JDM H22a turbo question/ AZ emissions question...
Im going to be buying a '99 EK coupe with an H22a turbo motor from a good friend. Now i know the rules of 'built, not bought', but a good friend is in financial troubles so im gonna help him out. I dont doubt his mechanical abilities for a second, but the motor has a stock rotating assembly (10.6:1 comp). He has a FMU tuned so it can safely run 10 psi. My question is, will it be safe and reliable??? Should i turn down the boost to say 5-7 psi to be safer??? I plan on getting a Hondata tuner to fully tune and dial in the motor to get some more power out of it. Please let me know of any tips or insight of what would be good for this...
Also, I live in a part of Arizona that requires emissions. What would be a good idea to do that would get the car to pass, like a second ECU with a trimmed fuel map or something. And is there a way to somehow (if at all possible) disable the sending of check engine codes on an ECU through the diagnostic port, cause they hook up to diagnostics to make sure if it has trouble codes or not. I wanna make sure this car passes, i think it will but i dont wanna take any chances...
Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated...
Also, I live in a part of Arizona that requires emissions. What would be a good idea to do that would get the car to pass, like a second ECU with a trimmed fuel map or something. And is there a way to somehow (if at all possible) disable the sending of check engine codes on an ECU through the diagnostic port, cause they hook up to diagnostics to make sure if it has trouble codes or not. I wanna make sure this car passes, i think it will but i dont wanna take any chances...
Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated...
476 whp / 323 tq @ 17 PSI
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blindside454 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He has a FMU tuned so it can safely run 10 psi. My question is, will it be safe and reliable??? Should i turn down the boost to say 5-7 psi to be safer??? I plan on getting a Hondata tuner to fully tune and dial in the motor to get some more power out of it. Please let me know of any tips or insight of what would be good for this...</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can't tune an FMU like u said your friend might of said he done. An FMU intervenes the vacuum feed going into your fuel pressure regulator that in turn, adjusts fuel pressure accordingly. An FMU is usually only recommended up to 6-7psi max so turning down the boost should be no problem and is recommended. an even smarter move is to immediately get that hondata and have it tuned properly right away.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blindside454 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, I live in a part of Arizona that requires emissions. What would be a good idea to do that would get the car to pass, like a second ECU with a trimmed fuel map or something. And is there a way to somehow (if at all possible) disable the sending of check engine codes on an ECU through the diagnostic port, cause they hook up to diagnostics to make sure if it has trouble codes or not. I wanna make sure this car passes, i think it will but i dont wanna take any chances...
Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its not as easy as trying to trick a diagnostic tool or disabling a bunch of sensors, that can be done with majority of engine management programs. passing emission at the tail pipe would be the major problem followed by passing visual. if you are disabling a sensor because it was triggered, it effects the emission results at the tailpipe. The only way to possibly pass smog with a turbo honda is running a carb exempt kit but majority of the time the FCU that comes with the kit is garbage and causes the car to run rich anyway, and you will be running a BOV that wont pass inspection either. Start off by asking your friend how (more like who) he would pass smog with the turbo kit to begin with.
You can't tune an FMU like u said your friend might of said he done. An FMU intervenes the vacuum feed going into your fuel pressure regulator that in turn, adjusts fuel pressure accordingly. An FMU is usually only recommended up to 6-7psi max so turning down the boost should be no problem and is recommended. an even smarter move is to immediately get that hondata and have it tuned properly right away.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blindside454 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, I live in a part of Arizona that requires emissions. What would be a good idea to do that would get the car to pass, like a second ECU with a trimmed fuel map or something. And is there a way to somehow (if at all possible) disable the sending of check engine codes on an ECU through the diagnostic port, cause they hook up to diagnostics to make sure if it has trouble codes or not. I wanna make sure this car passes, i think it will but i dont wanna take any chances...
Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its not as easy as trying to trick a diagnostic tool or disabling a bunch of sensors, that can be done with majority of engine management programs. passing emission at the tail pipe would be the major problem followed by passing visual. if you are disabling a sensor because it was triggered, it effects the emission results at the tailpipe. The only way to possibly pass smog with a turbo honda is running a carb exempt kit but majority of the time the FCU that comes with the kit is garbage and causes the car to run rich anyway, and you will be running a BOV that wont pass inspection either. Start off by asking your friend how (more like who) he would pass smog with the turbo kit to begin with.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM turbo DC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You can't tune an FMU like u said your friend might of said he done. An FMU intervenes the vacuum feed going into your fuel pressure regulator that in turn, adjusts fuel pressure accordingly. An FMU is usually only recommended up to 6-7psi max so turning down the boost should be no problem and is recommended. an even smarter move is to immediately get that hondata and have it tuned properly right away.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well thats what i meant by 'tuned' (may used it out of context), but the fuel pressure was adjusted to run a decent amount of boost. Since you say the max psi is 7, its gonna go to 7 until i get Hondata in it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM turbo DC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Its not as easy as trying to trick a diagnostic tool or disabling a bunch of sensors, that can be done with majority of engine management programs. passing emission at the tail pipe would be the major problem followed by passing visual. if you are disabling a sensor because it was triggered, it effects the emission results at the tailpipe. The only way to possibly pass smog with a turbo honda is running a carb exempt kit but majority of the time the FCU that comes with the kit is garbage and causes the car to run rich anyway, and you will be running a BOV that wont pass inspection either. Start off by asking your friend how (more like who) he would pass smog with the turbo kit to begin with.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im gonna have to look into this a little more deeply. I may have to call the emissions building to see what is allowed and what isnt. And it brings me to thinking cause one of my good buddies has an almost fully built SR20DET and he passes with flying colors, even with the performance tune and not a dulled down tune. So im gonna ask him and call the building to see what the R&R's are for modified cars. Worst comes to worst, ill register it at my buddies house where there isnt emissions...
Thanks for the input...
You can't tune an FMU like u said your friend might of said he done. An FMU intervenes the vacuum feed going into your fuel pressure regulator that in turn, adjusts fuel pressure accordingly. An FMU is usually only recommended up to 6-7psi max so turning down the boost should be no problem and is recommended. an even smarter move is to immediately get that hondata and have it tuned properly right away.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well thats what i meant by 'tuned' (may used it out of context), but the fuel pressure was adjusted to run a decent amount of boost. Since you say the max psi is 7, its gonna go to 7 until i get Hondata in it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM turbo DC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Its not as easy as trying to trick a diagnostic tool or disabling a bunch of sensors, that can be done with majority of engine management programs. passing emission at the tail pipe would be the major problem followed by passing visual. if you are disabling a sensor because it was triggered, it effects the emission results at the tailpipe. The only way to possibly pass smog with a turbo honda is running a carb exempt kit but majority of the time the FCU that comes with the kit is garbage and causes the car to run rich anyway, and you will be running a BOV that wont pass inspection either. Start off by asking your friend how (more like who) he would pass smog with the turbo kit to begin with.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im gonna have to look into this a little more deeply. I may have to call the emissions building to see what is allowed and what isnt. And it brings me to thinking cause one of my good buddies has an almost fully built SR20DET and he passes with flying colors, even with the performance tune and not a dulled down tune. So im gonna ask him and call the building to see what the R&R's are for modified cars. Worst comes to worst, ill register it at my buddies house where there isnt emissions...
Thanks for the input...
sr20s always pass the tailpipe test
from what im told Az shouldt have a visual inspection only tail pipe. so aslong as your not throwing any cel's your good. go in for a pre test if the smog place offers them. if you fail that you should know what you need to fix.
if any thing I think that fmu is going to [freak] you on the tail pipe test
from what im told Az shouldt have a visual inspection only tail pipe. so aslong as your not throwing any cel's your good. go in for a pre test if the smog place offers them. if you fail that you should know what you need to fix.
if any thing I think that fmu is going to [freak] you on the tail pipe test
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thatblkguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sr20s always pass the tailpipe test
from what im told Az shouldt have a visual inspection only tail pipe. so aslong as your not throwing any cel's your good. go in for a pre test if the smog place offers them. if you fail that you should know what you need to fix.
if any thing I think that fmu is going to [freak] you on the tail pipe test</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks man, ill look into that. Im gonna call the testing facility to see whats done so i can prep myself before hand...
from what im told Az shouldt have a visual inspection only tail pipe. so aslong as your not throwing any cel's your good. go in for a pre test if the smog place offers them. if you fail that you should know what you need to fix.
if any thing I think that fmu is going to [freak] you on the tail pipe test</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks man, ill look into that. Im gonna call the testing facility to see whats done so i can prep myself before hand...
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