I just put some new pads and rotors on my 89 4 door, the old ones were getting pretty worn. Now under braking above 35mph a get a fairly violent shake on the passenger side (steering wheel shakes left and right it feels like the wheel is loose), I have done brakes alot of times and never had any issues, the wheels on the car are 86 crx SI wheels (maybe the hub is not flush?) I also did not use the retaining screws because they were not on the car. All bolts are tight also 2 on the backside of the caliper and the lug nuts.

 

it may just be a simple alignment issue to be honest

 

The issue was not present before the brake job though.

 

yea but it is very easy to knock your alignment out of wack....i mean usually if theres a break problem you get a thump or a grinding noise...with alignment the wheel shakes at high speed and heavy breaking...idont know maybe theres something i dont know im sure theres some other poeple that will chime in

 

you might of got a bad rotor. where did you get the rotors from?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goldbomb79 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you might of got a bad rotor. where did you get the rotors from?</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is what I was thinking also, it is a mastercraft from autozone. (cheap)

 

yea, they carry a couple different grades of rotors. The cheapest ones warp pretty quickly. I'd say it either that, or you got something behind it when you mounted everything back together since it didn't shake before you put on new brakes

 

Tried a different rotor same problem it feels like the wheel is going to fall off and shakes pretty good, the lugs are all tight I am lost..

 

There are only a couple things this could be.

I would say that it would have been the rotor but you said that you changed it already.

I would check the castle nut on the tie rod end to make sure it's tight. If it's loose you will get play under braking.

 

dude get your aligment done...it might need to be done anyway and see if it fixes your prblem....its wiorth the 40-80 bucks

 

What would the alignment have to do with the shake?

Alignment = pulling
Shaking = mechanical issue

Even if he had toe out the but it still wouldn't cause the car to shake under braking only.

 

there are countless threads on where they had steering wheel shake and it was from alignment

 

usually with steering wheel shake its either the alignment of a a bad hub bearing..i dont know i guess i could be wrong

 

I'm sure it's something mechanical.

If it wasn't there before and now it is then he must have done something to cause the problem.

I do this stuff every day at work.

 

well your right, but you should also know that one good whack with a hammer to the axle nut or even the rotor/caliber assembly can knock an alignment out of whack...thats all im saying....ive been through it and thats why i do all the work myself...i spend almost 600 bucks on my old, i believe they were p7s ot p0's (pirelli's) when they first came out and all i did was change my rotors and it was out of whack...why? i have no idea thats why i brought this up

 

vtecb18c is more than correct;i had a terible pull to the right on my ef and my brakes on the side would make horrible thudding noise if i braked quickly.Today i had an alignment done and my mechanic said it was out "a country mile"do this first cost me $60 for 4 wheel alignment definately worth it.

 

You know what it was guys..... Somehow a metal shaving got on the hub and behind the brake it was very small but enough to throw it out of wack, now I have a brand new warped rotor haha!

 

wow really??? well at least you got it figures it out...i would still get an alignment lol....im glad you got it all straightened out tho now you have nothin to worry about(for now) lol

 

glad to hear you got it fixed. I figured it was either the rotor or you got something behind it when you put it all back together. the brakes don't like the rotor not being true. lol

 

I have never had any issue like that. The tie rod and the strut are the only thing that would effect the alignment of the car.

We could sit here and go at this all day but in the end his problem is solved.

Mechanical like I said lol.

 

oh ok chris you wanna be that guy...so when you hit a curb and it knocks your alignment off its strut related?? tie ro, yea maybe but it doesnt take much to throw your alignment ut of whack....a deep pothole can throw it out of line...its very hard to dis-align a shock or strut since the control arms have barely any flex when you hit somethin so i dont know what your talking about

 

Easy killer

 

i'm calm...goossee-frraaa-bbaaa...goosse-frraa-baaaa

 

LOL damnit oh well lifetime warranty on the rotor so I will be picking a new one sometime in the next week I found the problem by taking the wheel off and jacking the car up then letting it run in 5th gear I could see the brake wobbling bad pulled it off damn shaving was smashed against the hub.

 

oh ok chris you wanna be that guy...so when you hit a curb and it knocks your alignment off its strut related?? tie ro, yea maybe but it doesnt take much to throw your alignment ut of whack....a deep pothole can throw it out of line...its very hard to dis-align a shock or strut since the control arms have barely any flex when you hit somethin so i dont know what your talking about


I'm not being that guy. Think about what your saying.

First off, if you hit a curb then your going to bend something and thats that.
If you hit a pothole then you can shift the cam bolts or rack which would cause your alignment to be off. The tierods bend very easy with enough force along with the control arms.

Factory cars have rubber bushings and mounts for many reasons. This is so that there is play in the suspension to reduce noise, vibration, and increase comfort for the consumer.

"Race" setups have solid aluminum bushings or bearing type, solid mounts, pillow ball strut plates, tubular control arms and so on to elminate the play and mooshy feeling that a factory car has to improve response and improve handling which increase noise and can make a car nonstreet friendly.
This is why when you go and buy solid mounts, aluminum or tubular control arms they say "for off road use only".

This is because cars that are setup like this break control arms when street driven which you obviously know nothing about.