I searched but could not find any helpful info i know sk2 recomends to use there valve train but can i use my buddyclub dual valve springs and crower retainers with my sk2 pro1 cams i dont really have $ to take the head off to use there valve train has anyone used a diffrent valvetrain with sk2 pro1's? thanks.

 

Yes pro 1s you can get away with it. Pro 2s and 3s require pro VT.

 

Thanks, anymore input guys! im getting them installed right now but now im not sure if my vt is o.k its fine wit the the bc3+ but the pro1'3 are more agressive.

 

anyone else?

 

I cant get no info from sk2 does anyone know if this will be fine.

 

The pro1's are no more aggressive then the s2s2's tuner series, just with bigger primaries. You will be fine with those springs, but you wont handle anymore lift or duration then what the pro1's have.

 

"but you wont handle anymore lift or duration then what the pro1's have."

Im sorry but i dont understand what your saying here.

 

Ow do you mean i wont be able to handle anymore of an agressive cam than the pro1's with my springs? also i have a loud noise or valve tick a bit more louder than before is this becouse of the pro1's im sure my mech. did the valve lash correct but is this normal my bc3+ wasnt this loud! thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The pro1's are no more aggressive then the s2s2's tuner series, just with bigger primaries.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you making this comment after observing "advretised measurements" or actual degreed measurements? Where does ramp rate come in to play?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2LEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes pro 1s you can get away with it. Pro 2s and 3s require pro VT.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess if he drops a valve, we all know who he's coming to for answers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are you making this comment after observing "advretised measurements" or actual degreed measurements? Where does ramp rate come in to play?

I guess if he drops a valve, we all know who he's coming to for answers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Based on the advertised specs he should be very well within range.
The springs he is using is what buddy club recommends for they're spec 4/5 cams.
Spec 4

1mm OPEN 1mm OPEN
INLET 37° BTDC 49° ABDC 306° 12.3mm 0.007
1mm OPEN 1mm OPEN
EXHAUST 61° BBDC 21° ATDC 302° 11.8mm 0.008

Spec5

TIMING DURATION VALVE LIFT VALVE CLEARANCE
1mm OPEN 1mm OPEN
INLET 35° BTDC 52° ABDC 312° 12.8mm 0.007
1mm OPEN 1mm OPEN
EXHAUST 62° BBDC 32° ATDC 306° 11.8mm 0.008

Now based on those "advertised" lobes this is vs the pro1's advertised lobes.
Intake Lift Adv. Dur.@.004" @.050"

Primary .375" 264° 204°
VTEC .500" 296° 255°
Secondary .405" 267° 213°

Exhaust Lift Adv. Dur.@004" @.050"

Primary .374" 271° 214°
VTEC .469" 298° 255°
Secondary .374" 271° 213°

Come on clean rice, you know me better then that bro :-\


Modified by IntegraType-R at 10:07 PM 9/17/2008


As far as Crower goes? I LOVE they're valvetrain and infact, the valvetrain i have is they're full race valvetrain, with their Ti-retainers, which has been threw 6sets of cams and i'm currently running the s2s2's on this valvetrain, and plan on going to the pro2's as well which are more then supported.
The Retainers are strong as well.
I wouldn't recommend going above pro1 however..Althought these springs could probably handle the pro2's.


Modified by IntegraType-R at 10:08 PM 9/17/2008

 

You are the man thanks alot IntegraType-R, i am relieved to know im o.k! now i got a set of brand new sk2 springs and retainers to sell also is the slightly louder valve ticking or sound coming from the bigger lobes? or should it be just as quiet as my bc3+ cams were at idle?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I guess if he drops a valve, we all know who he's coming to for answers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ya, I try not to say stuff like that, but I'm pretty sure he would be ok with that VT, even if he isn't I'm "some guy on the internt"... sue me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I guess if he drops a valve, we all know who he's coming to for answers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wunfstgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> You are the man thanks alot IntegraType-R, i am relieved to know im o.k! now i got a set of brand new sk2 springs and retainers to sell also is the slightly louder valve ticking or sound coming from the bigger lobes? or should it be just as quiet as my bc3+ cams were at idle?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Valvetrain noises are/could be alot of things.. valvelash too loose or too tight, bigger cams slapping the pads of the rocker arms.. i mean the list is endless i'd suggest narrowing down where its coming from, or around which cyl first.

 

**** i got back from churches yesterday everything was good i dynoed at 216hp and 150ft tq but today i was driving around and everything was good but later on the way to work my car shuts off and i poped it back on but then had a slight loud valve tick when i got to work so then i drove home and on the way the knocking got loud when i exited, its so bad and loud i diddnt want to rev it over 1500rpm its so loud it sounds like my cam lobe is slaping hard on the rocker arm or its broken but i took off the vc and nothing looks broken visually but i dont know what to do could it be the valve lash is loose and is off now. i dont have the specs for the pro1s the mechs. diddnt give it back. thanks

 

http://www.skunk2.com/installation/305-05-5200.pdf

Tappet Clearance:
Intake: 0.007” (cold)
Exhaust: 0.008” (cold)

That is on an h series

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wunfstgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> **** i got back from churches yesterday everything was good i dynoed at 216hp and 150ft tq but today i was driving around and everything was good but later on the way to work my car shuts off and i poped it back on but then had a slight loud valve tick when i got to work so then i drove home and on the way the knocking got loud when i exited, its so bad and loud i diddnt want to rev it over 1500rpm its so loud it sounds like my cam lobe is slaping hard on the rocker arm or its broken but i took off the vc and nothing looks broken visually but i dont know what to do could it be the valve lash is loose and is off now. i dont have the specs for the pro1s the mechs. diddnt give it back. thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like your spun a bearing or have a huge rod knock.. like is a metel on metel?
noise would be more helpful...
remove your valvecover.. and check each valve/rocker arm 1 by 1.. lifting them up and trying ot move them, they should have a slight movement but not alot..

216whp thats a good amount of power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2LEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ya, I try not to say stuff like that, but I'm pretty sure he would be ok with that VT, even if he isn't I'm "some guy on the internt"... sue me. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I never saw this comment until just now..
Dont say that.. Seriously.

 

It sounds real loud and it vibrates to my gas pedal i dont see how i spun a rod bearing i have acl race bearing for insurance sake but i was driving normal no high revs at all before this happened it started with a slight valve tick when i would rev up a bit but when i drove on it some more it got real loud! could i of bent a valve the car would still idle at a stop so i dont know it does sound like metal to metal to my ears it sounds like its coming from in the middle of the head im gonna try to get someone to check the valve lash if thats still on spec what could it be rod bearing burnt valve?

 

No valvetrain noise i know of, can make your gas pedel vibrated..or i ever heard of at least..
Its either a rod knock.. which it sounds like.. or your valvelash is just way too loose..
And it doesn't matter what bearings you have, you can spin them, specially if they weren't installed correctly.

 

Well the block was built about 2 years ago and has been fine since the noise started soon after the pro1 instal and dyno so im thinking its still in the head and i cant move any rocker arms only the middle ones go down just a little bit.

 

is it a quick tap, or a long knock.. need to hear it..

check your valvelash when your cars cold..

 

The sound is a quick loud tick! my friennd hasnt had time to check it for and i dont want to mess up anything more, I fear i may have snaped the nose of the cam shaft, sk2 says on the spec sheet that you may have to use a longer cam bolt if using an aftermarket cam gear i asked my mech. and he said it went in far enough to be safe, but its a aem gear and i used the stock bolt, could this be possible or would the cam cap break off? thanks for the help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wunfstgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The sound is a quick loud tick! my friennd hasnt had time to check it for and i dont want to mess up anything more, I fear i may have snaped the nose of the cam shaft, sk2 says on the spec sheet that you may have to use a longer cam bolt if using an aftermarket cam gear i asked my mech. and he said it went in far enough to be safe, but its a aem gear and i used the stock bolt, could this be possible or would the cam cap break off? thanks for the help </TD></TR></TABLE>

Loud quick tick is usually a sign of loose valvelash or possible worn rocker arms.. have your boy look at it and report back.

 

Well its gonna be a couple more days till he checks it out so i did a valve adjustment and i still have the same knock i pulled each plug 1 by 1 and the sound seams to die a bit when plug #4 is pulled and comes back louder when put back i heard this could be a sighn of a bad bottom end or something so im gonna pull the oil pan and look for metal flakes what else should I look for? also when doing the valve adjustment on the exuast valve on #1 cyllinder the flat head screw kept turning the lock bolt unlike all the rest this seemed tight and would not turn freely and was real hard for me tighten corectly i double checked the valve lash after and i got a bit loose for the .8 gap but im sur its o.k could this be stripped in any way and might have something to do with the problem? thnaks