obd1 jdm h22a into 94 integra ls auto trouble please help!!!!
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 259
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From: palm bay, florida, brevard
ok, im going to try to explain situation i swapped a 95 h22a from h-motors into my 94 ls. everythng went smooth except 2 things. but i only need help right now with one of them. a buddy of mine w/ a good amount of knowledge wired up the harness using the origional ls auto engine harness and the jdm h22a harness.
we did NOT use a secondary harness leaving the EGR, secondarys, and knock sensor not hooked up.
but i did hook up vtec and jumped the pressure switch.
i might have a total of 100 miles since the swap and i cant track down the issue. the problem is: at partial throttle or crusing the motor cuts in and out as if i were turning it on and off..... it still runs its just a dramatic difference in power to make it buck. if im idleing its fine other than an ocasional typical IAC going bad. and full throttle its fine, doesnt miss a beat.
my ecu's consist of either a chipped p28 or jdm p13. i origionally hooked up the p13 at startup. threw some codes but only the obviouse problems.
about 20 startups after problem.... (using as a time frame since i havent actually drove alot as stated above.) we were atempting to throw a partial tune using crome with my buddys p72 he ended up having issues. the next day he told me i need to go over the wiring because he thinks the cars wiring burned up his ecu. so i checked. if i remember right the IAC was unpluged, the IAT plug was plugged into the IAC, and the solinoid that no one uses (i frget what its called) is plugged into the IAT.
SO. i corrected the situation. i dont think the wiring blew his p72 because the chipped p28 and the p13 still work the same in the car an they dont have the same destinct burnt smell.
i did some searching and found some other people having the same issue with other motors... unswapped cars. and they suggested that it might be a bad TPS sensor. so i started thinking and well when i got the swap i did get a new tps with it.... in a bag... i just threw it on and didnt calibrate it. so i took the tb completly off and checked the resistance by the pin.... it was way out of wack. couldnt calibrate it because it was to far out of resistance. so i replaced it. double ,and tripple checked it. it was in speck. after driving here and there i intermittantly still have the problem. one buddy told me that i should take off the EGR completely and put a block off plate on it. i havent had a chance to do it.
honda-tech please help if possible, im open to any ideas.... i totally went threw the wiring looking for loose connections and i trust the origional person who wired it because a week later he did another h22 into an eg and it runs perfict...... im lost.. dont even know were to look. i compared all my plugs to the b-series swap in my hatch and the color codes match so im positive all my plugs are correct now.
we did NOT use a secondary harness leaving the EGR, secondarys, and knock sensor not hooked up.
but i did hook up vtec and jumped the pressure switch.
i might have a total of 100 miles since the swap and i cant track down the issue. the problem is: at partial throttle or crusing the motor cuts in and out as if i were turning it on and off..... it still runs its just a dramatic difference in power to make it buck. if im idleing its fine other than an ocasional typical IAC going bad. and full throttle its fine, doesnt miss a beat.
my ecu's consist of either a chipped p28 or jdm p13. i origionally hooked up the p13 at startup. threw some codes but only the obviouse problems.
about 20 startups after problem.... (using as a time frame since i havent actually drove alot as stated above.) we were atempting to throw a partial tune using crome with my buddys p72 he ended up having issues. the next day he told me i need to go over the wiring because he thinks the cars wiring burned up his ecu. so i checked. if i remember right the IAC was unpluged, the IAT plug was plugged into the IAC, and the solinoid that no one uses (i frget what its called) is plugged into the IAT.
SO. i corrected the situation. i dont think the wiring blew his p72 because the chipped p28 and the p13 still work the same in the car an they dont have the same destinct burnt smell.
i did some searching and found some other people having the same issue with other motors... unswapped cars. and they suggested that it might be a bad TPS sensor. so i started thinking and well when i got the swap i did get a new tps with it.... in a bag... i just threw it on and didnt calibrate it. so i took the tb completly off and checked the resistance by the pin.... it was way out of wack. couldnt calibrate it because it was to far out of resistance. so i replaced it. double ,and tripple checked it. it was in speck. after driving here and there i intermittantly still have the problem. one buddy told me that i should take off the EGR completely and put a block off plate on it. i havent had a chance to do it.
honda-tech please help if possible, im open to any ideas.... i totally went threw the wiring looking for loose connections and i trust the origional person who wired it because a week later he did another h22 into an eg and it runs perfict...... im lost.. dont even know were to look. i compared all my plugs to the b-series swap in my hatch and the color codes match so im positive all my plugs are correct now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sled »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, im going to try to explain situation i swapped a 95 h22a from h-motors into my 94 ls. everythng went smooth except 2 things. but i only need help right now with one of them. a buddy of mine w/ a good amount of knowledge wired up the harness using the origional ls auto engine harness and the jdm h22a harness.
we did NOT use a secondary harness leaving the EGR, secondarys, and knock sensor not hooked up.
but i did hook up vtec and jumped the pressure switch.
i might have a total of 100 miles since the swap and i cant track down the issue. the problem is: at partial throttle or crusing the motor cuts in and out as if i were turning it on and off..... it still runs its just a dramatic difference in power to make it buck. if im idleing its fine other than an ocasional typical IAC going bad. and full throttle its fine, doesnt miss a beat.
my ecu's consist of either a chipped p28 or jdm p13. i origionally hooked up the p13 at startup. threw some codes but only the obviouse problems.
about 20 startups after problem.... (using as a time frame since i havent actually drove alot as stated above.) we were atempting to throw a partial tune using crome with my buddys p72 he ended up having issues. the next day he told me i need to go over the wiring because he thinks the cars wiring burned up his ecu. so i checked. if i remember right the IAC was unpluged, the IAT plug was plugged into the IAC, and the solinoid that no one uses (i frget what its called) is plugged into the IAT.
SO. i corrected the situation. i dont think the wiring blew his p72 because the chipped p28 and the p13 still work the same in the car an they dont have the same destinct burnt smell.
i did some searching and found some other people having the same issue with other motors... unswapped cars. and they suggested that it might be a bad TPS sensor. so i started thinking and well when i got the swap i did get a new tps with it.... in a bag... i just threw it on and didnt calibrate it. so i took the tb completly off and checked the resistance by the pin.... it was way out of wack. couldnt calibrate it because it was to far out of resistance. so i replaced it. double ,and tripple checked it. it was in speck. after driving here and there i intermittantly still have the problem. one buddy told me that i should take off the EGR completely and put a block off plate on it. i havent had a chance to do it.
honda-tech please help if possible, im open to any ideas.... i totally went threw the wiring looking for loose connections and i trust the origional person who wired it because a week later he did another h22 into an eg and it runs perfict...... im lost.. dont even know were to look. i compared all my plugs to the b-series swap in my hatch and the color codes match so im positive all my plugs are correct now.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I stopped reading novels in high school
we did NOT use a secondary harness leaving the EGR, secondarys, and knock sensor not hooked up.
but i did hook up vtec and jumped the pressure switch.
i might have a total of 100 miles since the swap and i cant track down the issue. the problem is: at partial throttle or crusing the motor cuts in and out as if i were turning it on and off..... it still runs its just a dramatic difference in power to make it buck. if im idleing its fine other than an ocasional typical IAC going bad. and full throttle its fine, doesnt miss a beat.
my ecu's consist of either a chipped p28 or jdm p13. i origionally hooked up the p13 at startup. threw some codes but only the obviouse problems.
about 20 startups after problem.... (using as a time frame since i havent actually drove alot as stated above.) we were atempting to throw a partial tune using crome with my buddys p72 he ended up having issues. the next day he told me i need to go over the wiring because he thinks the cars wiring burned up his ecu. so i checked. if i remember right the IAC was unpluged, the IAT plug was plugged into the IAC, and the solinoid that no one uses (i frget what its called) is plugged into the IAT.
SO. i corrected the situation. i dont think the wiring blew his p72 because the chipped p28 and the p13 still work the same in the car an they dont have the same destinct burnt smell.
i did some searching and found some other people having the same issue with other motors... unswapped cars. and they suggested that it might be a bad TPS sensor. so i started thinking and well when i got the swap i did get a new tps with it.... in a bag... i just threw it on and didnt calibrate it. so i took the tb completly off and checked the resistance by the pin.... it was way out of wack. couldnt calibrate it because it was to far out of resistance. so i replaced it. double ,and tripple checked it. it was in speck. after driving here and there i intermittantly still have the problem. one buddy told me that i should take off the EGR completely and put a block off plate on it. i havent had a chance to do it.
honda-tech please help if possible, im open to any ideas.... i totally went threw the wiring looking for loose connections and i trust the origional person who wired it because a week later he did another h22 into an eg and it runs perfict...... im lost.. dont even know were to look. i compared all my plugs to the b-series swap in my hatch and the color codes match so im positive all my plugs are correct now.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I stopped reading novels in high school
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
From: palm bay, florida, brevard
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AWD Terror »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I stopped reading novels in high school</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow dick... lol stop waisting my time. its called explaining my problem... how is someone going to help me if i cant explain what its doing..... thanks for the bump
I stopped reading novels in high school</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow dick... lol stop waisting my time. its called explaining my problem... how is someone going to help me if i cant explain what its doing..... thanks for the bump
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sled »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
wow dick... lol stop waisting my time. its called explaining my problem... how is someone going to help me if i cant explain what its doing..... thanks for the bump</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ignore the noob.......hes scraping for post count. Someone will help you out, just be patient.
wow dick... lol stop waisting my time. its called explaining my problem... how is someone going to help me if i cant explain what its doing..... thanks for the bump</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ignore the noob.......hes scraping for post count. Someone will help you out, just be patient.
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Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 259
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From: palm bay, florida, brevard
well, i tested the TPS and its good, resistance and voltage are good. i also blocked off the EGR valve just in case.... i ran my codes again an im throwing a cell for the iac but it idles fine.
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