speedometer and odometer not working
The odometer is nonfunctional and the speedometer was hanging at 20mph when running and at 0 when it was off. I checked fuses and then tried replacing the vss. Now it bounces between 15 and 20 mph based on my speed. The faster I go the, faster it bounces. Any ideas?
Do you have a CEL?
If not it's most likely the green circuit board on the back of the speedometer. Do a search and you will find the threads pertaining to it. I also believe it is in the Accord FAQ.
If not it's most likely the green circuit board on the back of the speedometer. Do a search and you will find the threads pertaining to it. I also believe it is in the Accord FAQ.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheMuffinMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have a CEL?
If not it's most likely the green circuit board on the back of the speedometer. Do a search and you will find the threads pertaining to it. I also believe it is in the Accord FAQ.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Arggh! No CEL and I didn't even think of checking that first. Always end up going the long way to get to the right answer.
Oh well, it's good experience and practice for me. Thanks again MuffinMan
If not it's most likely the green circuit board on the back of the speedometer. Do a search and you will find the threads pertaining to it. I also believe it is in the Accord FAQ.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Arggh! No CEL and I didn't even think of checking that first. Always end up going the long way to get to the right answer.
Oh well, it's good experience and practice for me. Thanks again MuffinMan
Yeah it's a pain, I made a "cluster removal" faq, that someone added pictures too, it's fairly straight forward to getting to the cluster.
You can either solder the back of it back together (in another thread the main points are covered by an epoxy, so chip that off and then apply the soldering iron to it for a second to remelt it) OR you can buy a new working cluster.
I didn't have the time to f with it so I bought a working one from ebay.
You can either solder the back of it back together (in another thread the main points are covered by an epoxy, so chip that off and then apply the soldering iron to it for a second to remelt it) OR you can buy a new working cluster.
I didn't have the time to f with it so I bought a working one from ebay.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dtapia »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so it's a bad speedo assy ? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, from trial and error I found that out and it's proved to fix it for multiple people.
The green circuit board that slides onto the rear of the speedometer itself has some specific solder joints that over time break away from the board losing contact or causing intermittent contact.
That's IF you don't have the VSS CEL. If you have the CEL it's pretty much the VSS.
Yep, from trial and error I found that out and it's proved to fix it for multiple people.
The green circuit board that slides onto the rear of the speedometer itself has some specific solder joints that over time break away from the board losing contact or causing intermittent contact.
That's IF you don't have the VSS CEL. If you have the CEL it's pretty much the VSS.
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I've already taken the cluster out once before. The previous owner neglected to replace some of the screws so I was able to just pop out the molding around it. I'll take a look at your faq and decide what I want to do. There is an aftermarket cluster in there now so I would prefer not to pay for a downgrade.
You mean the glow faces or what not?
You don't have to mess with them
The circuit board just pulls straight off from the back (unclip the white plastic cover on the back after unplugging the top two bulbs) you should see the boards i'm referring to
You don't have to mess with them

The circuit board just pulls straight off from the back (unclip the white plastic cover on the back after unplugging the top two bulbs) you should see the boards i'm referring to
Okay, so I took the new vss off and just to see if the CEL for it came up before I put my old one back on, I started the engine. No code. I still have 12 and 23 which are the two I started with but no 17. I would assume the checks occur when the car is started.
Update on the problem. New speedo has identical results so I am assuming the cluster isn't the problem. Possibly wiring? What does the shaft of the VSS turn? I talked with someone who said he was having a similar problem on his vehicle and that it was missing some of the teeth on the gear next to the sensor.
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