vehicle info: 1993 civic hatchback, with a 1998 gsr motor n trans...


i just bought a competition clutch stage 2 kit, and wanted to changed out the gear oil in the transmission while its being done. few questions if you dont mind

1. i work at napa and have access to discounted products...what is the best stuff to put in the transmission? i have access to royal purple products, valvoline syn-power 75-90, napa brand (non syn), or should i go and order the motul gear 300? gm synchromesh?

recommendations with part numbers would be appreciated

2. should i change the spring for the release bearing? hwo do i tell if the flywheel needs to be resurfaced, and any specs on minimum thickness?

3. with the 93 hatch, 98 gsr motor n trans, can the transmission be dropped or do i have to pull the entire motor n transmission? if so, how easy is it to pull and should i go with OEM timing kit?

4. not tranny related, but since im asking...the "butterfly" thing-a-ma-bob on the intake manifold doesnt seem to be functional. i was told that if it doesnt move when the ignition is turned on, that it is defective. can it be replaced on its own, or do i need to replace the manifold...sorry to go off topic

any input would be appreciated, thanks!

 

Dino oil or Honda MTF, never synthetic.

 

From all my buddies on stlhondas, the only thing that we ever use is honda MTF. Honda supposably has changed their formula recently from what i have heard.

 

Don't ever put synthetic oil into the transmission. It will grind like none other. Non-synthetic 10W-30 or Honda MTF are the only two things that I have seen work well.

 

For question No.4, the butterflys only move when you are getting at the est. 4000 rpm stage on a stock p72. It doesnt not move before that. If it does not move at all, you have not wired it correctly to the ECU so that it can activate that.

Anyone, please correct me if I am wrong... Its been a while since I have looked into the butterfly thing a mober!

 

damn, getting this trans out was a pain, ended up braking the bracket from the trans to the motor, ruined the trans mount thread in one, the plastic on the coolant temp. sensor and i didnt exactly categorize bolts like i should have...


found out the flywheel should be resurfaced, so i put off the rest of the job untill tomorrow, so i am also going to need to do

-new flywheel bolts (i was told they are stretch to yeild or somethin and cant be reused)
-rear main seal
-coolant temp sensor


what kind of helicoil do i need for the trans mount?

btw i ended up going to honda and getting their MTF

thanks for the help guys, once this is done, i will get to buying a used fender, some winter rubbers, and sanding down the type r lip and painting it, along with new fender.


by next summer shes going to be a sweet land rover green hatchback gsr...with all your help of course!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mista Bone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dino oil or Honda MTF, never synthetic.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't ever put synthetic oil into the transmission. It will grind like none other. Non-synthetic 10W-30 or Honda MTF are the only two things that I have seen work well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Have you seen this not work firsthand ? I always wanted to try it out, technically you should see higher whp, less friction,. How much ..i have no idea, most likely minimal. Your speaking about a synthetic motor oil correct ? Because the redline formula that some ppl are running is a synthetic, however that is a trans fluid.

 

synchros are brake pads.......now add in a slippery surface and ask them to brake just as hard.


GRINDING goes the gears!!!!!

 

thats true, never thought of that.

What additives do redline and other manufacturers put to combat this and still run a synthetic fluid ?