H22a Knocking/ticking noise??
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From: Murfreesboro, Tennessee, United States
Ok, so I just put this motor together about a week ago, and got it in and running. It is a jdm h22a block and head, with type s pistons, and eagle rods. The head is stock, nothing done to it. Stock p28. I started it up, and it didnt make any noise, but now after a few drives, I can feel it in my clutch pedal! Especially when it is fully depressed. When the motor is cold, I can hear it knock very slightly, but when the motor heats up it is really loud. I had someone tell me that the valves weren't adjusted right, so I let it cool down and I adjusted it to where the exhaust .008 would fit, and .010 would not. Intake to where .006 would fit, but .008 would not. I dont know if the valves would need to be adjusted different since I have the type s pistons or what. I plastigaged the main and rod bearings, so I don't think it is the rods, but ya never know. Would the stock p28 ecu have anything to do with it? Something with my clutch/flywheel. Has anyone else ever had any similar problems? Thanks, David
Modified by turbo_d at 8:11 PM 9/6/2008
Modified by turbo_d at 8:11 PM 9/6/2008
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 513
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From: Murfreesboro, Tennessee, United States
also has the manual tensioner swap if that makes any difference. I did a compression test, and it is making 225 across the board.
if you can feel it in your clutch pedal i would think it would be something with the clutch. maybe a bad throwout bearing??? Drain the oil and check for copper in the oil. if its knocking that bad i would think you should see bearing somewhere if its internal. my money is on clutch/throwout bearing.
readjust the valves tighter.
stick the .006 in and tighten the clearance down til you can't move the feeler gauge. THat is .006 clearance. The amount of drag you feel will determine the spec.
since this is a new rebuild, you must give us clearance to which the machine shop put between the pistons and the cylinder walls. Rod clearances? main bearings?
break in procedure?
stick the .006 in and tighten the clearance down til you can't move the feeler gauge. THat is .006 clearance. The amount of drag you feel will determine the spec.
since this is a new rebuild, you must give us clearance to which the machine shop put between the pistons and the cylinder walls. Rod clearances? main bearings?
break in procedure?
check the thrust bearing it keeps the crank from "walking".. I bought a h23 vtec off a dude and he threw this out and the crank ate the block. I did'nt know till i had it in and fired up I could'nt figure out what it was till i droped the pan and found a ate up block and bearings
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