HELP NEEEEDED FAST
so i was driving my 1989 civic std hatch today on the highway and alll the sudden the engine light comes onand the car looses all power and dies.... so i pull over andnothing it just cranks? fuel pump is not pumping and there is weak spark if any. i tried 2 main relays and 2 distributors, and 2 computers..... and i still dont have any fuel flow. im stumped. what else could it be? i tried pouring straight heet(alll i had) into the intake and it almost tries to start off of that....also the computer doesnt not blink at all..... so idk what should i try or what could it be?
motor is d15 b1
Modified by aptyk88 at 7:48 AM 9/8/2008
motor is d15 b1
Modified by aptyk88 at 7:48 AM 9/8/2008
nope its like the computer isnt even getting power? the engine light just stays on. there is no spark and the fuel pump is not running....... what could it be?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aptyk88 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nope its like the computer isnt even getting power? the engine light just stays on. there is no spark and the fuel pump is not running....... what could it be?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Try this: turn the key to the accessory (II) position and see if the light on the ECU blinks or stays solid (lift up the carpet in the passenger's footwell). If it's solid, you probably need a new ECU.
Try this: turn the key to the accessory (II) position and see if the light on the ECU blinks or stays solid (lift up the carpet in the passenger's footwell). If it's solid, you probably need a new ECU.
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no power to the main relay.... checked it with a meter. ignition switch?
my bro has the same car 90 civic hatch.....and i checked all his main relay wires and his were fine.
Modified by aptyk88 at 7:39 PM 9/9/2008
my bro has the same car 90 civic hatch.....and i checked all his main relay wires and his were fine.
Modified by aptyk88 at 7:39 PM 9/9/2008
your alternator didnt go bad did it? can you check your battery to see if you have something between 12 and 14 volts? was your battery light on before all this happened?
no the battery light didnt go on...... i was on the highway andd was goin 60 mph and the engine light came on and the engine died.....
it does crank im just not getting spark and the fuel pump isnt running......
Modified by aptyk88 at 12:12 PM 9/10/2008
it does crank im just not getting spark and the fuel pump isnt running......
Modified by aptyk88 at 12:12 PM 9/10/2008
alright, well next in the pipeline would be the main relay then. you should test it to see if all the circuits are working. That would explain the fuel pump not running and also the ecu not getting power.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sanimalp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my money is on ignition switch.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm with this guy it would be the first thing i would check.
I'm with this guy it would be the first thing i would check.
alright, here is what i have as far as testing a main relay.
the top pins on the relay, or the side with the clip latch, has pins left to right:
#8 then empty then #4 then #2
the bottom pins have left to right:
#7 then #5 then #3 then #1
you need positive battery voltage to number 4, with negative battery terminal to pin 8. then you need to check continuity between the 5 and 7 pins.
if there is not continuity, you need to replace the main relay or resolder it.
if there IS continuity perform this test:
attach battery positive voltage to terminal 5 and negative battery voltage to terminal 2. Check continuity between terminals 1 and 3.
if there is not continuity, you need to replace the main relay.
if there IS continuity, you need to perform the next test.
Attach positive battery voltage to terminal 3 and negative voltage to terminal 8. check continuity between terminal 5 and terminal 7.
if there is not continuity, replace the relay.
If there is, then your relay is not the problem.
the top pins on the relay, or the side with the clip latch, has pins left to right:
#8 then empty then #4 then #2
the bottom pins have left to right:
#7 then #5 then #3 then #1
you need positive battery voltage to number 4, with negative battery terminal to pin 8. then you need to check continuity between the 5 and 7 pins.
if there is not continuity, you need to replace the main relay or resolder it.
if there IS continuity perform this test:
attach battery positive voltage to terminal 5 and negative battery voltage to terminal 2. Check continuity between terminals 1 and 3.
if there is not continuity, you need to replace the main relay.
if there IS continuity, you need to perform the next test.
Attach positive battery voltage to terminal 3 and negative voltage to terminal 8. check continuity between terminal 5 and terminal 7.
if there is not continuity, replace the relay.
If there is, then your relay is not the problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aptyk88 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thank you sanimalp for all your help. idk how prongs break off connectors while driving?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Corrosion + vibrations / road chaff.
Corrosion + vibrations / road chaff.


