Ok so I have a 1998 DX with an EX head, and I was wondering how to adjust the timing belt. I am almost 100 percent sure the belt is on correctly, it's just the car boggs after a while of highway driving where turning off the car and back on again fixes it. Most people say it's the timing, so how does one adjust this besides the distributor?

 

lets first get the basics.
Adjusting the distributor will only change the ignition timing.
The only way to adjust cam timing is to get a aftermarket cam gear like AEM, SKUNK2, or Mugen.

cam timing is usually not a problem when turning the car off/on again fixs it.

 

oh alright, I see now. Any suggestions then?

 

do you have the ex ecu? or are you running the Ex with no vtec. not sure about the cause but when vtec is not working the engine doesn't like higher rpms.

 

I have an EX ecu and it happens even when I dont hit higher RPMs

 

i'm assuming the head was recently swaped on..?

yeah, the timing can be off at the cam- the valve timing that is. and yes, you can adjust it with a factory cam gear... you are only able to adjust by one tooth increments. so if you're off a tooth or two (more would kinda be crazy!) then you can get the timing "right" at the T-belt and then re-set your ignition timing using the dist. housing.

also, if your cam timing is off, it's pretty tough to get your ignition timing right because the dist. is cam driven. so you'll ride for a while and the ECU will put up with the conditions, but then it can't take it anymore and throws a code. not unusual.

so where do you start?

if it were mine, i'd borrow or buy a timing light (assuming i didn't have one), and check the ignition timing. if it's within spec i'd take note of the possition of the dist. housing. the upper bolt flange ear should be lined up, or centered as some like to say with the mating ear on the head/rocker assembly.

if it's all the way to the front or the back of the car, or against the lock down bolts... you're cam is out of time. the front of the motor has to come appart and the timing belt repositioned.

(oh, i see you have the ECU good)

 

So which timing would make me throw an engine code? I've had this problem for a good 2 months but have had no time to fix it until now. The thing is, is that it has not thrown any codes at all. Also, if this helps specify the problem, if I try to gun it from a stop it boggs for a while then goes. The bogging on the highway generally only happens when I let off of the gas then get on it again, then I have to restart the car

 

bump

 

bump bump

 

the ex ecu is looking for a knock sensor to advance timing during a steady cruise! did you use the ex harness and run a knock sensor?

 

Im not too sure :S I know it's converted to OBD1 from OBD2

 

ok well that's more info then... what intake mani are you using?

what ecu are you using? obd1 p28? also sounds to me like it needs tuning the y8 head is a lot different then a z6 and timing is controlled differently

 

the manifold is a z6 manifold with a y8 head. The ECU is an OBD1 p28 yes. So Tuning it is what I need to do?

 

yes as long as you've checked all your basic tune up parts! cap, rotor button, spark plugs and wires

you did adjust the valves after installing the head?

 

yeah the valves were adjusted. The car runs great for a little bit, then just poops out. I did the plugs, fuel filter, etc. Never checked the cap or rotor button though

 

quick bump

 

hayyyy