ITR piston quality vs. aftermarket
I'm doing a rebuild on my LS bottom end this winter to be safe to rev along with my head to 8500rpm. After knocking the idea of a b20 buildup (I'd rather put the extra cash into suspension), I've been toying with this idea.
- .25 over JDM ITR pistons giving me 11.0:1 CR
- Eagle rods w/ARP bolts
- Balanced crank
- GSR/ITR girldle + ITR windage tray + pickup
- ARP headbolts
I'm wondering what you guys think of these pistons vs. spending the extra $200 on some aftermarket JE, SRP bla bla bla pistons. TIA
- .25 over JDM ITR pistons giving me 11.0:1 CR
- Eagle rods w/ARP bolts
- Balanced crank
- GSR/ITR girldle + ITR windage tray + pickup
- ARP headbolts
I'm wondering what you guys think of these pistons vs. spending the extra $200 on some aftermarket JE, SRP bla bla bla pistons. TIA
i would go for aftermarket forged pistons.....there much stronger and you can deffinatly run a higher CR safley on 92 octane fuel.........12.5:1 shouldent be a problem.
also will OEM honda pistons fit onto Eagle rods without modifications?
also will OEM honda pistons fit onto Eagle rods without modifications?
theyre fine if youre not boosting or squeezing. plus you get a nice CR thats safe from detonation.(as long as you got the right octaine)
nonvtec: I'm unsure about the fitment, but if thats true, I'd prefer staying away from shaving & grinding. I've got 94 available in my area (petro-can) and didn't really want to venture past 11.5:1 unless you'd think my setup would benefit from it.
allmtr: That's what I was thinking, I personally feel that the strength issues when it comes to all motor setups is not anywhere as important as FI, but then again better safe than sorry. The only downfall is price, and if the ITR pistons would fit, I'd much rather spend the $200-250 on a skunk2 or edelbrock IM to help out my high end. I'm sure there are a lot of all motor ITRs running around revving to 8500-8800rpm without throwing rods.
I'm wondering the general feeling of all motor setups. What fails more often, rods or pistons?
allmtr: That's what I was thinking, I personally feel that the strength issues when it comes to all motor setups is not anywhere as important as FI, but then again better safe than sorry. The only downfall is price, and if the ITR pistons would fit, I'd much rather spend the $200-250 on a skunk2 or edelbrock IM to help out my high end. I'm sure there are a lot of all motor ITRs running around revving to 8500-8800rpm without throwing rods.
I'm wondering the general feeling of all motor setups. What fails more often, rods or pistons?
i think rods, rod bearings and piston rings fail more often in all motor set-ups.
pistons usually fail from FI beacuse of the cylinder pressure and heat......
i think there is a fitment issue when using OEM honda pistons with eagle rods. the eagle rod small end is designed for a full free floating wrist pin. all OEM honda pistons have a pin that is pressed into the rod.
you probably can use them with eagle rods but i think it would require modification of the piston to make them full free floating wrist pins with the locking clips and all.....
pistons usually fail from FI beacuse of the cylinder pressure and heat......
i think there is a fitment issue when using OEM honda pistons with eagle rods. the eagle rod small end is designed for a full free floating wrist pin. all OEM honda pistons have a pin that is pressed into the rod.
you probably can use them with eagle rods but i think it would require modification of the piston to make them full free floating wrist pins with the locking clips and all.....
not to mention it is a cast piston. I have heard that using stock pistons
you should use a factory rod, however reinforced... yet a factory one.
not sure why. Mike K in fact made this point to me when I wanted to
do roller waves on my stock B18C1 and he steered me clear of it
telling me that they would wear the stock sleeve with the forged
internals. I also asked if I could use a forged rod with Pr3s and he
was like... dude stay stock with them they work best together, in
context to the stock sleeve, at least this was my understanding.
you should use a factory rod, however reinforced... yet a factory one.
not sure why. Mike K in fact made this point to me when I wanted to
do roller waves on my stock B18C1 and he steered me clear of it
telling me that they would wear the stock sleeve with the forged
internals. I also asked if I could use a forged rod with Pr3s and he
was like... dude stay stock with them they work best together, in
context to the stock sleeve, at least this was my understanding.
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