OK, first off, these are just two headers that were laying around the garage. They came off parted out cars and weren't my first choices. But that's what I have here and for the time being I'm going to use one of them. In the future I may upgrade to something nicer - please don't suggest I do that now.

1992 GSR
B17A
11:1
CTR cams
ITR intake manifold (hopefully TB as well)
ITR stock intake tubing and box
RS*R Ex-mag exhaust (will probably remove muffler section for track days)
YS1 w/ ITR internals and 4.7fd
will be tuned at Church with Chrome or Hondata

Car will be a track day vehicle, rarely driven on the street. If I opt for the 4-2-1 DC with 2" collector I'll probably just run my stock CAT for now. If I run the 4-1 Megan I'll be buying a 300 cell SMSP CAT. (but I'll consider getting the SMSP either way if the general concensus is that it'll be a benefit)

Any opinions? In general I realize that the 4-2-1 is a little more low end oriented while the 4-1 is a bit more high end oriented... but I have no idea how much of an effect either will have. Overall I'm looking for the most amount of usable power possible while remaining reliable and fun to drive.

Thanks!

 

ide say go with the 4-1 megan... tell us wat u make for power with that setup.

 

4-1 all the way if its a track car, maybe a little dip in power and tq cross the rpm range , enjoy

 

Still looking for some insight on this one, maybe a small explanation... It's a huge difference in collector size and this is a relatively mild build on a smaller displacement engine. Any good / bad experiences out there?

tia

 

FYI - When we build headers for the B16, we build 4-1s with 2-1/2" outlets.

 

colin use the 4-1 with 2.5" outlet.. but dont forget you need to notch the x-member on the DA. you will want a 2.5" exhaust too. no power loss, and even if exhaust velocity was a concern in the lower rpm, you have a 4.7 FD.... you're not going to have issues

note: my experience with my b16 and the 4-1 jdm itr header resulted in the 4-1 being right up on the oil pan, not really sure why this is the case, but was not the case with my b18 build.

it didnt ruin anything though, oil stayed good. ran this setup temporarily for about 2 years when i was between 1.8 motors

as for the cat, while the SMSP is a great unit, i;d say purchasing one depends on cost for you. In my experience, with the smaller displacement, and ctr cams, you're not going to really run into flow problems with any hi-flow catalytic. I ran the 2.5" caround with excellent powerband on a 1.8L and CTR cams, stock b16 head up to 8500.

only when i went with a ported head and 12mm lift cams, did it become a problem and had to switch out to a test pipe, and now i'm spinning to at least 8600-9k




Modified by oldskool teggy at 5:55 PM 10/9/2008

 

Thanks guys, just what I needed to hear! Looks like I'll be running this header after all. Dave, I'll be sending you an email soon to order my CAT parts.

I mocked the header up a few weekends ago and it didn't seem to have any clearance issues with the oil pan. I don't remember exactly how close it was, but it didn't startle me at all.

I'll also be using a Full Race traction bar so the crossmember clearance won't be an issue. I don't plan on switching to a 2.5" exhaust. I have the old school full polish RS*R and I think I'll keep that for the time being. Really I'm more interested in getting this thing finished and on the track than I am about a few hp. On the street (which this car will rarely be driven on) I'll run the exhaust normally, but at the track I plan to remove the muffler section assuming it is still below track noise limits.

 

seee you at the tracks Colin

 

I'm hoping to get in a track day before the end of the year, but time is running out, I barely have any time to actually work on the car(s) and there's a long way to go still. Plus we have a LeMons race right after Christmas, and since that's "real' racing and a team affair it takes priority over my track day Integra...

If I can get in a track day this year I'm hoping to get Nino out there in his EF and maybe another friend in his EF and my little brother in his GF (Impreza wagon) as well.

 

did nino rebuild his motor that blew up earlier this year?

 

I have a DC 4-1 ITR header on my B17A1 and it's definitely NOT close to the oil pan at all, I'm pretty sure I can fit my hand up between them. I have a CRX and the front crossmember definitely needs to be notched. The header will also hang way too low, my car isn't even that low and the stupid header hangs down and looks like a nut sack from the front. Mine is pretty dented and in need of replacement.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oldskool teggy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did nino rebuild his motor that blew up earlier this year?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Boy oh boy what a process he's been through. The car was originally John's civic, Nino had it tuned and it blew the first track day he went to. After that he got a brand new ITR shortblock and put that in, had it tuned and tracked it again. After that he was searching high and low for some minor issues it had. For some reason it just wasn't running smooth. I forget now, may have been a very strange timing issue. Runs well now, just got it tuned and I think it made about 200whp (w/ Church's velocity stack). Since then he bought Duy's car to part out and sold me his DB2 chassis... it's been an interesting year, all sorts of parts changing hands...

 

I know this is super old, but figured I'd update. I used the Megan, doesn't look like low/mid torque was a problem. It looks like I made nearly as much as my friend's stockish b18c-R (comptech header w/ small collector).




Red = baseline
Green = after tune
Dark Blue = w/ velocity stack instead of OEM ITR intake
Light Blue = w/ velocity stack + muffler removed

 

I run the JDM spec Megan 4-1 header makes great power special for the price tag $160shipped to my door proven to perform better than DC.

 

Slightly off topic, but (if I'm reading the graph correctly) you lost midrange torque by removing the muffler - dk blue vs lt blue - but made a negligible amount more near redline? All else is same (?)

Thanks.

 

For the most part you can ignore that dip in midrange and just assume the curve will continue on a fairly linear path from the beginning and end of the dip. The engine was tuned with a stock ITR airbox and we just tested the velocity stack and removed muffler with that Ecu programming.

What this means is that we gave the engine a lot more air without making any adjustments to fuel. In order to ensure that lean conditions didn't occur the ecu automatically compensated - I believe by retarding ignition timing. If we spent the time to tune for the new higher airflow that dip should disappear and I could see gains of 5-10+ HP in that range. Plus Shawn thinks the vtec crossover could be lowered a bit too.

 

so which one r u using? Chrome or Hondata?

 

I was going to use Hondata S100 or S200 but a P30 ECU already chipped w/ Crome (from a friend w/ a similar motor) sorta fell into my lap, so that's what I'm using. There are small benefits to Hondata, especially the S300, but for what I'm doing it doesn't much matter. And actually in my case it was faster for Shawn to tune the Crome ecu he'd tuned years prior than it would have been to start with a freshly chipped Hondata ECU.

Also, I ended up only using the CTR intake cam, with a stock p61 exhaust cam. The CTR exhaust cam I got ended up being damaged so I didn't use it. I didn't find an ITR throttle body, so I'm using a b18c1 TB. Other than that my original post is still accurate in regard to relevant mods.

 

My 1.8L Pro2 setup just made 218whp on a dynodynamics dyno with my Megan 4-1.

Dyno graph to be pimped out soon...........