Hey there ppl. I'm currently working on my ALL MOTOR H22 enginer nuild & i have the following setup:

89mm Arias Pistons with 12.2 CR w sleeved block "Iron sleeves"
H22 5.633 eagle rods
H22 stock cranck shaft
Ported polished head stage 2 or 3 "not sure"
Skunk2 pro 2 camshafts
Skunk2 IM
Skunk2 cam gears
DH racing dual springs/retainers kit
DH 0.5 high compression 1mm oversize intake & stock size flat exhaust
DH racing 69mm TB
DH racing special made 89mm bore SLSSCC head gasket
ARP head studs
OBX fuel rail
450 cc DSM injectors
Hondata S300
MFactory 4.64 final gear ring & pinion kit
ACT non sprung hub 4 puck rough engage clutch disc
CAI from UR
Megan headers 4-2-1 with test pipe
53 in godspeed aluminum racing radiator with a couple of slim fans
MSD external blaster coil with MSD cap & wires

I'M STILL WORKING ON GTHE BUILD BUT I HAVE THE FOLLOWING PROBLEM:

After i installed them & rotated the crank, i found the flat part of the piston is actually lower than the deck with 2.5 mm . i know this kills my compression from over 13:1 to below 10 or even 9.5. i was thinking to either :a) take 2 mm off the block "milling" or b) find 2mm longer rods or c) buy another set of pistons.

P.S: i bought h=the pistons from ebay from a gay who had them made special for him. I'm attaching photos for every thing.

What do you guys think

Thx in advance for all your help

 

ebay pistons #1.. i'd find longer rods or new pistons before taking 2mm's off the block lmao

 

measure the deck height and order another set of pistons

 

Quick question: if he did take 2mm off the block, wouldn't the cam timing be really far off?

 

yes

 

what is going to happen to the cam timing? what will happen if i take 2mm off the block? i mean obviously the problem is that the distance between the pin & the piston's crown is less than stock,what is the relation between this & the head & cam timing? I know there might be something seriously wrong about this that's why i'm asking u guys. I sent an email to http://www.Eaglerod.com to ask them if they cam make 2.5mm longer rods for me to best solve this situation. "i'm not very much keen on loosing 2.5mm off the block & especially after what u guys told me" & i'm guessing after i install these longer rods, the engine response should be faster, i mean with the piston's crown closer to the rod i should be able to riv higher, right? What HP & TQ number u guys expect me to put with this setup & do u have any other recommendations? i'm thinking of buying the Dual Throttle body setup from Dave Heckman "DH Racing" is that better than the ITB's from TWM?

Once again, Thx in advance for all the help & technical advice

 

Dear Integra Type R,

Much respect paid to a person with great experience whom i personally have learned alot from your postings, not to mention Donf & other experienced guys like yourself on H-T, i watched all your threads for like a year or so before i sterted the build & got the money for it... but i wanna make one explanation here, These pistons were specially made by ARIAS for some guys & he changed his all motor built & decided to go for FI. i donno why exaclty these pistons had different dimensions from stock "pin to crown distance" but i'm guessing he either had longer rods or shorter block. not really sure. I bought them from Tommy "Larry's car service". he said there were made for H22..!!!

I need to upload photos here to share with u all the photos i have & see what u all think of the P&P work that was done to my head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kuwait_Lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dear Integra Type R,

Much respect paid to a person with great experience whom i personally have learned alot from your postings, not to mention Donf & other experienced guys like yourself on H-T, i watched all your threads for like a year or so before i sterted the build & got the money for it... but i wanna make one explanation here, These pistons were specially made by ARIAS for some guys & he changed his all motor built & decided to go for FI. i donno why exaclty these pistons had different dimensions from stock "pin to crown distance" but i'm guessing he either had longer rods or shorter block. not really sure. I bought them from Tommy "Larry's car service". he said there were made for H22..!!!

I need to upload photos here to share with u all the photos i have & see what u all think of the P&P work that was done to my head.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thx you.
1) I buy things from ebay as well, but nothing something that would hold the entire engine in its hands..
2) If you know the true specs i'd assume that they're ok but i can't say they are, i'm not holding them in my hands..

YOU Should try to find a longer rod or new pistons.. never take 2mm's off a head or block.

Btw this isn't dave hickman huh.

 

 

 

wow! that's plenty of PDH right there. you can run a stage 10 cams, LOL

i'm with IntegraType-R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

YOU Should try to find a longer rod or new pistons.. never take 2mm's off a head or block.</TD></TR></TABLE>

aren't H22 stock conrods = 5.629" ?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kuwait_Lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey there ppl. I'm currently working on my ALL MOTOR H22 enginer nuild & i have the following setup:

89mm Arias Pistons with 12.2 CR w sleeved block "Iron sleeves"
H22 5.633 eagle rods
H22 stock cranck shaft
Ported polished head stage 2 or 3 "not sure"
Skunk2 pro 2 camshafts
Skunk2 IM
Skunk2 cam gears
DH racing dual springs/retainers kit
DH 0.5 high compression 1mm oversize intake & stock size flat exhaust
DH racing 69mm TB
DH racing special made 89mm bore SLSSCC head gasket
ARP head studs
OBX fuel rail
450 cc DSM injectors
Hondata S300
MFactory 4.64 final gear ring & pinion kit
ACT non sprung hub 4 puck rough engage clutch disc
CAI from UR
Megan headers 4-2-1 with test pipe
53 in godspeed aluminum racing radiator with a couple of slim fans
MSD external blaster coil with MSD cap & wires

I'M STILL WORKING ON GTHE BUILD BUT I HAVE THE FOLLOWING PROBLEM:

After i installed them & rotated the crank, i found the flat part of the piston is actually lower than the deck with 2.5 mm . i know this kills my compression from over 13:1 to below 10 or even 9.5. i was thinking to either :a) take 2 mm off the block "milling" or b) find 2mm longer rods or c) buy another set of pistons.

P.S: i bought h=the pistons from ebay from a gay who had them made special for him. I'm attaching photos for every thing.

What do you guys think

Thx in advance for all your help
</TD></TR></TABLE>

and yeah, maybe you can resize your pics a bit 'cause their too large(thank God I have a 21" screen)

 

hmmm, what's is PDH?? & Yeah i ment 5.630 "stock h22 rods", here are some more photos:

 

Ok your pistons or rods won't work your choice to change.The person you bought them from had either longer rods or more stroke to be able to use those pistons.

Sounds like you bought alot from ebay like the DH parts.One thing to remember when you just throw a bunch of parts at an engine the result is usually not what you expected.

You should ask a reputable engine builder in Kuwait or elsewhere that could help point you to a combination of parts that are known to make power together.
Hope this helps.

 

Who did the extra shiny head?

 

wouldnt milling 2mm off the block.. take too damn close.. or take away a bit of material on the waterpump mating surface?

not that familiar with H blocks as ive none of them in the garage.. but just a thought

CC lol ur head aint Bling like that huh!

 

You can take .080 off the block, we have done that building fake B16B;s with Eagle rods. BUT, you will have to check/ modify the belt tennsioner, Check the head bolt/ stud for clamping, have someone with real cam checking tools, set your cam timing. And a few other things, deck the water pump, etc. Not a big deal, unless you have problems, then you are stuck with a CUSTOM set-up.
I would probably buy new pistoms, cheaper in the long run.

 

thats indeed nice to know donF ! thank you..

i was asuming the waterpumps mating surface could need care,

an assumption made by me viewing the block, no real test or trials done..

thanks for that heads up!

 

Fkned,

Yor right about expecting complications when i try to order everything & then just throw it in. I hope i overcome this one safely & get away with, but hey, WHAT''S LIFE WITHOUT RISKS?

 

FV-QR,

A regular workshop here in Kuwait , they did the milling as well as the P&P job

 

Donf,

Which will be better for the engine performance? taking the 2mm off the block "Much more cost effective" or buying longer arms, IMO "I hope it's not a wild one" i think it's just going to be the same but the only thing is that like u said "I'll be stuck with my custom block 2mm less than the usual deck height", but PERFORMANCE WISE -if the cam timing is properly set- which solution would be better?

& what do u all thik of the P&P job? is considered to be a good or a jagged one?

 

Anybody think of the fact that maybe the person that had those pistons made thought of using a H23 crank, and using the H22 rods to make for a better rod stroke ratio, and simply moving the wristpin up on the pistons. And since your using a H22 crank now it does not have the extra stroke to move the piston up the rest of the way.

Just a thought.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lude@Heart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anybody think of the fact that maybe the person that had those pistons made thought of using a H23 crank, and using the H22 rods to make for a better rod stroke ratio, and simply moving the wristpin up on the pistons. And since your using a H22 crank now it does not have the extra stroke to move the piston up the rest of the way.

Just a thought.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that was the first thing that popped into my head too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lude@Heart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anybody think of the fact that maybe the person that had those pistons made thought of using a H23 crank, and using the H22 rods to make for a better rod stroke ratio, and simply moving the wristpin up on the pistons. And since your using a H22 crank now it does not have the extra stroke to move the piston up the rest of the way.

Just a thought.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, he did say in the hole 2.5mm....

H22: 90mm stroke
H23: 95mm stroke

that would put it at the right deck height...

So u can go 2 ways with this
1) H22 with higher rod ratio (new longer rods)
2) H23 (more displacement) with a better R/S than a standard h23

I'd personally go for #2...unless its a circuit motor that will see lots of High RPM

 

mmm id love those pistons right now.

Trade for Wiseco 89mm 6.5cc dome lol

 

lol