1st went to the dyno and best run pulled 176.2 hp and 122.1 tq

setup included GSR MOTOR
Jun3's and valve train
Topspeed ported head intake manifold and tb
wiseco rollrave 12.5:1 pisons and eagle rods
icebox, rsr exhast, jdm dc header carsound cat
Vafc, 270 rc intectors, and Jun Ecu AEM FPR
JDM itr tranny, ACT Clutch, and toda flywheel,

2nd I went to the track and only got to run once (1st time at the track) and pulled
14.997 @ 93.90

I need help gettin this lazy car to move

 

176 whp is good for a 14.2-14.3 at moderate temps with a USDM tranny. It was your first time. Bet your 60's times were really high.

Some of your mods seems weird to me but I could be wrong. They are more extreme than I have looked into.

JDM DC header after all that money?
VAFC ontop of a JUN ECU? Why not sell both and get a stand alone (Hondata, Power FC, AEM)

 

Thats kinda low (hp) with all the work you have in that motor. Have you gotten a good tuner to work with your car yet???

 

I bought the vafc 6 before the JUN ECU and as for the header .... well I got that last summer when all the hype began about 2.5 inch collectors (which by the way is up for sale). Nobody in CT does hondata or power fc tuning only DFI

 

Damn, I thought that I was the only one in need of tuning. I put down 180 and 126 in 94 F weather with the JUN 3's, JUN ported head, and 12.1:1 compression. I need tuning so badly its unreal.

I made my appt with the Hondata tuner in Ottawa, its a four hour drive, and $160/hour, so it better be worth it

I went to the track and ran a 15.1 @94.6 with a 2.4 sec 60', but that is because my tranny is grinding at redline in every gear. I gotta shift at 8, or it just won't go into gear. I drop outta VTEC at every shift. Sucks to be me, but the crate JDM ITR tranny is on its way

Dyno results will be posted after August 2,


[Modified by canuck-mx6, 3:49 PM 7/25/2002]

 

my b16 ownz y0u.....

if DFI is in your budget, and tuners in your area are familiar with it, go for it!
Its not gay-dee-m, but in my opinion, with proper tuning one of the most complete units out there

 

Thats pretty bad...I'm close to the same numbers with basic bolt ons. 174whp and 123lb/tq. Best time I've ran is a 14.6. You should be close if not above the 200whp range with all you have done. Looks like you need some serious tuning. Good Luck

 

What's your track elevation?

 

Do you have a baseline run prior to the Jun install? That is low for your setup. Show us the dyno graph.

CB


[Modified by Cheap Bastard, 10:13 AM 7/25/2002]

 

[IMG][/IMG]

Baseline was 174.0 ingnition timing slightly retarded (pinging) 103 octane cam gears 0,0 and vafc untouched

 

vtec x over set a 5600 that was the last run dynoed in fourth




[Modified by alexboy, 1:46 PM 7/25/2002]

 

Road trip!!! Hondata and larger injectors should net you over 200whp and over 140ft lbs... the Jun ECU is probably killing you with your setup... timing maps! The price of the Jun ECU and VAFC would have gone a long way to paying for your Hondata/injectors/tunnig/and maybe a little gas money...

 

somethings not right, 172whp with all that work is way to low. my old car with a gsr swap in it pulled 167whp. the only mods were skunk2 IM and ECU, dc header and exhaust. i was even using the stock airbox.

 

 

Who the hell tuned that thing helen keller?

Is it a real JUN ecu or did you buy a
cheater program? You dont need bigger injectors either
.....270cc's are fine i think....MAYBE...and i stress maybe
....310cc's....? Lose the vafc if it is a real jun ecu....it is
probably hurting more then good. ....dont knock that
header it still is one of the best street headers around
....only things better imho are the toda (1000) and smsp
(god knows).....keep it...its fine.....also...next time you
dyno try taking you exaust off before and after.....see
how big of a difference there is.....with cams those size
you need as much are to get out as possible.....
My friends CRX (b20vtec.com) has a thermal 3"
exaust on his car and he still gained power taking
it off......just goes to show how much air the JUNs
and high CR move......

our car went 12.0 on that header and those 270 injectors
......they are fine like i said......jeremy allen (inlinepro.com)
goes 11.40's on a jdm header.......its fine... dont give up
just tune it......and you dont need a standalone either.....
either rechip your ecu with a different program or work
with what you have...hondata isnt needed for what you are running.


[Modified by simple4012, 7:23 PM 7/25/2002]

 

Disconnect the fuel controller from the vafc. Something is definitley wrong with either the ECU has the wrong map or the VAFC is messing it up.

 

It has to be ECU problems. I ran a faster time with just my fields sfc-vtec and everything else stock. BTW the fields controller is up for sale.


[Modified by DeeSeeToo, 11:29 AM 7/25/2002]

 

i know a couple of people who have had problems with the vafc and JUN ECU (if its the real ECU. Also are you sure that everything is working properly, have you done a compression test to make sure your compression numbers are good. Also check into a test pipe, even high flow cats are no good for a high compression/JUN III setup


[Modified by SuperTech, 8:39 PM 7/25/2002]

 

I've seen dyno's with ITR cams and bolt ons that were better,my guess,and I'm not a mechanic it needs tuning,all the mods aren't worth chit if there not setup right.And the other guy with skunk2 's is making 180whp.

 

It is the real deal JUN ecu. I still think that I'd go standalone with that type of work done. There are way to many variables at this point to just assume that one set program will give you what your looking for. Don't get discouraged Dean, you're almost there.

 

Alexboy, I have a stage 4 with all the programming goodies. Hit me up at the bbq this weekend. BTW if you let J and m do the tunning dont worry , they cant tune a honda for s#!t. they tuned a buddy of mine's car and it was real low for his set up, so we went to ny to get it tuned and picked up 25 at the wheels over what J and M got.

 

dude...you need a better exhaust...that's a huge bottleneck with all those mods!

 

which RSR exhaust is it? Is it the new Skunk2/RSR exhaust if so it cant be that its N-1 design.

 

The icebox is also for sale with brand new comptech filter for 150 ... the car feels strong but the bottom end feels weak.. I had 310 injectors but the car drove horrid untuned
I am prolly gonna go obd1 with a chipped ecu and try an AEM CAI
The header has got to stay for now (MONEY SHORTAGE) and a better tuner will hopefully get me some better figures

Any suggestions on a vtec crossover to start at i have been using 5700 for about 2 months now

THe RSR is the OLD one


[Modified by alexboy, 6:47 PM 7/25/2002]

 

Ditch the Exhaust
Ditch the Icebox
Ditch the VAFC and JUN ecu

Get a good 63mm or 2.5" Exhaust
Just use the Comptech filter along with your OEM Tube or you DC tube.
Get an OBD1 ECU and get a Hondata setup from Steve (SgT) chipped with a setup close to yours then Drive down there and have him fine tune it.