Motor will be used for Autox/Roadcourse duty.

Full motor = B18C

Head = No Port and Polish, however aftermarket valvetrain and cams

Block = Stupid to spend the 1k on sleeving to 2.0L? C/R of pistons either way would be 11.5:1

From people who have seen dyno sheets of similar setups, and general experience with 2.0L's, is it a waste to go 2.0L without a ported and polished head? I know it will make some power over the 1.8 setup, the key is, $1000 worth?

 

depends on the person. increasing displacement always brings up power. porting the head is even more money. like always, the more you spend, the more you get.

 

The only thing I would suggest is open up the chamber to match the bore. You can gain a little bit of flow that way also. (opening up the chambers should be cheap too as it is easy to do.)

 

Depends who you ask...
Is 20-30 HP worth a $1000 to you?
Do you want to extract the full potential of your engine?
Would I spend a grand for 20-30 hp? Sure if I had the extra money!
You can always upgrade later down the road!

 

Everyone is talking horsepower when the OP states that the motor is used for auto-x/road course, which to me - screams torque. Would you use a high-revving B16 for an auto x?

My point is, in my own opinion, for your particular application I would go displacement. Sleeve the block, dig around for an 89 crank and re-assemble. You will appreciate your "curve" a helluva lot more than how your motor is peaking at 9k.

A few other things will dictate your powerband..

-intake length
-IM
-header
-exhaust
-transmission/gearing

List those, also what you are using for tuning.

 

ahhh very true...
I assume this is a racecar so I say fuggit and go 92 or 95 on the stroke!
Imagine all that Tq and midrange

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Everyone is talking horsepower when the OP states that the motor is used for auto-x/road course, which to me - screams torque. Would you use a high-revving B16 for an auto x?

My point is, in my own opinion, for your particular application I would go displacement. Sleeve the block, dig around for an 89 crank and re-assemble. You will appreciate your "curve" a helluva lot more than how your motor is peaking at 9k.

A few other things will dictate your powerband..

-intake length - shortram to filtered velocity stack
-IM - s2 pro series
-header - to be determined
-exhaust - 2.25 w/carsound cat
-transmission/gearing - to be determined

List those, also what you are using for tuning. - will be using CROME</TD></TR></TABLE>

Filled in what I could, I am a long way from finishing this project, but I am always on the lookout for parts so when I see local things I could use, I pick them up. I have contemplated running LS 89mil crank and rods. Probably paired with a set of CP 11.5:1 c/r pistons, unless I have the guts to go with a comparable cast set. I am an easy going person, but a worry wart when it comes to engine catastrophe

Besides an LS crank and LS rods(probably something affordable such as Eagle), is there anything else needed to make that combination work in the GSR block? I know this should give a kick in the up direction for TQ numbers compared to the stock GSR crank/rods, but need to know whether its plug and play, or a little more of a process to have it work as it should. If it is not a PITA, I would most likely want to run LS crank/LS rods whether it stays 1.8 or 2.0. Edit** I remember reading about issues with the bearings and oil squirters, as even though both are b series theres some change that one has that the other doesn't. Possibly the hole in the bearings etc.. Not sure 100%

Thank you so far for all your responses :0)


Modified by OMG THE GOGGLES at 1:51 AM 9/19/2008

 

It is a "plug and play" application, but I am not 100% sure about the oil squirters. I do beleive you need to remove them, many other people on the board can confirm/correct me. Typically a longer intake arm will increase torque, but not carrry power up high. Key word is typically. Maybe a 3" AEM CA would be a good intake for you. Good IM. Header wise, obviously I am a fan of SMSP for 1.8's and above. If you don't wanna spend 1k for his power/quality, keep in mind he also sells coated manifolds for cheaper. If you want an even lesser of a price tag, Spoolin is making Toda copies....but the SMS will make more for your motor. Get at least a 2.5" exhaust, please. Gear box - any vtec tranny with a 4.9 FD will be great. Obviously if you do an R you will have the added LSD. Beer.....beer.

 

the stock head flows good. not that it cant be improved but most street cars wont use the full potential of the stock head. after all the B motors have the highest or one of the highest specific outputs of any production motor for a car. they cant be that bad. A b20 should have no problem making 220+ on a stock head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omniman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> A b20 should have no problem making 220+ on a stock head.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You've proven it a time or two^^.

 

With a LS crank, you can remove/plug the holes or bend the oil squirters out of the way.