Fully built motor is it worth it?
I am very serious about putting a motor together. After the cash starts to flow in the project will begin. Just have a couple of questions for you guys though.. is it worth it? I'm not sure how big the scene is anymore. I had a Lsvtec build that barely reach 2000 miles (done by a shop)
here is roughly what I want:
Rlz race head - B16a2
Gsr block (not sure which piston to go with yet or rods, crankshaft, sleeve?)
Rocket cams
from my guess its going to be around $5k-10k
convince me go though with this project or not..
Thank You
Modified by hawtness120 at 12:06 PM 9/12/2008
here is roughly what I want:
Rlz race head - B16a2
Gsr block (not sure which piston to go with yet or rods, crankshaft, sleeve?)
Rocket cams
from my guess its going to be around $5k-10k
convince me go though with this project or not..

Thank You
Modified by hawtness120 at 12:06 PM 9/12/2008
you are in an all motor forum full of people with built motors.....
worth lies in the hands of the owner, not the peanut gallery.
worth lies in the hands of the owner, not the peanut gallery.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nikos »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How long do you think it is going to take you to have it ready?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I want it done right so maybe a year. Forgot to mention im a student and got a part time job
the first part im saving up for is RLZ Race head because that takes the longest. what i have in mind is a serious build top to bottom.. rc's, innovative mounts, maybe TWN individual throttle bodies..
3 more post left!!
I want it done right so maybe a year. Forgot to mention im a student and got a part time job
the first part im saving up for is RLZ Race head because that takes the longest. what i have in mind is a serious build top to bottom.. rc's, innovative mounts, maybe TWN individual throttle bodies..3 more post left!!
All motor - The expensive way to go slow.
For real, I've easily spent over 4 grand on a 200 hp motor that I could have thrown 4 grand into my b16 and made 3 times the power.
Is it worth it? I guess so, I prefer all motor. There's something to be said about banging on that turbo surpra in your NA 4 cylinder Honda.
Will you spend every dollar you earn in order to see that 3 or 4 whp increase the next time you dyno? You better believe it.
For real, I've easily spent over 4 grand on a 200 hp motor that I could have thrown 4 grand into my b16 and made 3 times the power.
Is it worth it? I guess so, I prefer all motor. There's something to be said about banging on that turbo surpra in your NA 4 cylinder Honda.
Will you spend every dollar you earn in order to see that 3 or 4 whp increase the next time you dyno? You better believe it.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hawtness120 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
here is roughly what I want:
Rlz race head - B16a2
Gsr block (not sure which piston to go with yet or rods, crankshaft, sleeve?)
Rocket cams
from my guess its going to be around $5k-10k
convince me go though with this project or not..
Thank You
Modified by hawtness120 at 12:06 PM 9/12/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
First of all, you do realize that you're in the all motor forum right? You're going to get slightly biased reasons to go this route so ultimately the decision will be up to you. If your last LS/VTEC only lasted 2000 miles before it died, I'd suggest you don't take your car back to them again (assuming that they were the problem and not someone/something else).
The next thing...a RLZ race head? why? RLZ does some of the best head porting around but a race port? If your car is not strictly going to be a race car, you do not need a race port. You need to firstly decide what the intended use of the car is going to be before you can start naming a wish list of parts and asking people their opinions.
If I was going to do another all motor platform at the moment, I would go the b20 route. It's a lot less expensive than the K and still puts out good numbers. You can build a pretty stout street/strip motor with that block without breaking the bank if you know what you're doing. If you don't really know what you're doing, have someone else build it for you who does so you're not throwing your money away. They will also better advise you on the proper part selection.
Where are you located?
here is roughly what I want:
Rlz race head - B16a2
Gsr block (not sure which piston to go with yet or rods, crankshaft, sleeve?)
Rocket cams
from my guess its going to be around $5k-10k
convince me go though with this project or not..

Thank You
Modified by hawtness120 at 12:06 PM 9/12/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
First of all, you do realize that you're in the all motor forum right? You're going to get slightly biased reasons to go this route so ultimately the decision will be up to you. If your last LS/VTEC only lasted 2000 miles before it died, I'd suggest you don't take your car back to them again (assuming that they were the problem and not someone/something else).
The next thing...a RLZ race head? why? RLZ does some of the best head porting around but a race port? If your car is not strictly going to be a race car, you do not need a race port. You need to firstly decide what the intended use of the car is going to be before you can start naming a wish list of parts and asking people their opinions.
If I was going to do another all motor platform at the moment, I would go the b20 route. It's a lot less expensive than the K and still puts out good numbers. You can build a pretty stout street/strip motor with that block without breaking the bank if you know what you're doing. If you don't really know what you're doing, have someone else build it for you who does so you're not throwing your money away. They will also better advise you on the proper part selection.
Where are you located?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by unusual71 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">plus, how fast do you need the damn thing to be on the streets anyways.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it wont be daily driven i know that for sure.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2stepEK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go H2B and go alot faster than a mildly built Bseries for much less.</TD></TR></TABLE>
idk man its hard to change something you like so much.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
First of all, you do realize that you're in the all motor forum right? You're going to get slightly biased reasons to go this route so ultimately the decision will be up to you. If your last LS/VTEC only lasted 2000 miles before it died, I'd suggest you don't take your car back to them again (assuming that they were the problem and not someone/something else).
The next thing...a RLZ race head? why? RLZ does some of the best head porting around but a race port? If your car is not strictly going to be a race car, you do not need a race port. You need to firstly decide what the intended use of the car is going to be before you can start naming a wish list of parts and asking people their opinions.
If I was going to do another all motor platform at the moment, I would go the b20 route. It's a lot less expensive than the K and still puts out good numbers. You can build a pretty stout street/strip motor with that block without breaking the bank if you know what you're doing. If you don't really know what you're doing, have someone else build it for you who does so you're not throwing your money away. They will also better advise you on the proper part selection.
Where are you located?</TD></TR></TABLE>
here is what included in their package
Source: Brad
Stage 1 Street
Disassemble, clean and inspect head and all parts
Resurface head
Reshape valve seats and de shroud chamber
Bowl Port intake and exhaust ports and blend valve job into chamber
Assemble with new valve seals
RLZ Race Head
Disassemble, clean and inspect head and all parts
Resurface head
Machine valve seats Hi Flow race specs
Intake and exhaust ports are reshaped
Chambers reshaped for Turbo or NA
Assemble with new valve seals
actually a B20 doesnt sound too bad right now because honestly my knowledge on this isn't that great. My goal is 12-11sec in a eg chassis. I am in the bay area but i get my stuff mostly in Sacramento (have sibling down there) Thanks for the reply guys
it wont be daily driven i know that for sure.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2stepEK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go H2B and go alot faster than a mildly built Bseries for much less.</TD></TR></TABLE>
idk man its hard to change something you like so much.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
First of all, you do realize that you're in the all motor forum right? You're going to get slightly biased reasons to go this route so ultimately the decision will be up to you. If your last LS/VTEC only lasted 2000 miles before it died, I'd suggest you don't take your car back to them again (assuming that they were the problem and not someone/something else).
The next thing...a RLZ race head? why? RLZ does some of the best head porting around but a race port? If your car is not strictly going to be a race car, you do not need a race port. You need to firstly decide what the intended use of the car is going to be before you can start naming a wish list of parts and asking people their opinions.
If I was going to do another all motor platform at the moment, I would go the b20 route. It's a lot less expensive than the K and still puts out good numbers. You can build a pretty stout street/strip motor with that block without breaking the bank if you know what you're doing. If you don't really know what you're doing, have someone else build it for you who does so you're not throwing your money away. They will also better advise you on the proper part selection.
Where are you located?</TD></TR></TABLE>
here is what included in their package
Source: Brad
Stage 1 Street
Disassemble, clean and inspect head and all parts
Resurface head
Reshape valve seats and de shroud chamber
Bowl Port intake and exhaust ports and blend valve job into chamber
Assemble with new valve seals
RLZ Race Head
Disassemble, clean and inspect head and all parts
Resurface head
Machine valve seats Hi Flow race specs
Intake and exhaust ports are reshaped
Chambers reshaped for Turbo or NA
Assemble with new valve seals
actually a B20 doesnt sound too bad right now because honestly my knowledge on this isn't that great. My goal is 12-11sec in a eg chassis. I am in the bay area but i get my stuff mostly in Sacramento (have sibling down there) Thanks for the reply guys
if you're aiming for 11s design a turbo build. if you can fund it, i would start the whole thing on a dart block. far more reliable than any honda block; and designed with the larger displacement b20 design. people may mention it's possible to do 11's fairly cheap. maybe so but they also don't like to talk about how long the engine lives. good parts that hold up to years of track racing cost coin.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by idrivesideways »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you're aiming for 11s design a turbo build. if you can fund it, i would start the whole thing on a dart block. far more reliable than any honda block; and designed with the larger displacement b20 design. people may mention it's possible to do 11's fairly cheap. maybe so but they also don't like to talk about how long the engine lives. good parts that hold up to years of track racing cost coin. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont kno brah i like the sound of an N/A port head.
anyways i just found this thread https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2386748 (k24a w/ stock internal) this guy make it look easy gettin into 11's. Since i have a lot of time i will add this to one of my options as well. but i still want a ported head
i dont kno brah i like the sound of an N/A port head.
anyways i just found this thread https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2386748 (k24a w/ stock internal) this guy make it look easy gettin into 11's. Since i have a lot of time i will add this to one of my options as well. but i still want a ported head
if you put a big enough motor in a light enough car all sorts of things become possible. everyone down at my local track is turbo'd that has cracked 11's or faster on a honda platform. cost could be a big part of this. i have watched 12 second crx's all motor that didn't look too over the top. i could see a gutted crx with a 2.2 stroker having a shot at it. rpms would have to be up there. before i even attempted anything like this i would be talking to those who have actually done it and learn all about what did and didn't work.
You're in school and have a part time job, yet it isn't going to be daily driven? Doesn't seem practical.
Just keep it simple until you're done with school and have money to spend.
Just keep it simple until you're done with school and have money to spend.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by idrivesideways »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">before i even attempted anything like this i would be talking to those who have actually done it and learn all about what did and didn't work. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Excellent advice!
Excellent advice!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2LEM1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All motor - The expensive way to go slow.
For real, I've easily spent over 4 grand on a 200 hp motor that I could have thrown 4 grand into my b16 and made 3 times the power.
Is it worth it? I guess so, I prefer all motor. There's something to be said about banging on that turbo surpra in your NA 4 cylinder Honda.
Will you spend every dollar you earn in order to see that 3 or 4 whp increase the next time you dyno? You better believe it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly.
i get asked almost daily why i won't turbo my car.. they just won't understand.
For real, I've easily spent over 4 grand on a 200 hp motor that I could have thrown 4 grand into my b16 and made 3 times the power.
Is it worth it? I guess so, I prefer all motor. There's something to be said about banging on that turbo surpra in your NA 4 cylinder Honda.
Will you spend every dollar you earn in order to see that 3 or 4 whp increase the next time you dyno? You better believe it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly.
i get asked almost daily why i won't turbo my car.. they just won't understand.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by idrivesideways »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL at least i have a reason for doing an all motor build. reliability and MPG. some of you guys are purists
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Turbo builds can be reliable also, even on a stock block, so long as you don't try to push 23842904832.1 hp out of it.
But to the OP, if you're looking to spend $5k-10k on a built engine.... Why not just do a K20 swap? I'm not saying that to jump on the bandwagon, but the cost should be around the range you're looking to spend for about 220hp bone stock. Just my 2 cents.
-Adam
Modified by Adambomb at 4:39 AM 9/16/2008
Modified by Adambomb at 4:39 AM 9/16/2008
</TD></TR></TABLE>Turbo builds can be reliable also, even on a stock block, so long as you don't try to push 23842904832.1 hp out of it.

But to the OP, if you're looking to spend $5k-10k on a built engine.... Why not just do a K20 swap? I'm not saying that to jump on the bandwagon, but the cost should be around the range you're looking to spend for about 220hp bone stock. Just my 2 cents.
-Adam
Modified by Adambomb at 4:39 AM 9/16/2008
Modified by Adambomb at 4:39 AM 9/16/2008
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