Hi Guys,

Could you please help a fellow ITR owner out. I've tried fitting a set of blox camber arms to the front of my '98 ITR. I found that these arms will not allow full standard suspension travel with the wheels off the ground. Is this correct??

Basically the ball joint on the camber arm does not have enough angular movement. Surely this will stress the ball joint resulting in a failure. Have any of you guys had this problem??

 

I'm personally not a fan of Blox products, this being an example. It sounds like product R&D was not put into this product.

What is keeping the suspension from traveling? Is the piece binding, is it hitting the fender area? If it is hitting the inner fender area you may be able flatten out the area with a sledge.

 

Nothing is hitting anything.If I disconnect the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle, I can get full travel of the lower control arm and spring/damper unit. The blox ball joint doesn't have enough angular movement to allow full extension of the suspension, if you get what I mean. With the standard upper control arm fitted, I have no issues with suspension travel. It certainly seems strange as to why the blox camber arms would do this

 

Are the camber arms the only thing you changed? I am not positive that stock arms with the shocks installed you can get full drop.

 

I understand exactly what you're saying. I'm also not a fan of Blox products. It seems that they cheaped out when finding a ball joint supplier. Personally I would either return back to stock or get something higher quality. I'm using Buddy Club upper control arms and they've been fantastic thus far.

 

The only thing I have tried to change are the standard upper control arms for the Blox adjustable camber upper control arms.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I understand exactly what you're saying. I'm also not a fan of Blox products. It seems that they cheaped out when finding a ball joint supplier. Personally I would either return back to stock or get something higher quality. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree.

 

OP- I hope this isn't a bitter lesson for you. This may be a good example of why many of us pursue higher grade products, ie brand names. Sometimes these brand names offer nothing more than a name, but they usually offer a higher grade product. In either case, I always recommend searching before making a purchase. Best of luck figuring our your next step.

 

Nah, It's not a bitter lesson for me . I just wondered if any of you guys have blox camber arms and have had the same issue. I bought them second hand, unused. So what do you guys recommend that will allow <U></U>FULL SUSPENSION TRAVEL????<U></U> Skunk2??

 

I have run the Omni-Power units in the past without any issues. I'm undecided on what units i will run in the future. I'm searching right now through Wicked Products line. I thought they had a set available but I am not finding any.

Wicked Tuning Products
*Try not to get sticker shock. Those are MSRP prices, not what they actually sell for.

 

how low are you? There's not much point in them over stock, non-adjustable ones unless you're trying to add more negative camber.

 

I wanted to use them in conjuction with eibach lowering springs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostedvti &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wanted to use them in conjuction with eibach lowering springs</TD></TR></TABLE>

which ones?

 

Erik's point is, you may not need these units if you are simply trying to correct negative camber.

 

Eibach pro kit. Well there's no way I'll be fitting these Blox camber arms. I just wanted to keep the camber to factory spec after the car was lowered.
I had to fit a camber correction kit to my previous car (1992 Honda Civic VTi). This was a Whiteline kit that had eccentric spacers in the upper control arms. I figured that with my ITR I'd get camber arms this time buy hey, you live and learn.

 

definitely no need for them with the pro-kit. Just zero your toe front and rear and you'll have no more adverse tire wear than you would in factory spec. It'll grip a little better as well.