91 civic hatch.

4ga. power cable
100amp fuse
jvc kd-sh909 head unit
ppi pc2300 powerclass
planet audio vector D running at 4 ohms
2 - eclipse 12" in eclipse oem box at 4 ohms
1 farad capacitor
U.S. Amps crossover US-X2

1. With the rca wires run from subwoofer output on head unit to the amp did not work. Moved them over to the head units rear set of rca output and they work. What's up with that?

2. I'm trying to decide what speakers to get. Gonna use the ppi and it is 2 x 75 @ 4ohms / 2 x 110 @ 3 ohms / 2 x 150 @ 2 ohms. And the next amp I get will be about the same. What I am thinking is a pair of midbass for the back to cover sounds from 60Hz to 500Hz to reinforce higher bass notes than the subs do(should I use the crossover for this?). Then use a set up for the front to cover 80Hz and up for clarity of vocals. I have never set up a system in such a way and would like some advice. Any opinions or other recommendations.

3. I'm hoping to build some sort of cavity to encase the exposed backside speakers in the doors. Any advice on how to mount them and build the cavity?


That's all for now but maybe more to come. Keeping on topic and accuracy are appreciated. Thanks


Modified by schmiddr2 at 11:08 AM 9/13/2008

 

UPDATED the thread. Need some help here.

 

1) did you check to make sure the sub output was on or turned on in ur headunit? Is the headunit new or used?

2) what is your budget for speakers? I recommend pioneer prs720, they're a nice set for a decent price. As for the rear doors, u could look for a used set of components since you would need a crossover to block out the upper frequencies. But you should be fine with just a nice front stage, so u dont need rear speakers, but i recomend spending some time and deadening everything properly before you spend anymore money buying speakers, install is more important than the amount of speakers people have. In my old car, i ran just front speakers and people in the back never noticed a lack of volume.

3) Are you looking for some kind of water protection? For that, you could get tupperware, cut it in half, and glue or screw it behind the speaker, this protecting the speaker for water.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AdvanceSpeedShop.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1) did you check to make sure the sub output was on or turned on in ur headunit? Is the headunit new or used?

2) what is your budget for speakers? I recommend pioneer prs720, they're a nice set for a decent price. As for the rear doors, u could look for a used set of components since you would need a crossover to block out the upper frequencies. But you should be fine with just a nice front stage, so u dont need rear speakers, but i recomend spending some time and deadening everything properly before you spend anymore money buying speakers, install is more important than the amount of speakers people have. In my old car, i ran just front speakers and people in the back never noticed a lack of volume.

3) Are you looking for some kind of water protection? For that, you could get tupperware, cut it in half, and glue or screw it behind the speaker, this protecting the speaker for water.</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. It's used. I had it in my old car and when I took it out the subwoofer pre-outs worked fine. The setting it set for all pre-outs to be on.

2. It's a hatchback. There are speakers in the front doors and speakers facing up behind the rear seats. What I'm going for is a system that plays a smooth flat tone across the frequencies. I listen to rock a lot and I've noticed a lot of sound is not reproduced in normal aftermarket stereo setups. I have the amps and the crossover to setup a system to cover a lot of those ranges. I just need advice on how to do it the best way with what I have. For speakers I will spend $200 or so. Maybe more. Really hoped to find a good used set but it's proving difficult. Also I am having a tough time deciding if it is a midbass woofer that I need to do what I'm talking about here.

3. Yes the tupperware idea. And does anyone have advice for using sound deadening on the doors? I was thinking that I would enclose the front speaker all together which would tune them higher and maybe make them perform better. And have the midbass woofers in the back cover from the top of the sub frequencies to the bottom of the front speaker frequencies with some overlap.

Sorry for the long story

 

i recommend just using the tupperware for water protection, in terms of deadening, go to raamaudio.com that place has one of the best bang for buck deadener. You're going to want to seal off the door, so all the access holes,cover em up. It will greatly help your desire for midbass. With this, you wont need the back speakers to draw the sound stage back. Also for used, check out caraudio.com or diymobleaudio.com those sites have good for sale sections for speakers, i recommend diymobleaudio though, just from personal experience.

as for the sub output... check to see if there's a signal coming out of it. or check the settings on the amp to make sure everything is right, like the crossover setting on the amp, etc.

 

As mentioned, make sure sub output is on, [if it has an on/off feature].

The Eclipse SP6510 would work very well up front with that amp.

Do not enclose the back of the door speakers, water caps are avalable or, as mentioned, make your own out of Tupperware.

You should be able to use them in the rear also, with the same model amp, just remove the tweeters wire the speakers is series and bridge the amp into mono for a mono rear fill.

I would use the 4ga for the sub amp, and run an 8ga-6ga for the the two PPI amps. 94

 

Thanks for the advice both of you. So, the solution you both seem to be coming up with is just use component speakers sealed properly in the door and hatch without using the us amp crossover. This should improve the midbass to a decent level?

What setting do I use on my volt meter to see if the sub pre-outs are sending out a signal? Their 4v pre-outs so should it be 4volts?

With bridging the rear channels, the amp is supplying (1 x 300watts RMS), so which speakers would work best in rear fill? If I do this is it going to drown out the front speakers? Would there be a good rear fill speaker for rock specifically?

 

Ideally you have an amp with HP and LP, [high-pass and low-pass] x-overs, set to high-pass for the front speakers and adjust x-over point as low as the speakers can handle, for the rear speakers it will depend on the amp, if amp has a low-pass x-over point that can be set around 4000Hz-5000Hz, use it, if not, set to high-pass as low as possible, with the tweeters removed it will be OK.
When wired in series the impedance will be 8 ohms, amps output will be 1x150W RMS and very linear, [clean and tight] output can be controled with the amps gain control, if set up properly you should not even hear the rear speakers.

If the amp works when RCAs are plugged into the rear outputs and not the sub output then the sub output is not working, you will not need to test it.

Sub volume... http://resources.jvc.com/Resou...n.pdf page 27. 94

 

Very good. I can see how that all would work. Would it not be useful to get 2 - 8 ohm rear speakers and wire them parallel to get a 4 ohm amp load? Just wondering. Those sp6510 look good. But for the rear fill seems I could get more performance out of the amp with higher power speakers.

You probably right on the sub pre-outs. I thought it might be the amp because I just got it but it seems to be fine. There is a setting to turn off the front/rear pre-outs but not sub; only a separate volume control.

BTW: my short review of the planet audio vector D amp - it's killing the 2 eclipse 12's that are rated at 400w RMS at 4 ohms for the pair. In a good way. Gain is about 3/4 the way up and it's starting to get to the peak power of the subs. It is definitely producing the rated power and more.

 

Rear fill is just that, fill you should not be able to hear them, if you can it will interfere with staging and imaging, it is the same reason you do not want tweeters behind you, [high frequencies are very directional].
Keep in mind stereo means 2, two channels a left and a right, rear speakers are not needed at all, although in a car a rear mono fill, [if done properly] can help imaging by helping to eliminate a phenomenon known as "left/right bias" the perception that the sound is comming from the speakers, instead of in front of you.

If there is no output from the sub preamp outputs even with the sub volume turned up then the sub outputs are "blown" most common cause is the amps ground was bad, [or disconnected] when system was on, the amp would then get it's ground through the RCAs, signal return, [ground] that would be more current then the signal return trace on the HUs circuit board can handle and the trace will blow like a fuse, it can be repaired.

What are the model number of the Eclipse subs and the P/A amp? 94