98 CRV 2 WD Auto Trans issue
Big vibration under power, but only when turning. Feels like a pinon in the diff, but I am new to the FWD style of transmission. Right halfshaft has been replaced along with both joints on that side, and all engine mounts are good.
Comments and suggestions?
Also, when checking the AT gear selector switch on the end on the trans, I get continuity between pins 1, 3 and 10, but can's shift the selector lever in the car unless I plug the pigtail back in. Even then, after changing the gear shift lever position to another gear, engine off, and undoing the connection (behind the starter motor) I get no continuity beween the other pins.
Am I doing this correctly? Comments and suggestions here also.
Thanks.
Modified by rallyestu at 5:33 PM 10/14/2008
Modified by rallyestu at 5:39 PM 10/14/2008
Comments and suggestions?
Also, when checking the AT gear selector switch on the end on the trans, I get continuity between pins 1, 3 and 10, but can's shift the selector lever in the car unless I plug the pigtail back in. Even then, after changing the gear shift lever position to another gear, engine off, and undoing the connection (behind the starter motor) I get no continuity beween the other pins.
Am I doing this correctly? Comments and suggestions here also.
Thanks.
Modified by rallyestu at 5:33 PM 10/14/2008
Modified by rallyestu at 5:39 PM 10/14/2008
Yes. All lights work on the indicator, so I guess that meand that the selector is properly working. I guess that all it does is ndicate where the swich is set, rather than actually move the shift selector, is that right?
The xles themselves seem to be OK, but I'm not so sure about the differential, as when under power, it feels like a tooth is missing. The odd part is that it seems ok when running straight.
When replacing the RH axle shaft, I could run my finger on the splines inside the transmission, and it didn't seem bad, but there didi seem to be a milled cut every so often in the output splines.
From what I could see inside, viewing from the outside of the transmission (not disassembled) all looked OK. Maybe its time for a borescope look inside (new tool!!)
Anyone else ever experience a blown pinion in a FWD car?
The xles themselves seem to be OK, but I'm not so sure about the differential, as when under power, it feels like a tooth is missing. The odd part is that it seems ok when running straight.
When replacing the RH axle shaft, I could run my finger on the splines inside the transmission, and it didn't seem bad, but there didi seem to be a milled cut every so often in the output splines.
From what I could see inside, viewing from the outside of the transmission (not disassembled) all looked OK. Maybe its time for a borescope look inside (new tool!!)
Anyone else ever experience a blown pinion in a FWD car?
OK. Replaced both front axles and all CV Joints. Replaced all engine and transmission mounts. No improvement. So, the transmission will come out.
I will take a photo of what is found, assuming that the cause if located!
I hope to be able to do it by Thursday or Friday!
I will take a photo of what is found, assuming that the cause if located!
I hope to be able to do it by Thursday or Friday!
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It is actually why I got the car, which was purchased "as is" from one of my office staff for my youngest daughter. I had been after my co-worker to sell me the car when it was in good shape. Then, when she came back from her vacation, she told me that the trans had gone out and I asked her how much.
I suspect that her daughter had been doing donuts with it and after a few rounds something locked up. Since there are no clutches in teh 2 wheel drive transaxle, something went, and on it goes.
Anyway, I've decided to go th ecomplete rebuild route, complete with new torque converter and external trans oil cooler for longevity and due to the high likelyhoof of excess metal in the lines and cooler.
I still plan on posting the photos so all can see and be amazed at the carnage. The teeth on one of the pinion gears were almost nubs and the shaft was dropping between them.
I guess that when a fwd car does donuts, it doesn't have the tendancy to slide as a rear wheel drive car does under the same loading, hence the blown final drive.
For those that wonder how it happens, that's my best assessment.
I suspect that her daughter had been doing donuts with it and after a few rounds something locked up. Since there are no clutches in teh 2 wheel drive transaxle, something went, and on it goes.
Anyway, I've decided to go th ecomplete rebuild route, complete with new torque converter and external trans oil cooler for longevity and due to the high likelyhoof of excess metal in the lines and cooler.
I still plan on posting the photos so all can see and be amazed at the carnage. The teeth on one of the pinion gears were almost nubs and the shaft was dropping between them.
I guess that when a fwd car does donuts, it doesn't have the tendancy to slide as a rear wheel drive car does under the same loading, hence the blown final drive.
For those that wonder how it happens, that's my best assessment.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rallyestu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Since there are no clutches in teh 2 wheel drive transaxle, </TD></TR></TABLE>
Every Honda made auto has clutches.
Every Honda made auto has clutches.
Yes you are correct that the Transmission itself has clutches. Perhaps I was not specific. The final drive and differential is not of a clutch type system, and may be subject to the stresses upon repeated, continuous hard cornering in the same direction.
<<<<<<This is the best I could do for posting a photo of the culprit.
If someone really wants a photo, I can send it to them! Going through the transmission and differential and final drive cured the problem!
If someone really wants a photo, I can send it to them! Going through the transmission and differential and final drive cured the problem!
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