Sway Bar?
What class are you running in?
Front or Rear bar or bars?
What other suspension mods do you currently have?
What handeling characteristics do you want the car to have? Underteer or Oversteer or the most Neutral?
They are actually called Anti-sway bars, and the ones that I've seen used most for the R are the Mugen 24 or 26mm and JDM/OEM/ITR 23mm. It depends how much oversteer you want and also "if" you are planning on doing full road course events as well. Many will report that they are happy with the thick *** mugen 26mm and still others will say that without a full suspension upgrade that a big bar like that will unbalance the R's feeling with a stock suspension, Especially on a road course...
The R's suspension is almost perfect "stock" in MANY peoples opinions, and Defiantely Perfect for Stock class racing. Upgrading it would require serious money at least $1500. to $2000. for a full suspension, not neccessarily including any anti-sway bars.
Heres a clear and informative link for further understanding the "swaybar":
http://www.turnfast.com/tech_handlin...antiroll.lasso
Here is the header link to the whole topic of handling and understanding it all:
http://www.turnfast.com/tech_handling/handling.lasso
Good luck,
A.
[Modified by 1GreyTeg, 5:30 AM 7/28/2002]
Front or Rear bar or bars?
What other suspension mods do you currently have?
What handeling characteristics do you want the car to have? Underteer or Oversteer or the most Neutral?
They are actually called Anti-sway bars, and the ones that I've seen used most for the R are the Mugen 24 or 26mm and JDM/OEM/ITR 23mm. It depends how much oversteer you want and also "if" you are planning on doing full road course events as well. Many will report that they are happy with the thick *** mugen 26mm and still others will say that without a full suspension upgrade that a big bar like that will unbalance the R's feeling with a stock suspension, Especially on a road course...
The R's suspension is almost perfect "stock" in MANY peoples opinions, and Defiantely Perfect for Stock class racing. Upgrading it would require serious money at least $1500. to $2000. for a full suspension, not neccessarily including any anti-sway bars.
Heres a clear and informative link for further understanding the "swaybar":
http://www.turnfast.com/tech_handlin...antiroll.lasso
Here is the header link to the whole topic of handling and understanding it all:
http://www.turnfast.com/tech_handling/handling.lasso
Good luck,
A.
[Modified by 1GreyTeg, 5:30 AM 7/28/2002]
What class are you running in?
Front or Rear bar or bars?
What other suspension mods do you currently have?
What handeling characteristics do you want the car to have? Underteer or Oversteer or the most Neutral?
They are actually called Anti-sway bars, and the ones that I've seen used most for the R are the Mugen 24 or 26mm and JDM/OEM/ITR 23mm. It depends how much oversteer you want and also "if" you are planning on doing full road course events as well. Many will report that they are happy with the thick *** mugen 26mm and still others will say that without a full suspension upgrade that a big bar like that will unbalance the R's feeling with a stock suspension, Especially on a road course...
The R's suspension is almost perfect "stock" in MANY peoples opinions, and Defiantely Perfect for Stock class racing. Upgrading it would require serious money at least $1500. to $2000. for a full suspension, not neccessarily including any anti-sway bars.
Heres a clear and informative link for further understanding the "swaybar":
http://www.turnfast.com/tech_handlin...antiroll.lasso
Here is the header link to the whole topic of handling and understanding it all:
http://www.turnfast.com/tech_handling/handling.lasso
Good luck,
A.
[Modified by 1GreyTeg, 5:30 AM 7/28/2002]
Front or Rear bar or bars?
What other suspension mods do you currently have?
What handeling characteristics do you want the car to have? Underteer or Oversteer or the most Neutral?
They are actually called Anti-sway bars, and the ones that I've seen used most for the R are the Mugen 24 or 26mm and JDM/OEM/ITR 23mm. It depends how much oversteer you want and also "if" you are planning on doing full road course events as well. Many will report that they are happy with the thick *** mugen 26mm and still others will say that without a full suspension upgrade that a big bar like that will unbalance the R's feeling with a stock suspension, Especially on a road course...
The R's suspension is almost perfect "stock" in MANY peoples opinions, and Defiantely Perfect for Stock class racing. Upgrading it would require serious money at least $1500. to $2000. for a full suspension, not neccessarily including any anti-sway bars.
Heres a clear and informative link for further understanding the "swaybar":
http://www.turnfast.com/tech_handlin...antiroll.lasso
Here is the header link to the whole topic of handling and understanding it all:
http://www.turnfast.com/tech_handling/handling.lasso
Good luck,
A.
[Modified by 1GreyTeg, 5:30 AM 7/28/2002]
If you want you can get the JDM ITR 23mm rear sway bar, but it's not really worth it to upgrade a mm. I'd get the MUGEN 26mm rear bar, comes with a chassis reinforcement kit. (Even though you can build your own from Home Depot for $10)
Good luck.
Peace
Good luck.
Peace
and how would you know the difference ONE mm makes
have you tested both back to back , hmm...... I know someone who has
and it is a VERY big difference
22mm rear bar is for sissies , and 26mm is for people that run 1000lb springs
have you tested both back to back , hmm...... I know someone who has
and it is a VERY big difference
22mm rear bar is for sissies , and 26mm is for people that run 1000lb springs
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Actually 26mm keeps me from running 1000 lb springs in the rear 

and how would you know the difference ONE mm makes
have you tested both back to back , hmm...... I know someone who has
and it is a VERY big difference
22mm rear bar is for sissies , and 26mm is for people that run 1000lb springs
have you tested both back to back , hmm...... I know someone who has
and it is a VERY big difference
22mm rear bar is for sissies , and 26mm is for people that run 1000lb springs
Well considering you informed me that you are getting the 23mm bar to upgrade the 22mm bar you have which upgraded the GSR bar you've got. I'm gonna say A you have the 23mm so that means B you've tested both back to back.
I just dont understand why you posted that you would notice no difference in 1mm on a bar that you havent tested back to back
thats the only point I wanted to make.......
and that you have no idea what rear bar I have .........
Jamie - whos car rotates like a ****
thats the only point I wanted to make.......
and that you have no idea what rear bar I have .........
Jamie - whos car rotates like a ****
Well let's see. If you had an SI like I did with a macaroni noodle rear sway bar paying $125 to upgrade to a 23mm bar is an amazing investment. However, if you have an ITR with an already healthy 22mm rear sway bar and you did want to upgrade it, I would spend the money on the Mugen 26mm bar because you are paying $92.50 per mm rather then $125 per mm. Plus you got a hell of a rear sway bar. Which by the way no you don't need 1000lb springs.
That car will come around like its got them though with that bar.
That car will come around like its got them though with that bar.
have you ever seen anyone SNAP a rear swaybar because the springs werent stiff enough and the bar was doing too much?
OK , thanks
and ***** that mugen bar , anyone who pays for that thing should be shot
saner performance makes ANY size bar you want , any custom shape you want for half the price of that
and its the overall design and anchoring points that matter , not JUST the size
think about how much less flex the bar would have if it had less bends
think about how much more force the SAME size bar can exert if it anchors at the outer most part of the suspension
overpriced JDM crap........
OK , thanks
and ***** that mugen bar , anyone who pays for that thing should be shot
saner performance makes ANY size bar you want , any custom shape you want for half the price of that
and its the overall design and anchoring points that matter , not JUST the size
think about how much less flex the bar would have if it had less bends
think about how much more force the SAME size bar can exert if it anchors at the outer most part of the suspension
overpriced JDM crap........
Obviously stock ground control rates or stock springs are not gonna support that bar. 1000lb springs are not "NEEDED" to run it. Overpriced it may be, but crap it is not. I know you can get custom made bars at other places with minimal bends and solid if you'd like for way cheaper. I remember a certain someone who use to sweat the "*****" out of "JDM". Do not diss the quality of it. People that have the money can trust a name like Mugen even though they can get something custom for cheaper. They pay for it knowing the quality, knowing the fit and trusting people with years of Honda expierience. I'm hower fall into the poor catagory and can not afford this. However other's can. Just because it may be high priced and even overpriced it is by far "crap".
its stil overpriced because its JDM
I'm sure the quality is fine , but it is not the optimal bar design on that car
anchoring points and bends mean more than just size , the design of the bar is just a bigger ITR bar , seen it in person and was not impressed
yes its large , BUT it still anchors to far inward to the stock bar points and could be improved ALOT
all that JDM stuff doesnt even interest me due to the price gouging going on , it is without a doubt a ridiculous market right now and all the show cars need to go back to buying **** that doesnt do anything and leave some good products available for cars that could benefit from some very nice things coming from the east
my view is and will be ***** that JDM ****
get something that really performs while supporting a top-notch small business
the size of the ITR bars is big , BUT the design could be improved ten fold with some very small design changes
mugens bar is the same way , very large bar
very POOR design
I'm sure the quality is fine , but it is not the optimal bar design on that car
anchoring points and bends mean more than just size , the design of the bar is just a bigger ITR bar , seen it in person and was not impressed
yes its large , BUT it still anchors to far inward to the stock bar points and could be improved ALOT
all that JDM stuff doesnt even interest me due to the price gouging going on , it is without a doubt a ridiculous market right now and all the show cars need to go back to buying **** that doesnt do anything and leave some good products available for cars that could benefit from some very nice things coming from the east
my view is and will be ***** that JDM ****
get something that really performs while supporting a top-notch small business
the size of the ITR bars is big , BUT the design could be improved ten fold with some very small design changes
mugens bar is the same way , very large bar
very POOR design
Do you think I'm okay running ITR front and rear sway bars on 92 Civic HB with 8.5kg/7kg springrates? Am I any where close to having something snap or tear?
swap your springs front to rear
DO NOT buy a larger front bar for your car , it will induce understeer and the ITR front bar is very large
When your talking about poor design of the ITR sway bar, are you referring to the rear? What about the front? I noticed the ITR front sway bar is designed different from the 92-95 Civic Si/EX front sway ( <-- which is longer, mounts closer to the front LCA mounting points, and not as many bends).
Which ever rear sway bar I run (GSR/ITR), I'll be running the beaks kit, which they claim works better because it sits further back. Would the Beaks method help with any of the designs you did not like about factory mounting points?
Which ever rear sway bar I run (GSR/ITR), I'll be running the beaks kit, which they claim works better because it sits further back. Would the Beaks method help with any of the designs you did not like about factory mounting points?
have you tested both back to back , hmm...... I know someone who has
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silverCRXTC
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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