Not sure where I would get more help. here or in the civic forum.

I have a 00 civic SI and I just bought a 00 ITR swap. I put it in and then realized that the obd2b 00 itr ecu has an immobilizer built in so the car just cranks but won't start. I've been told so many different things about the chip and noone can give me a clear cut answer as to how to remove it.

Does anyone here know of a way to remove it safely?

I am running this motor on the stock b16 ecu and it is running lean and I HAVE to drive to work everyday so I jsut try to stay under 3k rpms.

ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

 

i have been told, that u can take the car to the dealership, and they can make u a chipped key that works with the itr ecu, does anyone else have any info about this?

 

Um, don't take this too personally.....but the immobilizer was put in to slightly hinder the theft and use of some parts of the R. Granted, thieves are pretty good a getting around this ish....but would you mind showing a pic of the VIN tag still on your block before R owners here try to help get a possibly hot motoR/ECU working? Plus any info you know about that ITR. It's a legitimate concern that I hope you understand.

 

absolutely I will take a pic later today when I get off of work. I know the ITR was a total loss and the guy rebuilt it but now is going K series. The car is a yellow itr and I can get the badge number also. But yes I will take a pic of the vin on the motor for ya.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doespike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Um, don't take this too personally.....but the immobilizer was put in to slightly hinder the theft and use of some parts of the R. Granted, thieves are pretty good a getting around this ish....but would you mind showing a pic of the VIN tag still on your block before R owners here try to help get a possibly hot motoR/ECU working? Plus any info you know about that ITR. It's a legitimate concern that I hope you understand. </TD></TR></TABLE>

AND!!! the info should be passed along via PM... not on a public forum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

AND!!! the info should be passed along via PM... not on a public forum. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So I should not post the pic of what you need to de-solder to remove the immobilizer?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

AND!!! the info should be passed along via PM... not on a public forum. </TD></TR></TABLE>

why? this info has been posted on here for years...even with pictures...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx(gator) &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why? this info has been posted on here for years...even with pictures...</TD></TR></TABLE>

and with 100-150 dollars, someone can buy an easy-to-obtain JDM ITR ecu and not have the immobilizer issue.

Seriously, if someone is stealing cars, they obviously know how to get around the joke of a honda immobilizer.

 

So feeding the alligators is now acceptable?

how about the idiot that purchased the stolen goods who is the end user and trying to install into his/her car? What then? Help them out too I suppose.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So feeding the alligators is now acceptable?

how about the idiot that purchased the stolen goods who is the end user and trying to install into his/her car? What then? Help them out too I suppose.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I see it as -- The alligators already know how to feed themselves.


Following that rule of thought -- the ECU is the smallest part of the stolen parts puzzle. I am 100% behind trying to stomp out stolen goods, for example when I read a post about stolen parts I scan eBay every morning for goods from that area. I am currently on the lookout for 1998 stuff from around Irvine, CA and looking out for stolen ITR goods from Chicago-land area on eBay as well.

But how bout the million other parts that are frequently bought and sold? Just like the ITR ECU with immbilizer, we have no idea if those other items are stolen. Why is it okay to help people with problems with their ITR related parts that _may_ be stolen? I just see it as a double standard. Lots of parts are stolen in Japan for export, but we never question those goods either.

I think the ITR community can be the most vigilant about preventing stolen goods from entering the marketplace by trying to tie the crime to the goods (ITR car stolen in Irvine, CA and then we see OC craigs list flooded with 1998 ITR items for example) or by doing your research before buying the items. Speculating that ITR goods are stolen simply because someone asks for help doesn't really do much.

 

My speculation (if you will call it that) was not based around the OP asking for help...

My point was simple and was this...

WHY ADD FUEL TO THE FIRE???

If they know how to feed themselves, let them be it... but why contribute to that?

And if you also take a look at my first post... I advised to send the information via PM.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My speculation (if you will call it that) was not based around the OP asking for help...

My point was simple and was this...

WHY ADD FUEL TO THE FIRE???

If they know how to feed themselves, let them be it... but why contribute to that?

And if you also take a look at my first post... I advised to send the information via PM.</TD></TR></TABLE>

good points It is important to have that balance.

 

I am going to try to take a pic of the vin right now but it's dark outside so im not sure how it will turn out.

 

Well my camera has a built in LED light so it worked great!

Hope this proves I didn't steal it. Look up the vin if you feel the need.

 

Jesus christ, stfu who cares... honda's thieft's efforts are a [freak]en joke.. trust me.. this guy asked for simple help.. Why keep obdII anyway, get a conversion harness and be done.

 

I ran the VIN with the National Insurance Crime Bureau and it came up clear of any insurance theft records. It does come up with a Total Loss by Collision on 6/30/04.

Thank you for your co-operation mang I hope you weren't offended and that you understand that some of us want to do whatever can be done, big or small to put a dent in stolen goods. I'm sure someone will be able to help you get your motoR running

To those who would rather shrug and not ask, eff you. You're part of the problem.

 

just im the guy already. and me too whie your at it for a type s ecu. not thread jacking just so that you know......

 

Thank you. I knew it wasn't stolen so I don't care. Im not offended I completely understand your concerns. I already had an SI stolen from me so I am on board for anything and everything you are willing to do to stop theft. I wish you could have found some of my parts from my SI that are irreplaceable. Please IM me asap so I can figure this out.

 

Any other "important" info other than via IM will equal in a lock.

cheers,


yack

 

Ok well please everyone obide by that because I need info. If you want to just email me the info send it to bonaferacing@hotmail.com

THanks!

 

Just got some info but I would like to know if anyone has the way to remove the immobilizer while not making the ecu read an internal error causing the check engine light to be on.

Is tis possible?

 

yes, you need a certain resistor...if you do a search, there are a bunch of threads about this...

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1095022

 

all the info has been deleted out of those threads so if anyone knows please let me know. thanks.

 

ya it seems anything that they thought would help thieves was deleted

search around google and you will find some resistors or chips that replace it and you will be fine

OR you can just convert to obd1 with a chipped p28 and have the best of all worlds (unless you have emissions testing)

 

just get a chipped obd1 ecu with an itr basemap and call it a day.