I need to replace my driveaxles soon, because I have the dreaded clicking sound with the steering wheel turned fully left or fully right. This Honda[listed in my signature] is the first fwd vehicle I have ever owned. So, this would be my first time to attempt such a repair. It doesn't too complicated, but it certainly is important to get it done correctly. Is it as easy job to screw up and hard to get right, when its your first time doing it, or is it a cakewalk? I would prefer if no actual Honda techs/Ex-techs, or any techs at all, answer. I'd really like to hear from do it yourselfers only who have not done this job more than once. Those are the opinions I need, at least concerning the difficulty. I know that the techs are going to brag and say there is nothing to this, I've done tons of them annually. Yeah, I know but I haven't even done one - so, take me back to your first one when your boss was hovering over your shoulder and instructing your every move. I aint got no Honda master tech to guide me through this. I like to do my own work and I like the knowledge. But then there is the dreaded "Murpjy's Law," ever present, just waitin for the opportunity to f____

My understanding about this job is: Take off 36mm nut and inner hub parts -- Remove lower Ball joint on damper fork -- Slide axle out -- replace axle and put back together. Those are the simplest directions I could find But some guys talk about taking off part of the strut knuckle and tie rod end, even other parts, and they claim it is easier -- how?

Oh, and do you know of any aftermarket axles with heavy duty rubber boots like the Hondas have. I'm leaning toward the Honda rebuilt axles, they are pricey, but the warranty seems better. Opinions on Honda Remans or Aftermarket seem to be lacking any convincing information either way.


Modified by diyer at 8:14 PM 9/12/2008

 

I was able to remove the first time and install the new one in less than 1 hour.. and that's because i'm pretty calm while working on a car.
I'd say it's simple enough.... be sure to have something to pry the axle out of the tranny, because it's gets tough sometimes.. lol

 

Did you go by the procedure in Helms and remove it via the lower ball join damper fork method or some other way. lol

 

I undo both upper and lower ball joints... i just like better doint like that.
Then i remove the fork from the lower control arm, take the axle out.. put the new one in... i like to put the bolt the lower ball joint first, then go for the fork and LCA and then finally.. upper ball joint... hehe ... then... tighten the axle nut, bend the edge a lil' bit, put the wheel on... and that's it.
I don't have a helms... i had a haynes... but haynes sucks. seriously... i've heard that helms is a lot better.

 

I personally rock oem axles and just replace boots but it seems you're beyond that point. I;ve had some good luck and bad luck with aftermarket axles. If you have the cash I'd get the Honda axle.

As far as performing the job. Wheel off, axle nut, remove the bolt and nut for the strut fork and remove lower ball joint nut and it's ready to come out.

When you are working on the lower balljoint. After you loosen the nut leave it on and hit the control arm to free up the balljoint. I've seen quite a few people on this site think that hitting the balljoint is how you do it. Just a heads up.

I am a tech but speaking from some other point of view as long as you take your time, have all the proper tools you should be able to accomplish this yourself in a reasonable amount of time.

Good Luck.

By the way I can do axles in your accord in like 7 minutes

 

Diyer: Your procedure sounds like the one in the Helms manual.

I had another Honda tech tell me what you just said, that he just takes them out and cleans them and refills them with grease, and then installs new rubber boots, and he claimed that eliminated the clicking sound. So, now your the second tech telling me this. It's got me wondering. If I were to try this, I would only need to get the tool that puts the bands around the boots. Everything else I have and more.

Spoonfedcrx: "... I've seen quite a few people on this site think that hitting the balljoint is how you do it. Just a heads up ... "

Diyer: I think I know what you mean. I've had to remove tie rods and if its a good tie rod but hard to get apart then I use whatever puller works best, and if its getting replaced then I'd use a pickle fork, or impact hammer, if needed. Also, after taking out the cotter pin, I leave the castle nut on but loosen it enough, and then get the joint separated as mentioned previously, otherwise, it can pop out too violently, at least that is how I was taught to do supension related work. Is that what you mean?

Spoonfedcrx: " ... By the way I can do axles in your accord in like 7 minutes " ...Diyer: 7 minutes, OMG!

Diyer: Do you do the usual, put some PBblaster on and let it soak in before removal of any of these parts?


Modified by diyer at 7:06 PM 9/24/2008

 

If you have the right tools it's not bad. I just replaced both axles on my son's 91 Accord, just last week, and the biggest problem I had was getting the driveaxle/hub nut off. I started with a long breaker bar but the nut wouldn't break free even with me standing on the bar, had to use an impact wrench and then it came right off. Just be aware that you might require something more than a strong back and a socket wrench!

For what it's worth.

Gene from Georgia

 

I have access to air tools so I usually dont use PB blaster. You doing it in your driveway it's probably a good idea.

Your biggest problem is going to be the axle nut. Mke sure you use a small tip screwdriver and pull out the dent in the axle nut. Then I would suggest lubing it up for awhile and using a breaker bar with a piece of pipe. If it still isnt budging a little heat from a mini propane torch will help.

You really shouldn't need anything other then a nice size hammer to break a tie rod or balljoint loose, like you said a pickle fork will destroy the boot.

What i was saying with leaving the castle nut on is to prevent you from damaging threads or the balljoint itself when you are hitting the control arm, better safe then sorry.

I use a 1/2" impact gun, 17mm socket, 32mm or 36mm(dependin gon application), 17mm wrench, one decent sized pry bar, mini sledge, and a set of dikes for the cotter pins.

Good luck/

 

Remove wheel
Remove axle nut
Remove Fork
Remove castle nut from the upper balljoint
Whack someplace safe, avoiding threads using a big hammer to get the uca to pop free.
undo the 12mm(10mm?) nuts holding the breakline secure so you have some wiggle room.
Pull axle out of the hub
Using a prybar or screwdriver pop the axle from the tranny.

Reverse.

Pretty much the jist of how I do it off the top of my head. Pretty simple. First time it took me about an hour per side. On a good day now, maybe about 20-30mins.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonfedcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I have access to air tools so I usually dont use PB blaster. ... Your biggest problem is going to be the axle nut. Mke sure you use a small tip screwdriver and pull out the dent in the axle nut. Then I would suggest lubing it up for awhile and using a breaker bar with a piece of pipe. If it still isnt budging a little heat from a mini propane torch will help.Good luck/</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have various air tools. One 1/2 dirve Craftsman impact that I use the most, mainly for lugs, @ 300 ft lbs max - but I think its too weak for the axle nut. I have a 3/8 drive Snap-on MG31, but I think it is too weak also. I have the Snap-on XT7100, @ 700 ft lbs max, it should work ok? But, although I have these tool, I rarely use them, because I got in the habit early on as advised by mechanics, that impacts break bolts too easily, and I dread snapped studs worse than just about any repair job. So, I use PB ahead of time and wait a little bit. I also have a 3 ft long 3/4 drive bar with sockets and adapters up and down the wazoo, I think it should loosen up that axle nut fairly easily; and also a 36 mm Striking Wrench that can remove any bolt. But still my tools exceed my know-how and so I need to ask about what the job entailed. I wish I had a Honda tech friend in the Philadelphia area, in case I run into a problem, or who could stop by and oversee the work, just for first time jobs.

And your telling me the axle is staked.

Not knowing the design of the driveaxle, is there any bearings in the hub behind the 36 mm axle nut that needs to be adjusted or removed carefully?


Modified by diyer at 7:09 PM 9/24/2008

 

Don't worry about bearings or anything behind the nut.

Just do not underestimate the mighty axle nut.

 

Also note that depending on how bad of condition the axle is in, it may fall apart leaving an end either in the hub or the transmission. The latter happened to me and I had to use a large screwdriver to pop it out.

Might want to use the opportunity to do a tranny fluid change as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheMuffinMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Might want to use the opportunity to do a tranny fluid change as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TOAB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just do not underestimate the mighty axle nut.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Im a honda tech in the philly area. And I'm currently on disability. If I got time and you pay my gas and give me a six pack I'll stand in your driveway and supervise.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonfedcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im a honda tech in the philly area. And I'm currently on disability. If I got time and you pay my gas and give me a six pack I'll stand in your driveway and supervise.</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh.. how nice?!..hahaha... now that's fair!

 

As has been mentioned here, breaking the axel nut loose is the biggest problem. The rest is a piece of cake. Before I even bought the reman axels, I'd try to pop those nuts loose. It helps to be sure of which way to turn them, can someone refresh if these are left or right hand nuts?? You'll also need to drain the trans fluid/oil or it will pour out of the axel holes when you pop them out.

 

One other thing you might check before you replace the axles - see if you have any signs of transmission fluid leakage around the current transmission axle seals. If you do, you might as well replace them, because if they leaked before they will leak with the new axles. If they don't currently leak just be careful when you insert the new axles that you don't damage them.

For what it's worth

 

I did this on my 94. It took me a couple of hours, mostly since I was going slow and reading directions after every step. For me the hardest part was pushing the axle back in. Besides that it wasn't too bad.

I got the axle at Autozone, which was good cause the one I got went bad after a year. It had the lifetime warranty, and they didn't even ask any questions when I took it back. This one has been fine for 1 1/2 years now, and the second time it took me probably 45 minutes to do.

 

Ok, you got a deal. I'll IM you when I'm ready to do the job.


Modified by diyer at 7:27 PM 9/24/2008

 

Ok, I will. But first, where are they located? I can look in Helms in the chapter on Transmissions. Or is it just as it sounds, you look at where the axle goes into the transaxle housing, on the outside for leaks?

Is this a common wear item that causes a problem?


Modified by diyer at 7:23 PM 9/24/2008

 

I'm in Aston. According to mapquest it's only 25 min away. Just send me an IM.

 

Yep, just as it sounds! The seals are one of those, "while you're there type things" that always should be checked when you replace the axles.

I wouldn't say that this is a common wear item, but they will leak over time.

 

Aston huh, I had a friend who lived there years ago. I'm in Ardmore, actually, but close enough to Philly to say Philly. Have you ever heard of Herr Driveline in Havertown? They rebuild axles, and will either rebuild mine or sell me ones they rebuilt for $50 each [with the core trade-in]. I'm thinking that I might get mine rebuilt if mine are genuine Honda, otherwise, I will swap them out. Ironically, it was the a local Honda guy that suggested Herr to me. He didn't think a 94 Accords was worth spending $280 on for axles.

Btw, have you ever cleaned out the EGR ports under the intake manifold? Givin the history of this vehicle, I doubt it was ever done, and I'm thinking that if I don't do it now, then it might fail emissions testing, and I would then have to spend, what $180 now for the waiver? A tech over at Sussman told me that when I clean out the ports, to replace the Oring that goes into the Fuel Inj. rail, because they get hard over time and leak [I'm at 159k mileage]. Do you think that is sufficient or should I replace both Orings and both seals/cushions on the injectors. Helms shows 2 Orings and 2 seals/cushions. See, it would total 16 parts and Honda always wants a good bit of $. If it is important then I'll do it, but if its not really needed then I won't bother spending the money. The money can go for other stuff.


Modified by diyer at 3:10 PM 9/25/2008