Well with all these oil consumption threads and rebuild threads starting. I wanted to get a little more in detail about what some options are as far as getting it fixed. My R as many of yours burns oil in WOT/VTEC. I searched a bunch of different threads, including "oil consumption" "engine rebuild" "b18c5 for sale" etc.

My conclusion was that I am not sure what I want to do, or how much I want to spend which is what most threads came down to. Or mostly, how concerned should I really be? I have been told and read lots of different opinions. "Don't worry about it, its just your oil control rings" or "as long as there is good compression its all good" or "thats really common" My issue also revolves around the fact that I have replaced a valve, and the entire head in 2 attempts to fix it. to me for not getting into the bottom end in the first place. I have pretty much given up on this specific motor. But this head does have skunk2 valvetrain.

So here is what I came up with, and would like your honest opinion.

option #1: bite the bullet, by a SPOON crate motor, drop it in forget about it.

option #2: rebuild the entire bottom end w/OEM parts, I don't personally like this one cause of the head issues

option #3: rebuild the entire bottom end w/aftermarket parts, don't like cause of #2

option #4: buy a JDM motor from hmotorsonline, and forget about it. until the rings go out.

option #5: just leave it like it is and enjoy the black chimney on the yellow caR.

option #6: buy a motor that someone else built, don't like because it might not be a specific setup or trustworthy

Thanks in advance, I was hoping to help others in the same situation.

some pics for more views

 

I vote option #2.. my daily R motor is now showing same symptoms as yours

I say just refresh the bottom end thats what I plan on doing

 

My R had 96k on it and i had the bottom end rebuild. I still get a little smoke in v-tec and burn a little oil. Everyone I know has a different opinion on it. It was rebuilt by a Acura mechanic with oem parts. So i'v said screw it i'll just wash my rear bumper alot.

 

I say #2, my c5 is getting new pistons (JDM ITR) and new bearings, pretty much a fresh rebuild, and my head is getting a full P&P with skunk2 Valve train, shes is going to be a DD and they do pretty well with head work...and tuning

 

Your best option is going to be:

Replace your valve seals (and the guides if they are worn)....nothing else in the head is causing you do burn oil like that.

Pull the bottom end apart and freshen it up. Hone if needed, replace the rings and all seals....put it back together and enjoy a non-oil burning car.

 

I've got an even better idea for you...

Save/sell what's in the car now.

Buy my Dealership OEM long block (that's 0 miles, never installed, never rebuilt... just as you would buy from a dealership) for 3K and save one buying a used motor from HM or others. Get another 100k out of it or better.

No head issues to worry about here, and still less than it would be from HM and others, and BRAND NEW!!!

Can get all paperwork from Len as Dealership if wanted... Check the FS/WTB ad for pictures.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've got an even better idea for you...

Save/sell what's in the car now.

Buy my Dealership OEM long block (that's 0 miles, never installed, never rebuilt... just as you would buy from a dealership) for 3K and save one buying a used motor from HM or others. Get another 100k out of it or better.

No head issues to worry about here, and still less than it would be from HM and others, and BRAND NEW!!!

Can get all paperwork from Len as Dealership if wanted... Check the FS/WTB ad for pictures. </TD></TR></TABLE>My #1 choice

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dyingwish &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your best option is going to be:

Replace your valve seals (and the guides if they are worn)....nothing else in the head is causing you do burn oil like that.

Pull the bottom end apart and freshen it up. Hone if needed, replace the rings and all seals....put it back together and enjoy a non-oil burning car.

</TD></TR></TABLE>My #2 choice if you can't afford #1

 

ok, looks like #2 is the best, actually I want to buy Dave_B's longblock so Im gonna work on that.


Another question for you is:
I dont really trust myself that much. So is the SPOON longblock worth the money?

****&lt;&lt;&lt;goes to bank for a $3500 signature loan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by typeR#0427 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, looks like #2 is the best, actually I want to buy Dave_B's longblock so Im gonna work on that.


Another question for you is:
I dont really trust myself that much. So is the SPOON longblock worth the money?

****&lt;&lt;&lt;goes to bank for a $3500 signature loan </TD></TR></TABLE>No, For that amount money, I'll stick with Dave's factory long block.

 

Dont want to jack your thread but im having the same issues, except mine smokes ALOT just in idle, i dont even dare to drive it right now. I got a jdm itr swap, and put 2000 miles on it and now im having this issue. I brought the head to a machine shop, so i know my problem is in the bottom end. Should I go to the person who got me this motor and see if he can compensate me for some money? b/c i dont think i should be having this issue since i paid for a full swap. So now i am at the same fork in the road as typeR#0427. Should i take apart motor, freshen up the bottom end. or buy a new long block from len? Dont mean to jack your thread just read your post and noticed im having the same problems as you are.

 

^ wouldnt smoking at idle be causesd by bad valve seals?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by letsdrive &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^ wouldnt smoking at idle be causesd by bad valve seals?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, but head was totally dissasembled,cleaned, pressure tested with new oem valve seals. and still smokes as it did before head was rebuilt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 01_ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, but head was totally dissasembled,cleaned, pressure tested with new oem valve seals. and still smokes as it did before head was rebuilt. </TD></TR></TABLE>

your not thread jacking, this is exactly why I started this thread. you see I have done the same thing as you, IE: new valves, valve seats, guides, springs and retainers. Now I know for a fact that the rings are giving way. Seems like these motors after about 90K miles are smoking badly. And I would assume most of us with DD R's are gonna run across this issue. I think on my behalf its mostly embarrassing and I'm tired of having the smell in the cabin

It looks like the cheapest option is to go with new OEM parts and a machine shop for honing etc. But I was trying to avoid doing ALOT of work. Or Dave_B's set-up,which is my new #1

 

I don't see how replacing a valve or the head would've fixed your oil consumption in any scenario.

If your compression is good, your valves are sealing properly and your compression rings are in good condition. Valve seals will cause oil burn upon a cold start or after vacuum conditions like idling at a red light. If you're only experiencing oil consumption at wot/vtec, replace the pcv and see if that fixes the issue, as a faulty pcv valve will cause consumption under those conditions. If the problem's still there after that, it's your oil control rings.

Btw, you haven't said how much oil you're burning. If you're only using oil at wot/vtec and you don't a.) track the car or b.) use vtec frequently dd'ng the car, I'd just leave it alone.

If you do fall under one of those two, rebuild the motor yourself. It's simple if you're systematic, meticulous and work in a clean space. The parts total for a shortblock rebuild is around $700 with oem parts + $100 for machining the cylinders. Most cost effective option by far.

 

you are right, I was under some bad guidance at the time. other than bad valve seals, however, I did have a burned valve the first time, and a poorly replaced valve the second time. therefore I just replaced the head at said **** it.

Now the compression is good, but the oil consumption has gotten worse. I did forget to mention how much oil is consumed and what else I have done, vinuneuro you have some good points in your reply.

So heres the run-down of what I have done:
First time, CEL for misfire codes, timing issues due to bad cam gear settings etc. led me to a compression test with very little to no compression in CYL#2. Fix- figured burned valve:


So I had the valve replaced by a "friend" and he didn't seat the valve properly at all or Im assuming he didn't cut anything

Fix: bought a typeR head from another H-T member: w/Skunk2 valvetrain

seems fine,

now the consumption problem:
changed PCV valve, twice, now im looking into the block(rings)

I DD the car, and auto-X 4-5 times a year, and have recently started some HPDE events, so I feel this needs to be fixed. I'm probably burning through about 1 quart a month depending on conditions, but I drive about 20-25 miles on the weekday and about 10-15 miles on the weekend. The car just turned 97000 miles on the odometer.

 

^^^ had the same issue. one my valves cracked. replaced valves. replaced pcv and still having issues. Only problem im having is this is a JDM swap i bought 4 months ago....I should be going after the distributer for my money back...or some type of compensation.

 

where did you get the motor from 01_ITR?

 

Local friend of the families vendor who he gets a lot of motors from. I dont know exact name or specifics.

 

man id be looking to get something, at least some help getting it fixed.

heres something funny i just stumbled upon in GDD:

http://web.archive.org/web/200...rum=8

**check out the 6th thread down

 

im going to say rebuilt the block.. thats what im doing right now. i put a hole in the exhaust valve on 3 and i had the head rebuilt, PnP and oversized intake valves.. put the head back on found compression to be low on 3 drove it for 5k started smoking bad and now the longblock is at the shop getting all new parts put in..

depends on how far u wanna go. i was trying to keep the vin motor with the car. not that it makes much of a difference to some people

 

did the whole in your valve look similar to mine?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by John Z &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im going to say rebuilt the block.. thats what im doing right now. i put a hole in the exhaust valve on 3 and i had the head rebuilt, PnP and oversized intake valves.. put the head back on found compression to be low on 3 drove it for 5k started smoking bad and now the longblock is at the shop getting all new parts put in..

depends on how far u wanna go. i was trying to keep the vin motor with the car. not that it makes much of a difference to some people</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did a compression test and it read 240 across the board. I got a jdm swap so if i do have to buy a short block i wont have the VIN issue. Right now im at the point of new short block? or refresh bottom end with new oem parts.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by typeR#0427 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did the whole in your valve look similar to mine? </TD></TR></TABLE>

idk who your talking to buy mine did look similar, but mine looked as if it melted or chipped upwards...

 

I was asking Jon Z, sorry I forgot to quote him. I watched your video in your other thread and the smoke that is expelled from your exhaust looks more white to me than blue/black smoke, your not loosing coolant are you?

 

coolant levels appear to be normal. losing massive amounts of oil though...

 

my valve looked similar, i had a bad misfire.

when i did my comp test i was 220 230 180 220 when i put the new head on