Do you guys have any tips for replacing a full quarter panel on a 93 hatch? I've done a decent amount of bodywork and put wheel arches on before just never a whole quarter. Im pretty experienced with welding and fabrication just never put a big panel like that on before.. any help would be awesome

 

Unfortunately I can't offer any help on that in particular, I don't know all too much about body work.

However, I have been know to read a "Hot Rod" magazine or two. There's also "Paint & body" magazine. Anyway, the point I'm trying to get at is, I've seen many articles in magazines like that that talk about replacing quarter panels. You might be able to get some tips from somewhere like that.

 

I've done a few...Ohio rust sucks

They are not all that bad just takes some time drilling/patience but for sure worth it in the end. I can post up a few shots if you want that I have of me doing my personal 93'hatch.

First thing to do it take everything off the car that touches the quarter panels...side glass,rear hatch,rear glass,etc. Leave the door on as it will give you a guide as where to line it back up to so you have no gaps or not to low or high. You have to take out the interior panels also. take off the rain gutters on the roof because you have to drill the spot welds out all around the panel. Get a good spot weld drill bit it will save you a lot of time and hassle.

 

yea a few pictures would be great! thanks a lot This was how I repaired the quarter on my other civic (plus welding and blending) With the amount of work I had in it I could have replaced the whole thing..

 

is that butt welded or it is overlapping the stock 1/4 panel? I will get some pics loaded up for you in the next couple days.

 

butt welded

 

yes, ohio rust does suck!!
I bought a 95 integra that spent 90% of it's life there.
The under-rear of this car is ugly and i should have inspected it further before i bought it..

you guys salt your roads or something?

 

Yea they salt the roads in pa too.. I think they add something special to the salt that makes it stick to quarter panels.

 

on purpose to support the auto industry.. ;p
just looked under my car and my subframe welds are half aten away.
friggin' ohio.

 

Gotta love CA, Rust free cars. Thats about the only good thing that can come out of CA. lol

 

yeah, they might come *out* of CA but they won't stay rust free.
at least on the friggin' coast.

 

does anyone have a good how-to link for replacing a quarter panel on an eg?

 

Im needy of the same information, im replacing the molding trim area which got shaved...

 

bump.........

 

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x2

 

this is in no way a detailed process but to summarize and give you an idea,
you can get a TIS/repair manual to guide you... but basically what you'll wanna do is grind off all the seams to reveal all the spotwelds... from there get a drill with a bit of the same size bit and drill them all out. or use a spot weld drill... you're gonna have to cut the sail panel and rocker panel too, rough cut using an air chisel, final cut and removal after...it should all start peeling off after this... wen replacing it... clamp it together.. and you should spot weld between each previous drilled hole... or plug weld the holes back together... butt weld the area you cutt on the sail panel and rocker panel... and you're just about there....

but like i said rough description!

 

Now i'm having a hell of a time finding the panel... I picked up some from keystone panel and they were absolutely junk... They were "handmade" from canada.. Has anyone seen any good deals on a <U>FULL</U> quarter??

 

me and my buddy have to do the same body work on his 95 coupe, his quarter panels are rusted, so i looked on ebay. They sell for about $70 dollars a pair and they are made for hatches, but its says that you can fit them on a coupe by cutting excess metal from the end of it. so check ebay out

 

Im aware that they sell wheel arches on ebay.. I want the whole deal

 

it'd be retarded to get a coupe quarter for a hatch .

avoid extra work, customization and just get the right piece

getting a coupe quarter wouldnt help anything if he's trying to replace the whole quarter on the hatch

 

you think ohio is bad.. Rhode Island gets all the bad weather as well..we got rust buckets for days out here....

 

Straight from honda:

 

^^^ nice info

 

WWW.FIXMYRUST.COM sells the whole quarters.

I am in the process of doing mine as well.

You need a 3/8" spotweld drill bit, a good drill, a grinder, a welder,a pry bar, and patience.

First you need to start by removing the rear glass, rear quarter glass, rain moulding, inner quarter panel trim, speaker, and anything else touching the QP.

Next, you need to hold the new panel to the car and mark where the top of the B and C pillars are going to need to be cut. Measure twice, cut once.

Next, mark all of the spotwelds needing to be drilled out. There will be probably around 50-75 of them ranging from the wheel well to the tail light holes.

Once you have drilled out all the spott welds, cut the line on the pillars you made to match the panels.

Next, pry the panels off with the pry bar. Be careful not to bend anything on the inner panel too much becuase you dont want to have to try to remake a door pillar bar.

Once the panel is off, take the grinder and clean up all of the spotwelds and the outer perimeter of the panel being put on.

Place the panel on the car and make sure to take measurements and close the drivers door and make sure it is all lined up.

Throw a few tack welds to hold the panel into place. This is so that you can recheck all of your gaps.

If all is good, weld every spotweld back up. You will notice on the pillars that they have to be buttwelded. Do not fear this. Just do a tack at a time becuase you do not want to warp the metal.

Once welded, grind the spotwelds clean and apply weld through primer to all of the spot welds (Not the butt welds)

Grind down the butt welds slowly and carefully. It will save you time in the finishing work.

Once the primer on the spot welds is dry and the welds are completely cool, apply seam sealer on the inside perimeter of the panel and on the inside of the wheel wells. Also apply some in the tail light area.

Now comes the fun part.

You have to apply body filler to the seam on the pillar. DO NOT OVER DO IT.

This is a part that will be seen by everyone.

Start off with fiberglass filler. Fine kitty hair.

A first coat of that will guarantee that the body work will last.

Sand that down smooth using 80 grit and 180 grit.

Next use "bondo" or plastic filler.

Light coats as you dont want to have to sand for hours to smooth it out. Also make sure that the metal is down to bare metal when you put the first coat of glass down.

Sand in one direction with 80-180 grit paper.

Once the panel feels smooth and not wavy finish it down with 320 grit.

Apply a sandable primer and a guide coat.

Sand this with 400G wet sand paper. If you see and guide coat you have a low spot. If you see a high amount of fillter coming through, you have a high spot.

Even all of that out with sanding and filling.

Final step if needed of finishing, Use a spot putty for little pinholes and etc.


Once all of the finishing work is done and you are happy withthe result apply a sandable primer and the panel is done.

Next step is getting the car into the booth for a respray.!!


Hopefully this helps!

 

dank thread. thanks for the info

salted roads and lack of taking care of some hondas during winter ftl.