I just purchased a shaved door handle kit including solenoids, brain with remotes, relays, and hardware. My question is I have a 1998 Honda Prelude with the factory Honda alarm/ security. Can I wire the solenoids to work with my factory alarm remotes?? I am trying to avoid running more wires from the door to the inside of the car which = pain in the kulo. So it would be preffered to use a positive source that already exists in the door.

 

Certainly can. I'm unfamiliar with shaved door kits, but I assume the door is always "unlocked" and just pops when needed, yes?

If so, in the door panel, take the wire going to the door lock actuator and put it into your pop relay instead. Then, when you hit unlock with your OEM remote, it'll ground the unlock actuator wire, which'll hit the door pop wire instead, and open your door.

This is theoretical, but seems sound to me. Further input, audio/security/video?

(Edit: But, I'm unsure how much power is needed to pop the relay, you may end up having to run 1 wire, but not likely.)

 

Do i need to use a relay since the door actuator should already be on a relay?? Also I took the connector harness that goes to the door lock switch and stuck a test light in the connector while pressing the lock/unlock button on my factory remote to see which wire was positve. Well there is three wires in that connector I assume one for unlock one for lock and one for ground. what i discovered is that by sticking the test light in the connector it triggered the locks so instead of the test light lighting up it actually grounded the connector and triggered the locks??? I need a positive wire to go to the shaved door handle solenoid.

 

The door lock switch grounds the wires going to it. By you sticking the test lite in there, you grounded the wire (thru the test light), triggering the locks. If you want to get it working your way, pull the wires off the lock/unlock actuator and connect them to your door popper.

 

so the wire going to the lock actuator should be positive?? and then it would throw a positive current when i press the button on the factory remote?? and would i need a relay or could i just run it straight from the actuator since that should have its own fuse and relay setup??

 

It is unlikely that you will be able to use the stock door lock actuator wiring for the door release solenoid, the solenoid uses a lot more current, [power] then the door lock actuators.

You could run a proper gauge power lead into each door, install a relay in each door, use the stock actuator leads, [lock on one side and unlock on the other side] to trigger the relay, the relay would then supply power to the solenoid.
The above is not a problem if it's just a key-less entry, if it is also an alarm, you could only do one door, [unlock/disarm lead] or the door solenoid relay that is triggered by the actuators lock lead would also arm the alarm.

You will of coarse remove the door lock actuators, [you do not need to lock a door with no handle], and the outside handle and key cylinder and the linkage that goes with it, as none of it will be needed. 94

 

This is all good info i appreciate it!! but has anybody ever actually wired a shaved door handle kit this way?? FCM i kinda understand what you are saying that i could only wire one door to the unlock since i have an alarm and wouldnt be able to wire the second door to the lock, but i think my remote is set up so that if i press unlock once it unlocks drivers door only but if i hit it twice then it unlocks both doors... so this should work to wire both to the unlock position right??? also do I really need to run a thicker gauge wire to the actuator?? couldnt i just take the existing wire from the actuator, wire it to a relay, then use a thicker gauge wire from the relay to the solenoid???

 

If your car has "priority" door unlock, then yes you would use the unlock wire for both doors, [ground at rest and 12V+ when unlocking.
You would use the unlock lead to control a relay, [to #85 of relay, #86 of relay would be grounded] You would the run a fuse, appropriate gauge, lead to #30 of the relay and #87 of relay would go to the door release solenoid, and solenoid would be grounded.
Pressing unlock on remote once would disarm the alarm and "pop" the drivers door, pressing it again would "pop" the pass. door, [you would have to press it twice to "pop" the pass. door if not pressed the second time within the delay time. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your car has "priority" door unlock, then yes you would use the unlock wire for both doors, [ground at rest and 12V+ when unlocking.
You would use the unlock lead to control a relay, [to #85 of relay, #86 of relay would be grounded] You would the run a fuse, appropriate gauge, lead to #30 of the relay and #87 of relay would go to the door release solenoid, and solenoid would be grounded.
Pressing unlock on remote once would disarm the alarm and "pop" the drivers door, pressing it again would "pop" the pass. door, [you would have to press it twice to "pop" the pass. door if not pressed the second time within the delay time. 94 </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks FCM, so if I got this straight
the unlock wire (from actuator) would go to #85
the ground wire (from actuator) would go to #86
then i would have a looped fused wire from #30 and connecting to #87
and then from #87 to the solenoid
sorry to ask so many q's just wanna make sure i got this right. I know a lil about electronics but i havent done much with relays

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by carcraftlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thanks FCM, so if I got this straight
the unlock wire (from actuator) would go to #85

then i would have a looped fused wire from #30 and connecting to #87
and then from #87 to the solenoid
sorry to ask so many q's just wanna make sure i got this right. I know a lil about electronics but i havent done much with relays</TD></TR></TABLE>


the unlock wire (from actuator) would go to #85 Yes

the ground wire (from actuator) would go to #86 No, ground #86 to the car, your door locks use what is called "Ground at Rest Polarity Reversing" system, meaning both the wires going to the actuators motor are grounds, [at rest] when you unlock the doors the power door lock control module will "lift" the ground on one of the leads and supply it with 12V+ for about 1sec. then it will go back to being a ground, when you lock the doors the ground on the other lead is "lifted" and 12V+ is supplied to it for about 1sec..
You will not be using the lock wire off the actuators.

then i would have a looped fused wire from #30 and connecting to #87 No, you will need to run a fused lead, [from a 12V+ constant source] into each door, using the proper gauge wire for the solenoids, you will connect that 12V+ lead to #30 of the relay and run a lead, [same gauge] from #87 of the relay to the solenoids pos.(+) input, [ground the solenoid to the chassis]. 94

 

Thanks FCM!! I am going to give it a shot this weekend if i get a chance. any other input is more than welcomed and appreciated!!