Hi all,

Just about to pick up a Mugen N1 ECU for the dc2, but the ECU that i came across have this set of part number

37820 - XH4 - 0000 <U>B4</U>

From doing search on the internet, the ECU SHOULD have this number below
37820 - XH4 - 0000 <U>B2</U>






Can someone please confirm if the B4 will work or what exactly is the difference

Thanks in advance

 

Mine says "B2" as well. Could be the difference of OBD2A and OBD2B....

 

Is there a significant change from stock ECU to the Mugen N1 ECU...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vshiznet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there a significant change from stock ECU to the Mugen N1 ECU...</TD></TR></TABLE>Yes. Higher redline (9100) and lower Vtac (4700) engagement. You need minimum better valve springs to handle the higher redline.


Modified by The Dude at 6:52 AM 9/10/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.OB*GYN_Rhett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mine says "B2" as well. Could be the difference of OBD2A and OBD2B....</TD></TR></TABLE>


To add to what the Dude said, it also provides a much more linear powerband across its range than stock.

 

isnt there some hp gains with it also? ive always wanted one of these ecu's
i definatly know it deletes your ac

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugenr#1011 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">isnt there some hp gains with it also? ive always wanted one of these ecu's
i definatly know it deletes your ac</TD></TR></TABLE>

it will put a lot of timing in and fuel as well. youll need an afc to tune with most likely...trust me i had one

you CAN have ac with it...but the ecu definitely does not like it.

its a great piece if you collect mugen but for useage a tuneable ecu will blow it out of the water

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by get RIGHT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


To add to what the Dude said, it also provides a much more linear powerband across its range than stock. </TD></TR></TABLE>
do you have any dyno graphs showing this?<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Casey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it will put a lot of timing in and fuel as well. youll need an afc to tune with most likely...trust me i had one

you CAN have ac with it...but the ecu definitely does not like it.

its a great piece if you collect mugen but for useage a tuneable ecu will blow it out of the water</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2......sounds like a waste of money to me

 

casey
yeah i remember when you had it it definatly will use more fuel.
i forgot you can run the ac with it but it doesnt like it like you said above
agreed a tunable ecu will work better for many uses over a programmed one

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Casey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it will put a lot of timing in and fuel as well. youll need an afc to tune with most likely...trust me i had one
</TD></TR></TABLE>
RLY? I have talked to many owners and this is the first time I have ever heard of a "need" for this. Why did you decide that you needed to do this?
I would also agree that a tuneable ECU would give you more options. I think that would go without saying.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by red_crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
do you have any dyno graphs showing this?

x2......sounds like a waste of money to me</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dont. Just plenty of owner testimonials. It sounds like you have your own bias though regardless of what a silly dyno chart might say.

 

its not a necessity. it will get the most gains for sure. i remember from 01-02 seeing the ecu vs stock on bolt on itrs with small gains 5-7whp, but gas mileage goes to 18-22mpg from what i could remember

i had the mugen ecu with pct (ctr) pistons and a mugen headgasket (total cr around 12.9:1) back in 02. i switched to a stock ecu and picked up 8-10whp. of course i had super high compression and no setup is the exact same, and the mugen ecu was designed for 11.0:1 to 11.5:1 compression. epgonzalez made 211whp on the mugen ecu with mid 11s cr on 100 octane

 

Good stuff.

 

how much do they even go for second hand?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tartje &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much do they even go for second hand?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Around $600-700 US.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by get RIGHT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just plenty of owner testimonials. It sounds like you have your own bias though regardless of what a silly dyno chart might say. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I do, Its basically just a basemap; might as well buy a chip off ebay or download someone elses bin files... that will more than likely do the same thing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by red_crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I do, Its basically just a basemap; might as well buy a chip off ebay or download someone elses bin files... that will more than likely do the same thing. </TD></TR></TABLE>
How do you know? Got any dyno graphs showiing this?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by get RIGHT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How do you know? Got any dyno graphs showiing this?</TD></TR></TABLE>
ZZZZING!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by red_crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
do you have any dyno graphs showing this?

x2......sounds like a waste of money to me</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you know mugen, then you shopuld know that these ECU's are road/dyno tested with lots of research behind them. To say that it is worthless, is just plain ignorant...

You are right about a tuneable ECU making more power but thats only cause you can work it with your set-up. The Mugen ECU's are designed to work in junction with their other parts (exhaust, headers, gaskets, cams, etc.) to make/get the most power from the motor. When people run JUN, Spoon and Mugen together without a tuneable ECU, its clashing different tunes and really isnt doing anything but making "sloppy" power if it even makes more power at all.

so, these computers DO work, but only if you are using it right. Mugen doesnt charge a 'G' for nothing but I agree again, just get a tuneable computer because I doubt you can afford all their parts for the DC2R

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by get RIGHT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How do you know? Got any dyno graphs showiing this?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not saying that it wont make more power than on stock ecu, but every motor is different; With that being said, some can loose power or make more power. I doubt I will find any graphs of people using an ebay chip. The mugen ECU is pretty much like taking an ecu with Hondata and downloading a basemap from a car with similar mods.

edit: here is a few threads.....nothing better than an ecu that can be tuned:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1026812
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1154546
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1448549


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tnez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you know mugen, then you shopuld know that these ECU's are road/dyno tested with lots of research behind them. To say that it is worthless, is just plain ignorant...

You are right about a tuneable ECU making more power but thats only cause you can work it with your set-up. The Mugen ECU's are designed to work in junction with their other parts (exhaust, headers, gaskets, cams, etc.) to make/get the most power from the motor. When people run JUN, Spoon and Mugen together without a tuneable ECU, its clashing different tunes and really isnt doing anything but making "sloppy" power if it even makes more power at all.

so, these computers DO work, but only if you are using it right. Mugen doesnt charge a 'G' for nothing but I agree again, just get a tuneable computer because I doubt you can afford all their parts for the DC2R </TD></TR></TABLE>

That I do agree with....

 

plus the mugen ecu is also meant for road racing, and to work in conjuntion with their bolt ons. ive been told by scott at king the 9100 rpm redline is to""stretch a shift in low speed corners"" to help from falling out of vtec, granted in saying lower vtec crossover. i wont lie its alot of money for a programmed ecu but it serves its purpose

 

iirc the mugen ecu uses a faster processor, so it's not just a stock ecu that's been rechipped ( like the spoon ecu ). that said i have no plans of getting one

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by an2ny888 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">iirc the mugen ecu uses a faster processor, so it's not just a stock ecu that's been rechipped ( like the spoon ecu ). that said i have no plans of getting one</TD></TR></TABLE>

and mugen definatly put alot of research and development into it.
ive seen lots of older grand am itrs and world challenge itrs using these ecu's its just what you wanna do with your car