap and rotor, and put some Seafoam cleaner into your gas tank to clean up all the dirt before going into the test again.

 

i run lucas fuel system cleaner every oil change, and the motor only has 45k on it anyway. i highly doubt its piston buildup. i might just lean out my fuel tables with the hondata and try to pass it that way. maybe put like a quarter tank of 87 and baby it til its used up.

 

If you're able to take the car for a decent 20-30min run (preferably on the highway), immediately prior to testing, it can make a world of difference.

 

I would start by moving to a state/county that does not require emission tests.

 

lean out the ecu for the test with a program

 

A lean condition causes high combustion chamber temps which in turn makes high NOX. and to op, just cause that cat is not clogged dosent mean that it is not bad. there is a way to tell but you have to have a non contact thermometer, what you want to see is the temp after the cat should be 100 degrees hotter then before, the lower it goes the lower the performance is. unless it is just colder after the cat then before then it is just completly shot. gl.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedwes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a little 94 hatchback with a jdm b18c swap and your basic bolt-ons consisting of an aem intake, dc 4-1, aem cam gears, and hks catback. it's running a p72 ecu with a hondata s200 with a stock type-r tune. the car runs great, it went 9.5@76mph in the 1/8 mile, doesn't smoke, runs perfect all the time, and according to the plugs isn't running rich at all. however, i went to get it emission tested in order to register the car, and failed my hydrocarbons by 390 (needing a 220 to pass). i swapped the hondata out for the stock jdm p72 ecu, and it went down to a 320. tried leaning it out more by advancing the distributor all the way, and it still only went down to a 280. my nox looks great, it was only like a .52 out of like a 1.2 i think was passable. it doesn't throw any codes whatsoever. what should i do to get this car through?</TD></TR></TABLE>

advancing base timing mean anything to you?


jdm ecu wont pass in ca, i dont know how bad exactly its putting you over, best bet would be a us spec

 

I agree with boostedwes. And plus, if u advance or retard the distributor, u still won't pass smog cuz your timing is now off.

 

Changing the ignition timing does not lean or richin the cly. it may richin the exhaust do to left over fuel not getting burned but the right air fuel still entered the cly.

 

do you think if i unplugged one of the injectors it would get it through?