Ok so i just recently did a rear disc swap on my 89 DX crx. I used trailing arms off of a 91' crx si. so its a direct swap. i put them on and everything runs smoothly, and i used the 2040 prop valve and my MC is the stock 13/16. so should i use the si 7/8?. ive bled them mulitple times as well.

any answers would be greatly appreciated, thanks

 

its because u used the 2040. use the 40/40 prop. valve it works alot better

 

But the crx si i got everything off of, the brakes were so firm. So why would it be any differnt? the only real differnce would be the 7/8 MC compared to the 13/16 MC

 

Explain your bleeding technique. I just did a swap with no pedal issues. I did use the 40/40, but that shouldn't matter.

 

Start on the wheel farthest away from the MC. Find the nipple. attach a hose. have someone pump the brakes then hold, then turn the nut to let the fluid come out of the nipple, tighten and repeat.

Right?

 

did the same exact swap kept the mc's used the 2040 and was crappy, then used the 4040 and felt better than 2000 gsr's brakes...check brake pads and rotors???

 

well the rotors do have a bit of rust on them but thats just from sitting outside. Heres the thing. i got them off of a wrecked crx so i dont know how well they worked before. so quite possibly there might be a leak in the caliper or something?

 

does it shake and rattle wen u brake at higher speeds?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oh-yeahcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Start on the wheel farthest away from the MC. Find the nipple. attach a hose. have someone pump the brakes then hold, then turn the nut to let the fluid come out of the nipple, tighten and repeat.

Right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not always the case...on a cross system, try this: RR/LF/LR/RF. This is the listed sequence for many hondas.

 

efjones9: I have no idea because i dont plan on driving anywhere fast without any brakes haha.

nickrps: Reallly? Ok ill try that next time i bleed the brakes.

Then i also read that if you bleed your brakes over a couple days that helps too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oh-yeahcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Then i also read that if you bleed your brakes over a couple days that helps too</TD></TR></TABLE>

That might help draining oil, but not sure how that helps with brakes. You'll want to open the bleeders and close quickly to get that air out.

The quick way I do it before every track day is have a friend in the car pumping the brakes 3 times, counting out, "one, two, three." Once three is yelled out, I crack the bleeder and close quickly. Your buddy in the car will feel the pedal fall down and you will see a bit of fluid will come out. Repeat this several times then move to the next caliper in your sequence. I always know when I have a fresh bleed because I switch between ATE Super blue and ATE Typ200. Both have the same boiling points, but the blue is blue and the Typ200 is gold.

 

Oh yeah? Ok ill try that as well. hah. When you do open it how far do you open it? Because i was opening it pretty far to let the maximum amount of fluid come out. Cause i dont want no crappy fluid in my system haha

 

This is a proven one.

I bleed brakes this way and I never have any issues.

1. have person sit in car.
2. you get under first side (rr)
3. put wrench on brake nipple
4. tell person to push down the brake pedal (and hold), as they are pushing down open nipple
5. close nipple tell them to release brake pedal.
repeat steps for 4-5 times. then go to next wheel.

I've been doing it this way as long as I can think of even when I was old enough to reach the pedal and help my dad.

I've never had a spongy pedal after this.

I'd say change the prop valve and bleed brakes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rbwdriven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is a proven one.

4. tell person to push down the brake pedal (and hold), as they are pushing down open nipple

</TD></TR></TABLE>

While this has worked for you and I do not doubt it, I still suggest pumping the brakes three times

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oh-yeahcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you do open it how far do you open it? Because i was opening it pretty far to let the maximum amount of fluid come out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Open it for a second and close it right back up.

 

like stated bleed more. the prop valve will have no affect on pedal pressure I still have it and it brakes very well. what can happen though when bleeding brakes with an old master cylinder is that it gets pressed to the floor when bleeding and it hasnt gone that far in its travel in a very long time. sometimes this can cause the seal inside to tear or leak slightly and will have a bad "feel" to the brakes

 

Really? so if infact i did tear a seal, would it be recommended that i did change the MC? Thats another thing. I have no idea how i would even change out the brake booster even if i had too. The nuts to get it off are so far under the dash, and theres such a mess of wires that i wouldnt even wanna touch under there.

 

As mentioned in many other threads, rear disk conversion on the ef sucks. Money spent, time spent and no gains to be had. I regret doing mine

For the most part, the end result will give the same performance as the original drum setup if everything is done correctly, but i do laugh at the fact that back in 1990 when the new rear disk setup found on the crx si came out, it stopped 3 feet longer than the rear drum setup found on the previous 89 Si.

I throw this post up so others know that aside from the nice looks of a rear disk, the swap gains nothing, so keep that in mind before spending your money on it.

 

well heres how i aquired my rear disc swap.

One of my dads co workers daughters had 2 crx si's. One mint as the earth. The other totaled. And i had to buy both of them. I couldnt only have bought one. And i bought the DX previously. So i put the rear arms from the totaled one on the DX. But since i have the mint si i know how 4 discs feel with the exact same set up im doing now. hah

 

i always thought you start with the wheel furthest from the prop. valve... cuz that's where all the fluid gets split up. any ways, i agree with the pumping thing too.

 

Ok so i finally have time to work on my car a bit. Im going to bleed them RR, LF, LR, RF, while pumping 3 times, and opening for a second. Then if its still bad ill prob change the rear pads, cause i think those are pretty bad. But could that be a reason for mushy pedal?

 

The correct bleeding sequence is LF, RR, RF, LR.

Definitely pump the pedal a few times and have them apply steady pressure while you only open the valve for a very short amount of time.

 

So i checked the prop valve and it seemed to be leaking fluid when someone was pumping th brakes. So i tightened all the brake lines and no more drippage. Then i re bled the brakes, and still mushy, dont start engauging until close to the floor, brakes. Then i decided to check the back pads and they seem to be fine...So could it be the MC and/or the Booster?

 

I say try the 7/8 MC.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Red_ED8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I say try the 7/8 MC.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah i think your right. Last real option. But how would i go about doing this since the nuts to get to it are impossible to get to, pretty much?

 

I just did a rear disc swap as well, and yes like that guy said it is kinda pointless, except for looks.

When I did my swap, my MC started to leak. I have no idea why but just check it out. The MC is just right below the brake fluid reservoir, no removing nuts required. just run your hand underneath the MC and feel for fluid. you can also just look at the BrakeBooster and if the paint is gone on it, that means that brake fluid has been there and taken the paint off.

if you find that there is a leak from the MC then there are some seals that you might have broken while bleeding. there is also a stop bolt on the drivers side of the MC that might need to be tightened.
on mine it needed to be tightened with an allen key. that fixed everything, no more probs.
hope this helps