I have called around the yards, there are no Integras with ABS junked here

There are legends, accords, preludes.....

is the r-l wheel sensor identical on any other hondacura?

I mainly need it to fit the mount point and match electrically
I dont mind chopping the wires and reusing the orig ones from the failed sensor
I just dont want to drop a comparatively big wad for a new one if I dont need to.

BTW, yes it is bad, it measures3-4 ohms instead of 800-1200 ohms
I bought this car from a guy that considered the fact that there was absolutely no pad left on that corner to be ok and acceptable to drive cross country with

 

will any other car's wheel sensor fit the mount point for the rear left wheel of a 1991 GS?

I will chop/swap the harness on the sensor if needed but I need to know if the sensor itself will match the characteristics of the teg's sensor

 

I spent a day going through the junkyard with my DMM
I found a few models with wheel sensors measuring ~900 ohms but only one had a sensor the same shape.
I carried my bad sensor with me to make sure it had the same mounting bracket.

the rear sensor from a 1988 Legend has the same mount and resistance as the DA/GS rear wheel sensors.
The cable routing and connector are of course different.

Junkyard sensor was $9 incl 30day wnty compared to over $100 for a new one, so it was worth some effort and I like to solder making this a good project for me.

Sorry I did not take pics along the way but if they are needed I will come up with some.

NOTE: The manual says to be sure the wires are not twisted when you replace the sensor so I took care to stress the wire as little as possible.

I removed the metal guides from the wires and stretched the wires out.
I slid the rubber grommets on the legend sensor to match the locations on DA wire (note they are glued so you may need to carefully persuade them to move). This way the new wire will fit into the DA's routing. Pay attetion to the white line on the wire, do not let it twist, just like the OEM mounting avoided.
The legend wire is longer than the DA's so you will remove a good length from it.
There is one grommet on the legend wire you will remove and you will need to add a pair of grommets(from the DA wire) to the end for the last metal guide b4 the clips and the plug
The best place to make your splice to the DA connector is in between the 2 clips that are the last thing the wire is held by before it plugs into the harness.(For the left sensor, I did not swap the right one)
This puts the splice at the highest point in the route so hopefully the driest too. It also lets you use the wire that is already shaped to fit those corners and make things neater.
NOTE!!! do not splice the connector onto the new wire until you have routed it beneath the strut. Neither the DA connector nor the sensor will fit through the gap and you would need to unbolt the strut or unmake your splice to get the wire routed in that case.

The Splice:
Once you have the grommets adjusted and the wire pulled through the gap under the strut you can now make your splice.
I took steps that may or may not be necessary, but i did not want to repair my repair so I erred on the side of caution.
I was very careful to note the twist of the red and white wires and once I had connected the wires I twisted the 2 wires around each other again before I sealed the splice.
You need:
1/8" & 3/8" heatshrink (DO NOT use tape)
rtv sealant (any silicone is fine)
solder kit(iron, solder, pliers/stripper....)

I stripped 2" of the outer jacket from one end and 1" from the other, leaving the cotton string intact.
Slip a 4" or longer piece of the 3/8" HS down the wire far enough away from the splice point so you dont accidentally heat it while soldering.
(You will probly need to slide the last grommet down the wire to make room for the HS.)
now cut 2 ~3/4" long pieces of 1/8"hs and slip them over the long end of the red and white wires.
strip the wires back about 1/4"(these are very fine wires, be careful not to cut the conductors)
(there are good threads on splicing elsewhere so I wont repeat the minutia)
after twisting the wires together be sure to hold the long end of the wire ahead of the HS so the heat from soldering does not shrink it.
once you have your wires soldered coat the solder joint with silicone well then slip the HS over the joint and shrink it (I found out that wet silicone will ignite so if you use a lighter to shrink your tubing take care )
now that you have them sealed twist the wire as I mentioned above, then cover the area with a liberal amount of silicone and work the strings into it. Now slip the large tubing over the slpice and if possible use the tip of the silicone tube to inejct as much as possible into the tubing after you have it placed evenly over the spice.
now shrink it(it may take more persistence to shrink than usual because the mass of silicone inside the tubing will sink the heat from the tubing preventing it from shrinking fully so carefully heat it till you are sure it will shrink no more (dont over heat it, the tubing will spit)

Finally you can now start mounting your new sensor. start by securing the wire into the guide that mounts to the knuckle then bolting the sensor to the knuckle and moving up the wire re fitting the grommets into the guides and crimping them in place before bolting the guide down (REMEMBER keep the wire straight, pay attention to the white line).

the splice you made should neatly clip into the holders immediately before the connector

now go for a drive and enjoy the lack of an ABS error code