a local guy will sell me his head with crower stage 3 with crower srings and retainers for $375. Im sure its a good deal but for stage 3 isn't it more reliable if i have a built bottem end? he wants 500 if its with valve cover and solenoid.

I just think stage 3 might be a little too aggresive, Im not looking to go turbo or touch pistons, sleeves, etc. I just find this too be a tempting deal. Anything I should look out for or know, just looking for a little orientation.


thanks in advance.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2377827
this is pretty unclear.

I read just about the whole "official camshaft thread" The only ones I could find running stage 3 was mgags7 on h22 and pirate on h23.
Wonder if when they clayed there was clearance issues.

 

BUMP....somebody tell me something

 

i think i would have to pass on those. . . i don't like the crower cams. . . one of my friends had one break.

 

thats what i keep hearing, im thinking of just going with skunk2 stage 1 later on, im not looking for anything too aggresive.
Thanks for the input.

 

you have to meet engine compression requirements for the cams of your choice. To be able to maximize hp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97ludedude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think i would have to pass on those. . . i don't like the crower cams. . . one of my friends had one break.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not worth it man. I am not going to go on one of my Crower rants. After years of this topic here it is:
Crowers are like Domestic cars, they'll do the job but will fail more often.....
Do yourself a favor and buy Skunk2's.

 

From what I have read, the early crower cams had issues. I'm at about 90k on my Stage 2 without issues, and they make GOOD power across the band, not just in VTEC.

 

How about Jun cams, how well do they hold up?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94vtecmn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From what I have read, the early crower cams had issues. I'm at about 90k on my Stage 2 without issues, and they make GOOD power across the band, not just in VTEC.</TD></TR></TABLE>
There are plenty of Domestic owners out there that have had good---great luck with their Chevy/Dodge/Ford too. They aren't breaking now, theyre eating rockers.

Whats the point with Crowers if you can get a better cam for a little more money like Skunk2?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How about Jun cams, how well do they hold up?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im sure if you DUG enough you'd find a break here and there, but nowhere near the failure rate of Crowers. Personally haven't seen an H series JUN breakage post, but IIRC there is a couple B series breaks floating around....and I find it easier to blame INSTALL ERROR with JUNs.
JUN developed their cams for RoadRacing.......those guys use their engines at 100+ times the rate of a Drag Racer......Skunk2 is pretty Honda focued, thus more R&D(great guess).
And to add, I have yet to see ANY impressive Dyno from a Crower cam with an exception of Pirates G....and who knows what a different cam would do as I have no comparison with his FREAKY Motor!

If I had an H23, I would be looking to GUDE/DELTA/CRANE.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NirVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Not worth it man. I am not going to go on one of my Crower rants. After years of this topic here it is:
Crowers are like Domestic cars, they'll do the job but will fail more often.....
Do yourself a favor and buy Skunk2's.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

IMO there is more to it than the cams themselves eating rockers....

its been done with JUN, Crower, and type S as far as i have read which eliminates a manufacturing flaw of the cams since it does it with aftermarket and OE

 

I went with the Crowers because my engine builder has used them for years, and thinks Crower is a very reputable company. He's built hundreds of race motors over the years. Now, my Honda was his first, and I'm by no means an expert.

I would trust NirVTEC's opinion/experience though, he's had his hands in these motors a lot more than I have.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

IMO there is more to it than the cams themselves eating rockers....

its been done with JUN, Crower, and type S as far as i have read which eliminates a manufacturing flaw of the cams since it does it with aftermarket and OE</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think Billy had a USDM OE exh. cam get eaten as well?

 

Anything is possible at this point.....

I just don't see any reason to buy a used inferior piece....Its like buying a used Ford Escort when there are plenty of Hondas and Toyotas out there for just a little bit more money. You guys know me....Anti-Crower for life.
Heres the question: Would you buy them again?





Modified by NirVTEC at 7:23 PM 9/12/2008

 

I just recently opened my engine and my (stock) cams had eaten away at my rocker arms a little bit. I had a bad main seal leak and was running the motor on low oil levels for a while (I would constantly be feeding the car oil to compensate for the leak).

My take from what I have read and from what I know, is that it's a matter of engine lubrication. Some have reported that switching to synthetic oils after engine rebuilds have helped prevent this issue.

Another thing that I've heard (that makes sense to me at least), is that running with stiffer springs can accelerate this issue.

I just installed crower stage 2's with valve train (stiffer springs). I'm going to break in using regular ol' 10W-30, and after about 500-600 miles I'm switching to synthetic. I'll be a sacrificial guinea pig

All in all, I still have not heard/seen a definite answer on this topic.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Akhany &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I just installed crower stage 2's with valve train (stiffer springs). I'm going to break in using regular ol' 10W-30, and after about 500-600 miles I'm switching to synthetic. I'll be a sacrificial guinea pig

All in all, I still have not heard/seen a definite answer on this topic.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Best of luck to you!

 

Go straight to good oil. I wouldn't use anything that's API certified. Torco, Redline, Amsoil, stuff like that would probably be a good idea.

 

This the same valve train and cams I have now, with 85k on them. Now I haven't opened it up and did any sort of inspection, and I haven't dyno'd the car since it was first tuned, but I have been running AmsOil from day one on it. It does use a little in VTEC, based on my foot of course, but seems to run fine. My only suggestion is if you went with the manual tensioner, to get in there every 25k or so and do an adjustment. I went through an OEM belt, without adjustment (My bad) in just about 80k. Might be able to get away with more if you adjusted it regularly.

 

break the motor in on conventional and then switch to synthetic.
we have a crowler cam in our 92 tube chassis camaro. 468 (bored 454) on alcy. 5.80's in the 8th at about 120mph. in domestic applications i don't have a problem w/crowler. i would never use a crowler in an import... yes i heard that they did redesign to help with the breaking issue on the older cams... i just prefer skunk2.

 

stage3 turbo cam, no problems.. i also know of a hot rod car running BC cams,no problems.


Modified by streetracer6rpt at 1:03 PM 9/15/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by streetracer6rpt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stage3 turbo cam, no problems.. i also know of a hot rod car running BC cams,no problems.


Modified by streetracer6rpt at 1:03 PM 9/15/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97ludedude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">break the motor in on conventional and then switch to synthetic.
we have a crowler cam in our 92 tube chassis camaro. 468 (bored 454) on alcy. 5.80's in the 8th at about 120mph. in domestic applications i don't have a problem w/crowler. i would never use a crowler in an import... yes i heard that they did redesign to help with the breaking issue on the older cams... i just prefer skunk2. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Do we see a trend here? Crower Domestic&gt;Crower Import
We drive Imports....../done

 

hot rod, as in the import drag racing class..lolz, both cars see 38- 40psi on crowers, so I think they're fine.. Everything and anything can break

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by streetracer6rpt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hot rod, as in the import drag racing class..lolz, both cars see 38- 40psi on crowers, so I think they're fine.. Everything and anything can break</TD></TR></TABLE>
What works in an 8-9sec pass isn't necessarily going to work well/reliable on the street.
RR'ing testing&gt;Drag testing
Typical Drag Day=1-3 miles ~40-120 seconds--Split Second 130-150mph
Typical RR day=100-150 miles ~2hrs with 110-130mph Top Speeds---HELD

Of course anything can break.......Hondas break, but nowhere near as often as your typical Big3 domesticrap car.

Do we have any insight as to the H22A vs H22A1 vs H22A4 heads? How different are they? I thought I remember reading that newer H22A4 heads are a little different inside. Is this helping/hurting anything?


Modified by NirVTEC at 10:06 AM 9/16/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97ludedude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">break the motor in on conventional and then switch to synthetic.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

My thought exactly.

Synthetic oil is 'too' good of an oil to break engine components in.

And yeah, I do have a manual tensioner. Rather than 20k, I just check/readjust it every oil change. makes not forgetting easier.

 

crower cams are made of chocolate. and like chocolate once it turns to a pulpy mixture when chewed